madkaw

I'd check your float level. Richen it up a bit on the floats and see what that does.

I am no diff expert-by a long shot. And i am not arguing for the sake of arguing, but that's why I asked if they were LSD's. From reading Jon Mortenson's posts here and at HybridZ, the LSD is a 4 pinion diff which makes a huge difference in strength. I was just reading that in his opinion a r200LSD would handle 400hp all day long. To me that is more then enough for a "budget minded' build. Another route might be to install a LSD unit in a diff---if you can trust someone to know what they are doing to install it. Then by cost numbers you might as well have bought a r200lsd---if you can find one.

Those 4 r200's were LSDs?

I'd have to disagree with that statement. From what I have read at Hybrid and other sites , the r200 would handle almost anything the ls 1 would deliver, unless this person was planning a pure drag racing effort. As far as the r180 in the wrx sti, I think 300hp would be handled easily. Anything over 300hp with the Z car, then the owner doesn't have a budget minded car anymore, but needs to invest in top-shelf equipment for every aspect of the car.

....and you can use your stock halfshafts.

If you look at HybridZ site you will see that they have someone that is making stub axles to fit into a subaru STI r180 diff. This would be the wisest way to go, maybe not the cheapest. You will have 1000$ into the project, but it would snap together easier then a lego set and you will have equipment that was made in this decade, and the true tested strength of an STI diff. In fact, I will probably be selling my r200 LSD to go this direction myself.

Well my leak was also the dreaded rear main. When I got the flywheel off I could see oil puddled on the bottom of the seal. What I also noticed was that the inside diameter of the seal was actually cracking-like as in dry rotting. There was cracks all the way around the inner diameter which certainly weakened the seal. I have 3000 miles on this rebuild, so i guess the seal was bad from the get-go. There was no scarring on the crank-until i pryed off the seal and then i knicked up the crank near the end. Fortunetly, it should not be anywhere where the seal rides. Bo, you said you don't bottom the seal out or push it all the way in? It seems to me that the seal was made to be pushed all the way in against the block-that way you know you have it in squarely.

I believe Zed Hed might be on the right track. I own a 81zxt and had similiar fuel pump problems, but it wound up being a clogged return line that would over pressurize the system. I think your problem is different and I have also read that the ground layouts were not the best on these cars. Grounds are very important to this type system that uses ohms readings to regulate the engine. Go back in there and check the cleanisness of your grounds and the tightness also.

I have been a defiant one and have stayed with the L24. I hope that my efforts to properly rebuild and properly tune the L24 would keep with any L28. Of course my decision was also based on the fact that why would I go source a L28 when the L24 is right there. Do I want to swap a motor out to gain 20hp in stock form? If your plan is modifying your engine, the L24 can be an excellent platform. As for me, I plan to modify the L24 with triples, then ITB's, and then turbo charge the ITB's, so it won't be about cubic inches as much as doing it right. I almost look at it as throwing in a V-8, it's easy HP-no doubt. I guess I rather be able to brag about my modified L24.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38680&highlight=battery+cables

So glad to see this thread, but not happy to see you having issues. I am having the same leak I believe on my engine-that has just 3000 miles:mad: The oil is leaking at the rear corner of the block and it doesn't seem to be the oil pan gasket. I tried prying the "shield " back away from the block and it does look slightly wet up around the main. I need to find some more pics of that area since my memory sucks and I am having a hard time picturing what is going on. I guess I have that final excuse for getting a trans jack now. Please take many pics-close and not so close for us wannabee mechanics!

The ideal mixture is 14.7, but can be on either side of that based on driving conditions. Some good info everywhere on this subject, but guys like to see maybe low 13's under W.O.T and atleast 14.7 under cruise for optimum fuel effiencency. Haven't played with mine yet(still in the garage), so I can't share any personal experiences

:classic::)So where's the challenge in that Bo:)

That's why I made my own--see forum "what I did today". It is a bad design for the cardboard box and it doesn't collapse to install-at least the one I had. I used it for a pattern and made one out of 24 guage aluminum, but some galvanized sheet would work great too. I bought a 8$ hinge from Menards and made the box fold up just so I can get it in from the front. Then the inside sides remove with screws. Now I can get to some of my guages and wiring without removing the whole box. If I do need to remove the whole box, it is just a few more screws!

