madkaw

I kind of figured a 3.54, there wasn't too much variance in the r-180. Watching your gear selection it seems your 2nd gear is good for 70, kind of like my 3.54 with my wide ratio t5. I thought the 3.36 was only in the r200

RATIO is what I was looking for-thanks

I'm liking this thread! Steve, what diff are you running?

MSA ceramic coated -unequal length header 6-2 into two 50mm pipes then into crossover pipe back out into two 18" resonators and then onto two 12" magnaflows. All mandrel bends. Engine is the mighty L24 as in my signature.

It might be Arne, and at first it drove me crazy wondering if my new engine was detonating. I am running the shortest magnaflow they sell and it's only 10" long

Thanks for the reply Arne. I was wondering if you could here the fact it was duals. Did you listen to it with speakers on your computer? I have seperate speakers on my stereo and I could here both pipes. My exhaust also has what I call a cackle from the rear that could be thought was valve noise or pinging. I thought some tip resonantors might mellow that out, but you have tips??? Maybe it is a different sound we are comparing.

Exhaust is a one -off design by me. It is twin 50mm pipes with a crossover pipe. I was going to ask Arne if he could decifer the fact that it was two pipes by the sound of the video since I am also running magnaflow mufflers. I had promised many folks that i would post up a video sometime so they could hear a twice pipe set-up. Yes I was waiting for someone to comment on my permanent smile on my face!! You have to have a pretty powerful stereo to overcome all the noises-exhaust,wind,ect..., but it is tolerable for a hot rod. NO REGRETS

Work to the music!!

It don't get better than this-day-off from work and beautiful day for a z ride! Please ignore the 3rd gear grindLOL yo2M0F0DCVI

There is a ton of info on this sites and others for adjusting float levels, but basicaly the lid on the float bowl has to come off and you bend the tab that rides against the needle and seat(like most carbs). Note the level of gas when you take the lis off. The float level is pretty cruical on this carbs for proper running through out the power band.

Float levels? The levels are good enough to maintain cruise, but empty out to quick for acceleration. The car looks fantastic!!!!!!!!

If I ever get back to the dyno I will post up results! I was actually using a small step ladder with the camera mounted to it in the hatch, but it needs some stability improvements. I was hoping the X pipe would have helped the drone issue with these cars, but I don't know if it helped. It is pretty damn loud to start with-especially under load around 2300rpm. I am also running a cheapo MSA header that has unequal lenghts, so I know affects things also. Warning: two glass packs only will be very loud. I also have two magnaflow mufflers and it's still pretty loud Did I mention that it sounds freakin awesome:cool:. Can't wait for them Mikunisssssss

Leon, I am running twice pipes(2" each) from a header. It is cool seeing you do all this data work with the dyno. I have only dynoed my L24 once at Zcon and made 150/150 roughly with badly tuned SU's. I found that out after installing my wideband. I was running lean when I thought I was running reach, so I think the tool is a necessity for fine tuning. I am getting ready to re-dyno my car since I have cleaned up the tune on my SU's. I will be doing kind of the opposite as I will be going for timing parameters -primarily. I can say for a FACT, you will love the sound of the duals on the L engine. I was actually attempting to make an in-car video the other day to share the sound, but it will have to take some tweeking. I can't wait to install my Mikunis and compare dyno sheets. Keep us updated!!!

Honestly I was so pissed I didn't jack it back up to see exactly where it was coming from, but the puddle was in the same place. I am really leaning towards the pcv issue.

Well this sucks, I still have an oil leak. I now must suspect my pcv system. I did notice a slight seapage around my front seal also. I remember reeading one of Tony D's infamous posts about a pcv system that does not properly vent willl pressurize these engines to the point of leaking. I have also noticed that my motor seems more lethargic when under hard acceleration at higher rpms. I can't imagine what the issue would be since everything is fairly rebuilt or new, but i must check it out when i get home. I tried searching pcv on this site and the search acts like it doesn't even recognize the term

Hey Coyze, do you remember how those seals fit. Mine do NOT fit flush with the oil pan surface. They stick out about an 1/16". As far as sealer, the Chilton just shows using sealant around these seals before installing the oil pan gasket--maybe because they do stick out a little?

Just did a quick comparison of seals. I ordered mine from MSA also which were a Nissan seal and they are definitely thicker then what i pulled out. The ones I pulled out were one piece , but noticably thinner. So the fact that you didn't use sealant Cozy might be offset by the fact that the stock seals fit tighter.

I don't want to pull the main bearing, but man I want to make sure. I don't have the right pulller either. My seals looked like genuine Nissan because they were one piece. I know I had sealant on top of the seal like recommended, am I also suppose to have sealant up in the cavity? Man I don't want to do this again.

Time to fix my rear main seal-wish me luck!

I believe the earlier 240s had that choke lever set-up. The real early models actually had two seperate levers-one for each carb. Then they went to one lever , but still had two slots and it was like that on the early automatics--atleast mine did . Enjoy

The car looks great and love the bright colors on these cars. I almost went with a blacked out rim, but chickened out at the last minute. Congrats

Isn't tweeking part of the fun! Can't do that with the stock stuff. Sarah, you might venture on to the DIY Tune site and and look at the FAQs they have. The site is geared for first timers to the the stand alone world and is pretty user friendly. It was a matter of getting used to the terminology in the EFI world and it's components.

Z trains right-don't even bother thinking about sequential. You can do one step at a time. I suggested the O2 sensor because it gives you a lot of info right away and it looks cool to. It's essential for your MS to work also. For me the next stage is timing-or a way to monitor timing for the eventual MS install. Your MS will need some input on engine rotation, then you will have rpm and AFR info to combine. It's a little bit of a learning curve, but SARAH, you seem to have a handle of things from the posts I've read. I'd predict that you will be helping others with their install in no time.

This little thread is an eye opener for me-especially with JM's statements. I have a T-5 in my car and I never took notice of the ratios and what happened to the rpms until now. I had heard guys like Jon say that the T-5 was not a good trans for N/A motors because of the wide ration between 2nd and 3rd. Watching yesterday I noticed the 1500rpm drop between the 2 gears. I have been very happy with the performance of my motor, but this does help explain the lethargic results I got at the 1/4 track. Not that I am wanting a drag car, but I see now the negative results of this trans. I guess if I eventually go TURBO, I will have the right tranny.

Sarah, you might think about installing a wideband and see what's happening with you mixtures. My car got 30mpg going to Zcon at nashville with a 3.7 LSD and the T-5 trans. I didn't have the wideband then. NOW I have the wideband I realized that my car was running very lean, thus the great MPG. I have dialed the motor in much better with the wideband and still get great mileage. I have to measure again, but now with a 3.54 diff I think I am still around 30 running about 15.0afr at cruise. The wideband will also hook up in conjunction with your MS unit, so you need to do that anyway