madkaw

Wow, Rebello is BS now. You really think 212 HP is that far out there. I also disagree that 200hp wouldn't be streetable. Not sure what you mean about "options" on your L28, but I thought it was accepted that hp was was not a bolt on option for these engines, but rather a product of lots of experience with these engines and tuning. I do think the OP doesn't have an idea of what it would take to get 200hp with his L24, so he might need to rethink his stradegy

1/2 pint would do one side of the floor- it goes a long way. The hardest part is not to put it on too heavy. Try and put it on as thin as you can- it flows out really well

Send your engine to Rebello and get the purist mod done . Set you back some serious $$, but it will be done right.

Alignment can effect gas mileage. Whats your timing set at and is your vacuum advance working properly?

Rota RB hyper black-17X8.5 +4 offset, 245/45 general ultima tires 1" lowering springs ST Slight rubbing rear tires on sidewall

Mitchell, have you noticed any difference in your power braking? I am considering a vacuum log for my Mikunis to connect all the ports to increase vacuum for my booster. Also, I have been making my heat sheild myself and noticed the accelerator pump linkage has a long throw and I actually had to punch holes in my sheild to allow for travel. Looking at your sheild i am suprised you have enough clearance for full travel of the pump linkages.

Well my car has been apart for a while now for various things-which most importantly is replacing my head gasket. I am debating whether to pull my motor to attack this rear main seal leak. Today I was looking at some videos I made of my car while driving. The oil pressure guage was visible in a lot of the videos and I noticed the guage was almost always right of center towards the middle of 45-90. So I am running a consistant 60lbs of pressure? I have read that the scale should be 10lbs per 1000rpms. This is not holding true for my car. If I am running 60lbs at 3000rpm, what am I running when I am near 6k? I know these guages are not the best and I am going to hook up a manual guage for when i am back on the road. I guess the question here is if the guage is correct, would this be too much for my seal?? I think I ordered the zx turbo pump when I put this car together and i messed with the pressure springs while experimenting with my spray bar and cam. So maybe I left the high pressure spring in there and i need to check this out. Looks like I need to search and refresh my memory on the springs and what a stock spring looks like.

I believe they have been measured before by different members and they are all the same length. Basically any r180 halfshaft is the same

There are a lot of posts about cleaning out tanks. For now you might want to use a clean chain and some kind of cleaner solvent and swish it around the tank till your arms fall off- The chain will take a lot of the loose rust off. Then you can coat it with some kind of sealer. You might be able to find a radiator shop that will clean it out for you. Take a close look inside your sending unit. Blow out the lines with some air.

Welcome Mike, you are in the right place to learn about Z's. A word of advice-please take time to use proper english in your posts. This is not the place to TEXT your thoughts. It is hard for the members to help you out when we don't understand you. Most folks will not even try to read thru a post like yours. I am not a moderator here, just a fellow poster with some friendly advice.

I have read a LOT of posts describing the SM needles are best for the bigger bore engines- 2.8 and higher

We might be hijacking this thread at this point, so I think we should get back to this issue at hand. I know your wanting this wideband-which is very useful. I will say that for my engine, that has a lot of performance upgrades(still a L24 though) the SM needles are too much for that engine. I have gone back to stock needles and under WOT the SU's provide plenty of fuel with stock jets--VERIFIED with the wideband. If anything, you might be too rich with your set-up. How are the plugs looking? Have you tried running without your vacuum advance hooked up? I bet you could run more intial and final without it installed. I would take it out of the system to make sure it's not messing up and then you can hook it back up. Look at your dizzy cap closely for cracks also!

Retarding the cam timing WILL move the power up in the rpm range. I think we might be overthinking this a bit when we start worrying about cam timing. There are too many basics that are overlooked and mis-diagnosed in these instances. Not saying the OP is not bright enough or anything like that, it is just the way these things turn out. How many posts have we read that the OP says "oops", forgot to check that, or I swore I looked at that.Sometimes I go back over the basics and find a loose wire that I didn't catch the first time.

One last thing. Reach under there and feel the fuel hoses between the float bowls and carbs. Pay special attention for any kinking of the hose.

Have you verified the timing with a light at 3000 or are you just stating what the specs are set . The pertronix was installed after the rebuilt dizzy was installed? Any problems before installing the pertronix ?

