madkaw

reuse the gaskets until they fall apart--basically. If your careful you can take the covers off many times without issue.

I know it's tough, but hang in there. These are the situations that force me to study and research and relearn the basics. You will be the first to pop in when someone starts a thread on SU problems. !!! Google SU carbs and their operation and critical float adjustment. The more I learn about carbs and fuel injection, the more I realize how good and easy FI is

You need to get this off your list. A wrong setting would be most apparent at higher rpm cruise. If anything I would go rich on the setting-the worse scenerio would be a bit of fuel in the carbs. To low of a level will throw off your mixture at higher load/higher vacuum scenerios. I don't believe adjusting the mixture screws will make up for a poor setting on the floats. I know you have the factory setting in there, but tweeking the floats a couple off MM's will not hurt. What I have witnessed is a car that I rebuilt the carbs on that it would run in all parameters, but not much power top end. It was all about the floats not being set right. Believe it or not I just tweeked the floats without a real measurement-just richened it up a bit. Car made much more power and never overflowed the bowls. Here is what I have NOT done: I have Herchecked fuel pressure from my brand new fuel pump, which was good, but I have not checked volume. OR pressure while the car is being driven. But I ruled that out as if I can rev to 6500 rpm at wide open throttle I am getting fuel. I have NOT checked if the fuel level is right at the top of the jet opening in the carb body, I just assumed the float bowls being properly adjusted was okay.

WOW, a 20 degree timing advance- that would make a difference on any set up. That's like being a tooth off!!

I'm still stuck on float adjustment. The jet needles are being set flush against the piston with the jet collar flush??

I can understand the exhaust causing the popping, but not the loss of acceleration at part throttle. That would be a huge leak that he would hear. Vacuum leak is a possibility but his idle is great? Is the power there at WOT? Do you think your engine is making it's normal power when revving out or is it just running up the rpms with less power?

FSM states #20 weight Mobil oil. It says not to uses #30 weight or higher. I will add that the float dimensions worked for my carbs, but I did wind up richening the float setting for max power. What I am saying is that the engine would rev up, but there wasn't much power at the upper end. You still may need to adjust them in the end. Good to see your making chances that actually effect the engine.

Trans fluid works also.

Hybridz is a better site for this type ? and searching!

I'm at a loss myself. You might wait till your wideband is hooked up at this point. I will be very interested in the outcome of this. I had a similar problem and it turned out to be those damn float bowl hoses. Looked great, felt great, but kinked up. Took a long time to identify the problem.

Kind of hard to tell from pics, but I can't see anything that looks terrible. I would guess that those retainers are not stock and that would lead me to believe that the head has been worked to some extent. If that engine is still on the stand you can rig a piece of steel that uses your flywheel bolts to hold the crank steady. Bolt the steel to the crank and wedge the steel between the engine stand mounts. That way you can do a leak down test. Don't worry about the yellowing on the cam, you just want to worry about the polished finish that actually rides on the rocker. Also for any gouging of the cam surfaces. If your missing a tooth on the cam sprocket, get another one and replace it-cheap, I even have a used one that is like new.You can also mic the cam to verify that it is 'worn", not unless you see damage, it would be hard to visually tell. I could have saved myself a lot of money and time if I had just rebuilt my head on my original, motor instead I just though with 100k miles I needed to rebuild everything. This cost me a lot more money on pistons and bottom end work that in the end probably did nothing for performance compared to the head work. Spending money on that stuff took money away from things I had to have like new shocks and brakes. When I took the engine apart the bores still had the crosshatching marks in the bores with no scoring, but I was sure that 100k was too many miles. Did I do a compression test? NO= Dumb. More work and money= less enjoyment and waiting longer to drive. So, just some things to think about when making your decision. Best of luck

14-15mm

Yes, that is correct. the measurement is just when the float tang touches. You can also hang the float in it's normal position to measure the other way. It's just under an inch from where the needle shuts off the fuel from the lid to the middle of the float

What engine are these pics of?

I'm also looking at your pics and noticing the difference in the floats. Is one dirty or just stained in some way? Were the bowls clean?

How much fuel was in each bowl after removing the lid- were they close to each other? I always like to test operation of the needle and seat by hanging the lids in their normal position and blowing thru the fuel line fitting. While you are blowing air thru the needle and seat , raise the floats slowly and listen for the needle and seat to close the air off smoothly. This will also give you an idea as to what level the fuel shuts off at. You might find that one of your needle and seat assemblies are sticking. I'm not surprised that the needle changed didn't make any difference. Though the SM's are richer, the car still should have run good.

might want to take a minute and rethink this. You have a motor in the car that might not need to be rebuilt. The fact that it doesn't go past 40mph tells you NOTHING! Do a compression test, look at the plugs, pull the dipstick and smell and look. Pull the valve cover off and look inside-what do you see. You might have something that has already been touched up, but right now it's not running good. Seems to be a lot of unknowns to base decisions on. You seemed to have made cost a priority, so I would work with what you have first. You might have some gold covered in grease!!!

E-31 block? What year is your car? It should be a P-30 block and the e-88 might be the correct head for that block. And if it's a early e-88 head it will be almost the same as having an e-31 head. How bad is the engine since you say it needs a rebuild. Bottom ends are very tough, maybe you could just get away with a top-end rebuild. If your looking for a peppy L engine the L24 with an early head will be peppy. The compression will not be that much of a factor if this an original pairing of p-30 and e-88. So go whatever route is cheapest-I think you'll be happy either way.

I'll throw in here again about the SM needles. Running a wideband I have run both types of needles on my MODIFIED L24. The stock needles supply more than enough fuel for my motor. I am running stock needles now and the AFR dip into the 12's WOT and the plugs look beautiful(until the headgasket blew;( ) I believe it is also critical to get the float levels correct in conjunction with the needles. I will also agree above that the changes need to be more drastic to tell if your going in the right direction.

I don't believe the FSM specifies hot or cold check on chain stretch. It would be worth to check while your in there, but it isn't your problem. If it's close, I would bump it up to the #2 notch. I don't see any ill effects, just benefits from advancing your valve timing slightly. Glad to hear about the hoses. Mine were soft too---too soft and they kinked with the movement of the choke.

Stephen, forget about the timing chain-that's not your issue. Now valve adjustment is a possibility. Did you check the float bowl hoses-the ones that supply the fuel to your carbs from the bottom of the float bowls? Don't mean to harp on the hoses, but can't remember if you said that you checked them-because they have been a problem from z therapy. They collapse or kink and cut-off the fuel or part of the fuel to the carbs. It's hard to see -you almost have to go by feel. And verify for me that have NOT changed your float settings yet during this thread. If you have NOT, you need to make that your next adjustment. Oh and happy holidays!!!!!

I was asking 200$ since it is all cleaned up and painted and has all the studs and nuts and stub axles. I might be able to help with shipping since you leave fairly close.

I've got a really quiet r200 that I'm selling- I'm going with a subaru diff. My diff is a 3.54

Usually plug wires give you problems under heavy loading- like climbing a hill in forth gear. As far as cam- more likely out of adjustment than anything . Well you get this figured out you will definitely know your car better The reason I asked what dizzy was to see how much vacuum advance your dizzy adds. At this point during you troubleshooting with the timing I would leave it disconnected.

Stephen, just out of curiousity, what is the model # on your dizzy. Should be engraved somewhere on the side.