madkaw

Welcome Mike, you are in the right place to learn about Z's. A word of advice-please take time to use proper english in your posts. This is not the place to TEXT your thoughts. It is hard for the members to help you out when we don't understand you. Most folks will not even try to read thru a post like yours. I am not a moderator here, just a fellow poster with some friendly advice.

I have read a LOT of posts describing the SM needles are best for the bigger bore engines- 2.8 and higher

We might be hijacking this thread at this point, so I think we should get back to this issue at hand. I know your wanting this wideband-which is very useful. I will say that for my engine, that has a lot of performance upgrades(still a L24 though) the SM needles are too much for that engine. I have gone back to stock needles and under WOT the SU's provide plenty of fuel with stock jets--VERIFIED with the wideband. If anything, you might be too rich with your set-up. How are the plugs looking? Have you tried running without your vacuum advance hooked up? I bet you could run more intial and final without it installed. I would take it out of the system to make sure it's not messing up and then you can hook it back up. Look at your dizzy cap closely for cracks also!

Retarding the cam timing WILL move the power up in the rpm range. I think we might be overthinking this a bit when we start worrying about cam timing. There are too many basics that are overlooked and mis-diagnosed in these instances. Not saying the OP is not bright enough or anything like that, it is just the way these things turn out. How many posts have we read that the OP says "oops", forgot to check that, or I swore I looked at that.Sometimes I go back over the basics and find a loose wire that I didn't catch the first time.

One last thing. Reach under there and feel the fuel hoses between the float bowls and carbs. Pay special attention for any kinking of the hose.

Have you verified the timing with a light at 3000 or are you just stating what the specs are set . The pertronix was installed after the rebuilt dizzy was installed? Any problems before installing the pertronix ?

So after looking around for while for an air filter system for my Mikunis I have decided to make a cold air intake set-up instead. There seems to be very little choices for CAI for triples-make your own or pay 400$+ for a TMW fiberglass box. Being a cheapskate and a father with bills I have decided to take my time and make my own-with a twist;)--I'll elaborate later. For now, I have been lurking around and seeing what else has been made by my fellow Z'ers. It seems that SS is the material of choice for a heat shield, I guess because it doesn't transmit heat as much as aluminum. For now I have made mine from aluminum, but plan on using a some kind of heat barrier material on top of the aluminum. I have been suprised to see a lot of set-ups that do NOT use any additional material-just the SS shield. IS that enough? For those of you that have used a heat barrier material-did any of you find some double foil sided stuff. Almost everything I have found has a sticky sided and a foil side. The way I understand it the foil side needs to be on the heat side-which doesn't work for my set up. So I have been looking for double sided that I can fasten down. I have also noticed that a lot of heat shields are installed flat against the carbs-no air gap. Am I just too anal, but it seems to me that you would want a air gap to help with heat reduction. I did find out that Mikuni's have a particular situation issue that you have to work around----Accelerator pumps. They have quite the throw on the linkage. I decided to punch holes thru my shield to allow the rods to go thru. I might put material over the holes with room for the linkage afterwards. Anyway, here are some picks of what I have started with. The great part about this project is that most of material was given to me!! The backing plate your looking at is made from a railroad crossing sign that my motherlaw gave me. As a locomotive engineer my motherlaw thought it would be a cool gift to hang in the garage-all I thought was WOW-that's some nice aluminum, what can I make out of that. Well you can see what I decided on. Hell I have enough to make a couple more. That stuff is thick enough to make a pressurized box:cool:

Steve, When you were messing with your floats did you blow thru the float inlet while you moved the float around. To see where your needle and seat are really closing off the fuel you can hang the float lid in it's normal position and put your mouth on the inlet and blow on it. While your blowing air thru the--- -cycle the float up and down to see if your needle and seat are working properly. It should smoothly shut off the flow of air as you shove the float upwards, and then smoothly let air thru as you release the float. Make sure that is all working properly and take note where the air flow cuts off and where the flaot is at. Steve

Should work fine. What to watch for is the exhaust valve size and cylinder wall clearance. Depending on what e-88 head you have you might be taking a step down in performance. The early e88 is the better head. Did you get a price on fixing the e31?