So after looking around for while for an air filter system for my Mikunis I have decided to make a cold air intake set-up instead. There seems to be very little choices for CAI for triples-make your own or pay 400$+ for a TMW fiberglass box. Being a cheapskate and a father with bills I have decided to take my time and make my own-with a twist;)--I'll elaborate later. For now, I have been lurking around and seeing what else has been made by my fellow Z'ers. It seems that SS is the material of choice for a heat shield, I guess because it doesn't transmit heat as much as aluminum. For now I have made mine from aluminum, but plan on using a some kind of heat barrier material on top of the aluminum. I have been suprised to see a lot of set-ups that do NOT use any additional material-just the SS shield. IS that enough? For those of you that have used a heat barrier material-did any of you find some double foil sided stuff. Almost everything I have found has a sticky sided and a foil side. The way I understand it the foil side needs to be on the heat side-which doesn't work for my set up. So I have been looking for double sided that I can fasten down. I have also noticed that a lot of heat shields are installed flat against the carbs-no air gap. Am I just too anal, but it seems to me that you would want a air gap to help with heat reduction. I did find out that Mikuni's have a particular situation issue that you have to work around----Accelerator pumps. They have quite the throw on the linkage. I decided to punch holes thru my shield to allow the rods to go thru. I might put material over the holes with room for the linkage afterwards. Anyway, here are some picks of what I have started with. The great part about this project is that most of material was given to me!! The backing plate your looking at is made from a railroad crossing sign that my motherlaw gave me. As a locomotive engineer my motherlaw thought it would be a cool gift to hang in the garage-all I thought was WOW-that's some nice aluminum, what can I make out of that. Well you can see what I decided on. Hell I have enough to make a couple more. That stuff is thick enough to make a pressurized box:cool:

Steve, When you were messing with your floats did you blow thru the float inlet while you moved the float around. To see where your needle and seat are really closing off the fuel you can hang the float lid in it's normal position and put your mouth on the inlet and blow on it. While your blowing air thru the--- -cycle the float up and down to see if your needle and seat are working properly. It should smoothly shut off the flow of air as you shove the float upwards, and then smoothly let air thru as you release the float. Make sure that is all working properly and take note where the air flow cuts off and where the flaot is at. Steve

Should work fine. What to watch for is the exhaust valve size and cylinder wall clearance. Depending on what e-88 head you have you might be taking a step down in performance. The early e88 is the better head. Did you get a price on fixing the e31?

I think you need to do #2 first and run your car with the stock SUs and tune it the best you can. Meanwhile you can find a L28 and go thru it while your driving around with a big smile on your face. Then bolt your fresh head on the L28 and start looking for your triples IMHO

Dialed in my Schneider cam and boy my arms are tired! Also dropped off my subby STI diff-flange to be redrilled to accept my driveshaft- can you say LSD! Squeezed in some time on my Mikuni CAI

Mitchell, Beautiful set-up and congrats. I have set of 40's sitting on a shelf waiting to go on!! I am trying to be patient and doing all my tuning with my SU's, but I truly believe the SU's in stock form do not breathe enough air for a modified air-simple in air-out air physics. Yes SU's can supply plenty of fuel(based on my wideband), but not enough CFM. I would strongly recommend a wideband for realtime readings instead of reading plugs. It will be much easier for you to tune and you might be suprised how rich or lean you really are. I am waiting to finish my cold air box before installing mine. I am trying to concentrate on eliminating the fuel rail next to the valve cover and having cold air into these carbs. Now we need a good in-car video of your car so we can hear them babies sucking air!! Again-nice job.

Reread this thread and the other thread going on right now on the site about the part numbers-they're all there. Order from your local Nissan dealer and pick them up or I have had good results with Courtesy Nissan. They stock a lot of older parts and will ship to your door. You'll need the bushings and two different washers-three separate part #'s

Mike, so your installer is the same? If it is just let me know your paypal and I will send you money so you can ship it to me!! I had just sent off a e-mail to Kevin, to ask to borrow his tool, but be glad to send you postage money and I will definitely send it back when I'm done.

Looks a 1000 times better-great job. Now help get that tool

Do you think Kevin would lend,borrow, sell, that tool??? It would save a lot of time and hassle for me to just use his tool to get the job done. If there is any way you can help make this happen I would appreciate it.