madkaw

Can you elaborate on the "rev at tip in"? So are you saying that car stumbles at initial tip-in? Or just reving it up in the garage. I would think at initial tip-in you would have plenty of fuel in the bowls, it would be prolonged loads that would drain your bowls with an insufficient pump.

Justin, just did a search- thanks for the idea. I had checked my PVC system for excessive pressure, but never crossed my mind about the bypass valve. Of course that would mean that oil has been bypassing my filter-YIKES ! I hope your right though and I won't have to pull the Motor to screw with that rear seal again

Oil pressure relief valve????? I'm curious but also stumped- can you elaborate on this please?

Yes I did

I enjoyed my time driving and tuning on my car this summer, but right now the car is down and out for a while. I've had a pesky oil leak around the rear main that I can seem to resolve. I've change out rear main seal and oil pan gasket with negative results. I think I might have scarred up my crank around the seal trying to get the old one out. I'm getting to the point that I can't work under a car anymore because of buldging discs in my neck---probably caused by too much working underneath my car. Then my head gasket gave out for some unknown reason and I hate the unknown. There is nothing that jumps out at me to why the gasket gave out-which hopefully means that nothing is wrong and I just had bad luck with this gasket. I ordered a new Nismo gasket for 150$ two weeks ago and still haven't seen it yet. I am going to take the head back to the machine shop that did the work on it to check for flatness. Good new looking at the head is that I didn't see anything that looked like damage from detonation. So my list for this winter is getting bigger, but the list has too many items that I am redoing-which sucks. I am going to have to find a helper so i don't over do my neck issues. I told my son to try and find an older high school kid that is a motorhead and wants to make some money over the winter. I figure under direct supervision I can get some help with the hard labor stuff and maybe we can teach each other some stuff. Too bad my son isn't into the cars like me, but that's okay he is a straight A student and an athlete so his time is limited. Well I probably cried enough:cry:--time to come up with a plan.

Very nice-I'm partial to Red z's!! It's hard to tell from pics-- but I am truly impressed with your garage paint job.

I am like Captain, 3 practice trys and making doubles-wow. Seriously though, I would suspect that area first for any problems. I tried doing my own flaring with two different tools and finally gave up because I didn't want my brakes left to 'chance'.Plus some of my lines ran inside the car and didn't want any leaks there. As always Sarah you impress me with your mechanical ability

Without reading the whole thread- you should always do one side at a time so you have an example to go by. You will find that a medium size vise grips are your friend when it comes to working on brakes-'especially them damn springs. Of course there is a special tool for drum brakes too! Becareful attempting to flare brake lines- it is an art to itself and will leak if not done right.

The reasons could be many. Fuel tank dirty. Fuel sending unit rusted and clogged. Float needles not working properly. Collapsed fuel hose. Disconnect your fuel line just before your carbs and turn overthe motor to see if fuel is coming out at a reasonable rate. You need to use the process of elimination to narrow down the causes. Start there then report back!

Oh its an e-31 head. Well I think you might have an issue that was problematic with the e-31 heads. You definetly need to have the head checked out, but might be worth the effort. Becareful though, you might catch that awful 'while i'm at it disease' and put bigger valves and unshroud, ect.............

It would help to know what e-88 head you have. Like Jon said there are 3 different e-88's out there that all have different combustion chambers. The later e-88's aren't that great and I have read of detonation issues using those heads. The earlier versions are similiar to the e-31 and would be a nice head for a higher compression N/A. I stuck with my L24 with the earlier head, but displacement is your friend for HP. Make your choices carefully and I think you would be happy with any L engine engine as long as you use the right combination and tune it well. ight I also suggest you go to Hybridz and check out the FAQ section on heads. There are some extensive threads on heads and their descriptions.

Thats a funny story!

It's repairable, but it will have to be welded and machined. Time to do a rebuild on the head. Looks like you have an early e-88 which would be worth the effort. Or you can find another head in better shape.

I just spent time on the Chump Car series forum and I freakin love it. What a great series and and a great idea. I have been cracking up reading the rules. I think the Z makes a great canidate for this race scenerio. I just told my wife that I have found a race venue that I can compete in-she's thrilled;)

That will be a tough fix. Try and keep the stock valence since aftermarket sucks. The best fix is as mentioned above- drill out spot welds and remove valence , then repair. Or you might remove gas tank and beat it back from the backside. Sorry, but no easy fix there.

I just measured and 2ft per side is what I have.

I guess I don't understand the question.

Google DIY tune for your wideband. I think you need to concentrate on tune before assuming something else is wrong. Ask me how I know this:) I dynoed my Z at Zcon and it showed rich and a power drop at 5300, but for the most part my plugs looked good-I didn't have a wideband at that time so I was left guessing. It turned out that I didn't have my carbs synced properly at 3000rpm and I was pulling off of mostly one carb-great for MPG-lousy for power. My floats were set up to stock specs, but i had to tweak them beyond that point for best AFR and power. I'm not sure i buy into the spill-over theroy. Any fuel in the filter? You said it ran worse when the fuel tank was low-did this tie into when it bogged on right handers? If your fuel rail is set-up in the stock position, I'm not sure I buy into vapor lock either. Pulling the chokes to enrichen fuel that might not be there(floats) will only help diagnose one aspect of a fuel problem. I know you have looked at the tank, but look again, especially your sending unit return line. I had what looked like a brand new unit and it had a bug or something in it that partially blocked the return line and played havoc with me. It happened intermittmently to make it harder to diagnose. The 150$ or so spent on the wideband will be well worth the investment.

I would say that you can not go wrong with the Nissan gasket. Everything else is a ? A 71 will have pretty good compression, which the Nissan gasket might lower a tad, but you probably won't notice it.

Good question! I have been o such quest recently. I know that you don't want a Victor reinz gasket-fiber board junk. The one MSA sells could be a Fel-Pro, which folks have had good luck with and you can order at your local Autozone and save shipping. I doubt the one MSA sells is a Nissan gasket, because obviously you have searched that and found out it is 150$. I guess it's one of those deals that you might be getting what you paid for. I blew my gasket for no obvious reason and it looked to be a decent graphite impregnated gasket-but from where I don't know-but I do know it wasn't a 150$ nissan gasket. I went the expensive route, but then again I have probably 3500$ ++ in my head and motor. There has been talk of this on Hybridz also lately.

Like I said, the year e-88 head makes a difference. I am probably running close to 10:1 (40cc chambers) right now and have no problem running premium and full ignition-BUT-I have done things to the head to minimize detonation. 200 will a bit tough for a L24 without a big cam-but don't be scared of a bigger cam in these engines-they like it! TUNE! TUNE! TUNE! This isn't a bolt on deal

The trick is patience:) You have to turn and tilt and hold your mouth just right and then you will get it- seriously it is a bit tricky, but they should come off. You might find that the old gas has varnished up your needle and seat and causing the floats to do crazy stuff. Don't forget to check for vacuum leaks, could be an old hose has gotten hard over the years and cracked.

I honestly didn't realize this was a lemons car-very cool! My money is still on floats just need to be juiced up-throw out the you measuring tool:) Make sure your getting 14 volts to the battery. Get her to 180 degrees! I would suggest mechanical advance, but you've changed dizzys. Good luck

a lot of work-but one of the first things people notice

Not trying to be a di@khead, but I couldn't imagine not knowing the temperature of my engine(especially aluminum head motor) and intend to race this car. This is basics and you can't properly diagnose other issues without atleast covering the basics. Just about every tuning adjustment specified in any manual- specifies to warm the car to operating temperature.