I think you need to do #2 first and run your car with the stock SUs and tune it the best you can. Meanwhile you can find a L28 and go thru it while your driving around with a big smile on your face. Then bolt your fresh head on the L28 and start looking for your triples IMHO

Dialed in my Schneider cam and boy my arms are tired! Also dropped off my subby STI diff-flange to be redrilled to accept my driveshaft- can you say LSD! Squeezed in some time on my Mikuni CAI

Mitchell, Beautiful set-up and congrats. I have set of 40's sitting on a shelf waiting to go on!! I am trying to be patient and doing all my tuning with my SU's, but I truly believe the SU's in stock form do not breathe enough air for a modified air-simple in air-out air physics. Yes SU's can supply plenty of fuel(based on my wideband), but not enough CFM. I would strongly recommend a wideband for realtime readings instead of reading plugs. It will be much easier for you to tune and you might be suprised how rich or lean you really are. I am waiting to finish my cold air box before installing mine. I am trying to concentrate on eliminating the fuel rail next to the valve cover and having cold air into these carbs. Now we need a good in-car video of your car so we can hear them babies sucking air!! Again-nice job.

Reread this thread and the other thread going on right now on the site about the part numbers-they're all there. Order from your local Nissan dealer and pick them up or I have had good results with Courtesy Nissan. They stock a lot of older parts and will ship to your door. You'll need the bushings and two different washers-three separate part #'s

Mike, so your installer is the same? If it is just let me know your paypal and I will send you money so you can ship it to me!! I had just sent off a e-mail to Kevin, to ask to borrow his tool, but be glad to send you postage money and I will definitely send it back when I'm done.

Looks a 1000 times better-great job. Now help get that tool

Do you think Kevin would lend,borrow, sell, that tool??? It would save a lot of time and hassle for me to just use his tool to get the job done. If there is any way you can help make this happen I would appreciate it.

I am so freakin jealous! Two cars I love on the same track running against(sort of) each other. I can't wait to get some track time.

what he said

Thanks for the heads up on the washers. Just called Nissan and straightened things out.

Put your numbers in Mike and they come up under courtesy as stoppers at 10$ each - ouch! Didn't say upper or lower, but I assume they are the same and I will 4'of them

Bushing is 554756-4300, so the numbers are different

It was an error that I removed the bushing shell, so now I will have to finish the deal. I was running urethane before this on my r200 and it wasn't too bad. I think it does have a lot to do with the diff. I would prefer quiet but less work:) Mike that part number looks like the bushing part#. I might need to call courtesy. This STI diff swap is turning into more work than I planned- but doesn't everything

Mike, So the washers also have rubber embedded in them? I'm not sure what I am seeing there. Damn, I wish I hadn't removed the bushing now and went urethane. If you have that part# for the washer I would appreciate it. Looking at your finished product I think I would want the flange to lay flatter, but your right-it probably won't go anywhere. I am thinking of trying a truck repair shop since these type bushings would probably be more common there or a suspension shop that installs suspension bushings. These bushings remind me of the bushings that were installed in my old 1969 chevy c-10 trailing arms-which I made a bushing installer out of some pipe.

I like the thread on hybridz that utilizes the Subaru rack and ps complete. Being an owner of a 96 impreza I am impressed with the steering of it's powered rack. It would be the cheapest alternative- but not the easiest. I have a spare front crossmember and have started my venture in that direction.

Compare notes, but two different situations regarding fuel. Land mizzle isn't running rebuilt carbs! So when you say it doesn't want to rev beyond 4500- what is it doing? Can you be more descriptive ? Does it sputter, miss out, slowly fade, drop off and pick right back up. Be as precise as you can with words