madkaw

For some, the vacuum advance pulls in too much advance for their modified motor. If you have a 81 dizzy on your 71 , it will pull in an additional 17 degrees on top of your mechanical which might total out around 40+ to 50 degrees(no laziness here, it just doesn't work for my engine). I agree that would be ideal to keep it for mpg and cleaner running engine. As far as the mixture nut effecting what. It really does only effect 0-1/4 throttle opening, but that would effect cruise speeds, so I guess it is how you want to look at it.

That's probably close to my engine as far as compression. I have a stage 2 cam with no overlap and had no problem running 20 initial with premium gas. I am running a 81 dizzy which has 17 degrees mechanical. I will say that I have no proof that my timing is best for power, but I get decent MPG. I also have installed a wideband, but have yet to use it---can't wait to play like you.

I would see how much more advance you can get also. I am running 20 degrees initial and about 36 all in. I'm not sure what dizzy your using, but I would be suprised that your mechanical advance is actually adding in 20 degrees. Either way, I would think --since you are NOT using vacuum advance, then you need to bump up your timing and see what happens then. If you already tried this and your are pinging, then scratch that idea. I'm not sure what compression ratio your combo yeilded.

Just curious of what you have your ignition timing set at with no advance hooked up.

By the way-this is car is for sale now!

17X8.5 +4 wheels with 245/45 tires are not plug and play---ask me how I know:rolleyes:---but they look great! There is a thread somewhere on here or on hybridz that describes what I went thru. Still have rubbing on the rear inside the wheel well that i hope a slight camber change will fix, but flares would be the best solution.

You can call black dragon and ask a technical question about a product and they "will get back to you" with no technical help. You can try and find the original nissan part# and order from the dealer; or ask MSA if their product is a original Nissan part. The biggest disappointment for me with MSA is not the price--but the lack of R&D of the items they sell. example; higher wattage dash bulbs. Not a plug and play, even though they are sold that way. i had to modify the bulds to work, as well as other members on this site. Did anyone at MSA actually due any real world testing with these bulbs. another example; Headers. Just look thru the archives to see all the fitment problems with the headers sold at MSA and also the exhaust systems. MSA are suppose to be the experts on our cars---thus the higher prices,, but I don't find that to be true. So both pros and cons---like any other business I guess

Oh, and the biggest reason for duals is they are WAY-COOL

I ran duals all the way back from a MSA 6-2 header and the collectors were two inches. I wouldn't run anything bigger than that. Two 2" pipes would be about equal to 3" single, which has been run by many with success. The twin 2" pipes run well on my slightly modified motor and sound dreamy.

I'd check your float level. Richen it up a bit on the floats and see what that does.

I am no diff expert-by a long shot. And i am not arguing for the sake of arguing, but that's why I asked if they were LSD's. From reading Jon Mortenson's posts here and at HybridZ, the LSD is a 4 pinion diff which makes a huge difference in strength. I was just reading that in his opinion a r200LSD would handle 400hp all day long. To me that is more then enough for a "budget minded' build. Another route might be to install a LSD unit in a diff---if you can trust someone to know what they are doing to install it. Then by cost numbers you might as well have bought a r200lsd---if you can find one.

Those 4 r200's were LSDs?

I'd have to disagree with that statement. From what I have read at Hybrid and other sites , the r200 would handle almost anything the ls 1 would deliver, unless this person was planning a pure drag racing effort. As far as the r180 in the wrx sti, I think 300hp would be handled easily. Anything over 300hp with the Z car, then the owner doesn't have a budget minded car anymore, but needs to invest in top-shelf equipment for every aspect of the car.

....and you can use your stock halfshafts.

If you look at HybridZ site you will see that they have someone that is making stub axles to fit into a subaru STI r180 diff. This would be the wisest way to go, maybe not the cheapest. You will have 1000$ into the project, but it would snap together easier then a lego set and you will have equipment that was made in this decade, and the true tested strength of an STI diff. In fact, I will probably be selling my r200 LSD to go this direction myself.

Well my leak was also the dreaded rear main. When I got the flywheel off I could see oil puddled on the bottom of the seal. What I also noticed was that the inside diameter of the seal was actually cracking-like as in dry rotting. There was cracks all the way around the inner diameter which certainly weakened the seal. I have 3000 miles on this rebuild, so i guess the seal was bad from the get-go. There was no scarring on the crank-until i pryed off the seal and then i knicked up the crank near the end. Fortunetly, it should not be anywhere where the seal rides. Bo, you said you don't bottom the seal out or push it all the way in? It seems to me that the seal was made to be pushed all the way in against the block-that way you know you have it in squarely.

I believe Zed Hed might be on the right track. I own a 81zxt and had similiar fuel pump problems, but it wound up being a clogged return line that would over pressurize the system. I think your problem is different and I have also read that the ground layouts were not the best on these cars. Grounds are very important to this type system that uses ohms readings to regulate the engine. Go back in there and check the cleanisness of your grounds and the tightness also.

I have been a defiant one and have stayed with the L24. I hope that my efforts to properly rebuild and properly tune the L24 would keep with any L28. Of course my decision was also based on the fact that why would I go source a L28 when the L24 is right there. Do I want to swap a motor out to gain 20hp in stock form? If your plan is modifying your engine, the L24 can be an excellent platform. As for me, I plan to modify the L24 with triples, then ITB's, and then turbo charge the ITB's, so it won't be about cubic inches as much as doing it right. I almost look at it as throwing in a V-8, it's easy HP-no doubt. I guess I rather be able to brag about my modified L24.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38680&highlight=battery+cables

So glad to see this thread, but not happy to see you having issues. I am having the same leak I believe on my engine-that has just 3000 miles:mad: The oil is leaking at the rear corner of the block and it doesn't seem to be the oil pan gasket. I tried prying the "shield " back away from the block and it does look slightly wet up around the main. I need to find some more pics of that area since my memory sucks and I am having a hard time picturing what is going on. I guess I have that final excuse for getting a trans jack now. Please take many pics-close and not so close for us wannabee mechanics!

The ideal mixture is 14.7, but can be on either side of that based on driving conditions. Some good info everywhere on this subject, but guys like to see maybe low 13's under W.O.T and atleast 14.7 under cruise for optimum fuel effiencency. Haven't played with mine yet(still in the garage), so I can't share any personal experiences

:classic::)So where's the challenge in that Bo:)

That's why I made my own--see forum "what I did today". It is a bad design for the cardboard box and it doesn't collapse to install-at least the one I had. I used it for a pattern and made one out of 24 guage aluminum, but some galvanized sheet would work great too. I bought a 8$ hinge from Menards and made the box fold up just so I can get it in from the front. Then the inside sides remove with screws. Now I can get to some of my guages and wiring without removing the whole box. If I do need to remove the whole box, it is just a few more screws!

I got tired of fighting that cardboard glovebox liner on my Z, so I made one from aluminum sheet. The purpose was to make one that would come straight out from the front---and---have access panels so I don't have to remove it just to change a bulb on my guages. Turned into an all day project, but what doesn't anymore....

Wideband is for internal combustion engine. It doesn't matter if it is N/A or boosted, carburated or injected.