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madkaw

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Everything posted by madkaw

  1. madkaw
    That's what I was saying Stephen, these cars can be way different in running characteristics even with the same engine or year. Motormans engine is using a ZX dizzy which has a different curve than yours Stephen. Enough that the two motors would run different. I hope you can compare and find something, but if something is working for you keep going that direction. Stephen, did you check your dizzy cap for cracks?
  2. madkaw
    The videos always amplify the valve noises, so they always sound bad on you tube.
  3. madkaw
    I wouldn't worry about what others are running, just what works well with your engine. All these engines are different and hard to compare. 40 years and many owners and too many swaps and changes makes it hard to compare for BEST performance. Biggest thing to worrry about is detonation. I'm running 38 total, but that would apply to your engine more likely
  4. madkaw
    I checked my carb balance and verified it was good at both idle and 3000 rpm. Next I set the A/F mixture knob to two turns form full lean. Third, I started it up and found the highest rpm at 1.5 turns out form full lean, so I leaned it out a half turn. Sounds like your at 1 turn only-that's probably not enough-I would richen her up. Steve-maybe I shouldn't have bashed the SM needles so much, it probably is not the issue here. I just know that the stock needles are more than ample for the L24. Your car definitely has the pcv system. Just make sure the pcv valve that is attached to your balance tube moves freely and none of your lines are obstructed
  5. madkaw
    Glad to hear that the ignition timing made a change. If it were me and this was helping to fix the problem, then go with it. Put more advance in and don't worry about the vacuum advance. Listen for the knocking and keep advancing to see if it eliminates the your popping. As far as the 47 degree figure, that would be with total timing INCLUDING vacuum advance and you would only see that at light cruise. I would shoot for the high 30's with your light, with the vacuum advance REMOVED, and high enough rpm for the all of your mechanical advance to be in. I will also agree that a slightly out of tune shouldn't cause your problem, but what if your recurved dizzy has a problem that amplifies an out of tune issue. Anyway, advance away and keep an hear out for knock.
  6. madkaw
    Well Jon, you just kind of confirmed everything I sent to Dave in a PM. I mentioned unshrouded based on what i have read from Racer Brown articles-that basically every head shoud be unshrouded for breathing purposes. Also for the fact that if larger valves are possibly installed and if the head needs to be resurfaced that unshrouding won't hurt -just help. Glad you weighed in on the OP theory. Still like to see his results from a mixed batch of engine parts!!! Couple of pics for you Dave
  7. madkaw
    Dave, I'm a little suprised these terms baffle you as much as you have been on this site. Not being critical and also very thankful for all your contributions to the Z world, just suprised . Anyway we have kind of stomped all over this thread and not sure if you should start another for advice. i will PM you
  8. madkaw
    Sounds like my set-up Dave. I would also recommend going with the biggest cam you can go with running FLAT TOP pistons-maybe even bigger then stage 3, but check your clearance, you might need to clearance your pistons. Not sure what dished pistons you would put in there to match your head- unless you had some custom slugs to match the chambers of your n42. Where's the original e-88? Don't forget to notch your piston bores!!!!! and unshroud the heck out of your head. I put my car on the dyno at Zcon and it was 155 HP and torque. Timing was conservative and the SUs were terribly out of balance and both rich and lean. It was 100 degrees outside. I'm thinking around 175 properly tuned- maybe better.
  9. madkaw
    There is some guy on hybridz that was selling e-88 heads for 25$ each and that would be original.
  10. madkaw
    Not sure what your saying here??? Flow out the cam oilers improved(what do you mean by cam oilers?). I would associate cam oilers with the spray bar-but you say you removed it. Oil shot out of the cam holes in my experiment. I was kind of suprised the pressure of the oil coming out. Don't remember how long recovery time was as far as getting oil back up to pressure. I know it took a major drill to do this experiment.
  11. madkaw
    I did enlarge the oil passage. I handed the how to modify book to my engine builder and he followed all the suggestions- including that one. Steve, working off of a I phone so not any good at copying links. I found it by searching 'spray bar'
  12. madkaw
    Search- cam oil investigation
  13. madkaw
    Your probably better off with just the internally oiled. Somewhere in the archives here I have a thread where I experimented using both I couldn't get it to work. The internally oiled cam seemed to rob too much oil from the spray bar and the oil spray didn't even reach the lash pads. I'd like to know how rebello got both to work and proved they both worked
  14. madkaw
    My wifes Forester!!
  15. madkaw
    Steve, I believe he was refering to the cam timing. Deadflo, might want to start your own thread to get help diagnosing your problem.
  16. madkaw
    Really guys, I think you need to cut Ted some courtesy here. Very few posts, but a well thought out question and it's obvious he has done his homework. He was specific in his question and knows Z motors, he didn't ask something dumb like"what do is the timing set at on the L24". He searched!!!! "yawn"-really, I agree with Ted here, not everyone is building race engines, but we are all about learning something different. With your wealth of knowledge John you could have easily been more constructive.
  17. madkaw
    What engine do those rods come from in your proposal?
  18. madkaw
    It sounds like a cool project. There will be the folks who say it's crazy to destroke a l28, but it has been proven that it's not all about displacement. It's more about tuning and building it right. Compression can be maintained if the details of squish are observed. I think it's a harder way to make power as far as a destroked motor, but it makes for interesting read!!!
  19. madkaw
    Thankyou for correcting me Leon.
  20. madkaw
    All these HP are great, but the OP was wanting to make the "club" with his L24. This would be something to really brag about. I'm sticking with my 24 until I've exhausted myself trying to make 200 with it. It's probably going to take a bigger cam and the triples to happen
  21. madkaw
    The e-88 is a good head and has great potential. The 300f is a big cam and you will have to consider other problems like valve to head clearance. I think all original Nissan cams are oiled via the spraybar, so if it's a Schneider cam, then it is internally oiled and probably made off of a virgin core
  22. madkaw
    Boy I would love to see a pic of those combustion chambers!!!!!! The e-88 doesn't get too much attention, but I think the early heads are the ticket for streetable power. IMHO
  23. madkaw
    Please post up your numbers and I wish you luck on your 200hp goal. It is not easily attainable and the butt dyno is very decieveing. I thought my little 2.4 was stout and it turned out 155hp on the dyno. That's good for a 2.4, but no where near the 200 goal. My carbs were out of balance and tune badly, so I know it has more, but 200 would feel amazing. can't imagine I would need a V-8 after that.
  24. madkaw
    Not only put you over 200hp, but you might not have to retard that timing if you get more fuel to the engine. Just curious what exact head is used for your motor Julio.
  25. madkaw
    I think the lesson learned there is that it is the sum of the parts. Throwing triples on a badly tuned engine or not knowing how to tune the carbs will give some bad numbers all day long. The turbo is the easier way to go though!!!!!
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