I got tired of fighting that cardboard glovebox liner on my Z, so I made one from aluminum sheet. The purpose was to make one that would come straight out from the front---and---have access panels so I don't have to remove it just to change a bulb on my guages. Turned into an all day project, but what doesn't anymore....

Wideband is for internal combustion engine. It doesn't matter if it is N/A or boosted, carburated or injected.

There are wideband kits that allow 2 sensors running the same time to monitor dual type exhausts. I would think one sensor in your exhaust pipe would get you very close, like on the O.P. 78 which would be injected and have a single exhaust. Mine on the other hand has 2 SU's and dual exhaust that would warrant a dual sensor set-up. I am just going to have 2 bungs--one in each header pipe-- and just swap the sensor over from one side to the other to get them equal.

Reading plugs and fiddling with adjustments to feel the difference, are all guesses ---that will work to an extent. Check out some wideband O2 sensor systems and you take the guessing out. Many Z cars are losing HP because of inproper tune. Most people want to add on performance upgrades before they even get the car in 'perfect' tune------ask me how I know this. Think about spending(wideband O2) 200+$ to ideally tune your car and maybe gain 15-20 hp and then price out some performance mods that will supposedly gain you HP. Build on a well tuned engine and everything you do later will be building on a well-tuned format.

I am installing a wideband O2 sensor and guage in my car. Google 'Innovate' for just one of the vendors selling these. Yes there is a learning curve, and yes it is some money, but you will know exactly what your mixture is doing real time. Just a thought.

I want to reiterate about the air pressure. It takes hardly a trickle of air to do this---so be cautious or you will have new leaks;)

Been there-done that. The pushrod will be too short from the 240 booster in it's original state. The pushrod has a screw on nipple on the end of the pushrod that goes into the MC. There is a longer nipple that i found off of a 73 booster unit that will screw onto the earlier pushrod(it's about an 1/2" longer). If you don't install this you will never get the proper pedal travel. I did this swap for the wildwood brakes and the difference in the 2 rod lengths meant everything as far as the brakes working properly.

thanks

Dates???

I dealt with a raw fuel smell on my car since the resto last year. My case is unique since I am running a none stock fuel tank on my 71. Since i ran true dual exhaust I retrofitted a CJ-5 gas tank in my Z. I utilized the original vent box and all it's hoses on the jeep tank. The raw fuel smell appears on hard left turns where the gas sloshes towards the fuel door. I never saw any indication of leakage anywhere, so I assumed this is a vapor leak-go figure with the Z vent box. I can stick my head under the car around the tank and smell a slight wiff of fuel just sitting there in the garage, but see nothing. I decided if I could slightly pressurize the system i could identify an vapor leak. I decided to use the crankcase vapor line in the engine compartment as a place to pressururize the system. I set up a blow gun with a seperate regulator so I could just barely push air thru the system. WARNING-don't put too much air into this closed system. With the air just trickling thru the system, I could hear the air escaping and I found the leak exactly by spraying down all the lines with some soapy water. The bubbles verified that I had a pin hole in my filler neck(that i made) and fuel vapors were being forced right into the interior. Next i will be making a some kind of one way flapper door inside my filler neck to keep any fuel from sloshing up there in the first place.

Plasic was better too, since if I remember correctly it folded slightly so it was easier to install. I am curently making my own since I am disscusted with the fact that the cardboard box won't go in from the front. I plan on making it so I can screw it together inside the dash instead of having to remove the blower motor to install the cardboard insert. I know it won't be the last time the box will have to come out and I want it to come out easier. We'll see how good my fab skills are!