madkaw

I want to reiterate about the air pressure. It takes hardly a trickle of air to do this---so be cautious or you will have new leaks;)

Been there-done that. The pushrod will be too short from the 240 booster in it's original state. The pushrod has a screw on nipple on the end of the pushrod that goes into the MC. There is a longer nipple that i found off of a 73 booster unit that will screw onto the earlier pushrod(it's about an 1/2" longer). If you don't install this you will never get the proper pedal travel. I did this swap for the wildwood brakes and the difference in the 2 rod lengths meant everything as far as the brakes working properly.

thanks

Dates???

I dealt with a raw fuel smell on my car since the resto last year. My case is unique since I am running a none stock fuel tank on my 71. Since i ran true dual exhaust I retrofitted a CJ-5 gas tank in my Z. I utilized the original vent box and all it's hoses on the jeep tank. The raw fuel smell appears on hard left turns where the gas sloshes towards the fuel door. I never saw any indication of leakage anywhere, so I assumed this is a vapor leak-go figure with the Z vent box. I can stick my head under the car around the tank and smell a slight wiff of fuel just sitting there in the garage, but see nothing. I decided if I could slightly pressurize the system i could identify an vapor leak. I decided to use the crankcase vapor line in the engine compartment as a place to pressururize the system. I set up a blow gun with a seperate regulator so I could just barely push air thru the system. WARNING-don't put too much air into this closed system. With the air just trickling thru the system, I could hear the air escaping and I found the leak exactly by spraying down all the lines with some soapy water. The bubbles verified that I had a pin hole in my filler neck(that i made) and fuel vapors were being forced right into the interior. Next i will be making a some kind of one way flapper door inside my filler neck to keep any fuel from sloshing up there in the first place.

Plasic was better too, since if I remember correctly it folded slightly so it was easier to install. I am curently making my own since I am disscusted with the fact that the cardboard box won't go in from the front. I plan on making it so I can screw it together inside the dash instead of having to remove the blower motor to install the cardboard insert. I know it won't be the last time the box will have to come out and I want it to come out easier. We'll see how good my fab skills are!

Well it's not the floats if you can remedy the issue by moving the PISTON. Sounds like the jet is not centered and the PISTON needle is getting hung-up. You need to call Bruce and see about getting the jig they use to center the jet in the carb------IMHO:)

Bought the same header with the same warpage, bolted down fine-No Leaks so far with over 3000 miles. Just start from the center and work your way out slowly and it should lay down fine. Checked the torque later on and nothing came loose.

well I figured I put out there my numbers since I have had members ask. I am running 245/45/17's on the above wheels. I have 1" lowering springs all the way around with kyb shocks. I had to trim back the front spoiler a little and the spring perch has to be flattened on the wheel side. You can gain atleast a 1/4" by just flattening the perch right up against the spring(atleast in my case) No rubbing issues on the front so far. The rear rubs, but just barely catches the sidewall of the tire. The tire rubs up inside the wheel well above the fender lip-just in the curve of the rear quarter. I believe 235's would have cleared-but I got greedy. I really wanted ZG flares, so here's my excuse:classic:

Sweet, can't wait to get some Rota's for my daughter's 280zxt. So those are 240sx coilovers dropped how much? The profile is good.

Well after a year of working on this car, when it fit into my schedule, it is about ready for the paint shop. The last hurdle was the passenger fender. There was a pound of bondo in the lower section to fill rust and damage. I was skeptical about patching in a lower, but it seemed to work out pretty well. A few more tac welds and I'll call her done. Now it's time to do some metal prepping and seam sealing to keep the rust at bay for the rest of her life. It was also time to close up shop for a while so I can spend a winter working on my car.

I am wanting to install a fuel pressure guage in my car. I thought it would be as easy as picking out one on the Summit Racing site, but I guess I need to be schooled first. I have noticed that some guages are for OUTSIDE installation only. I want to install this in the clock slot, so it's going to be inside the car. I would like to see some other installations of a fuel pressure guage including where you tie into under the hood. I will be using this on my SU set-up right now and then on my Mikuni's. I want to verify fuel pressure at all times under load----or is that necessary? I have an aftermarket mechanical pump and I question it's ability to supply enough fuel pressure.

The head ports are basically stock, all I did was gasket match for the SU manifold. It was suggested that this manifold was supplied for many applications including the l20, so the runner port was kept smaller. I understand what your saying but I can't believe it would be better to leave that much of a size difference. I am also looking ahead to possibly a blow thru set up, so I would want a good gasket match on the intake to head ports.

I broke out my Mikunis to look them over for the future install on my Z. I wanted to check out jet sizes and such to get my base line for future tweeks. I went thru great trouble to gasket match my SU's to my e88 before install and thought I would do the same for the Mikuni set-up. But WOW, i couldn't believe what I saw when I layed an extra intake gasket against the manifold. Am I missing something here or is this right? That is a huge difference-not sure what to do here guys, I just seem baffled over this. These are 40phhs by the way. Comments please.....

Well it has been some busy Z days around here. I am almost finished with the sheetmetal work done on this car. I was able to haggle with the vendor over the bad rocker attachment points and he refunded me 40$, so crying does help sometimes;) All in all the rocker fits pretty well. The dogleg wasn't bad either, but great inconsistancies between panels. The passenger side had barely enough material and the driver's side had too much! I finished up the hatch area and that panel was a lifesaver. The more I dived into this car I realized it was hit pretty hard in the rear. The rear frame rail behind the valence is 1/2" away from touching the rear valence. I'd say these repairs were done many years ago since everything was brazed together, but good welds though. Also had to weld in an exhaust outlet since the old one was mangled-thank god for donor cars

Okay, checked out a few things today. The barrel mesh filters weren't bad at all, but sprayed them down and reinstalled them. Purchased a new fuel filter, though I would be suprised there is any issue with it. I do have a new tank in this car. I need to install a fuel pressure guage and I guess in line with either fuel bowl would work?? I was also reading the tech stuff in the SU forums here and found it interesting when they talked about different springs for the chamber. My thinking was backwards on the effect of heavy springs or a slower moving piston. Also I was suprised to read about the heavier weight oil in the dashpots and the effect of to light of oil in the dashpots. It seems to be a tricky compromise to slow the piston down in it's upward movement, but to have it fall quickly also. I was using marvel mystery oil, but that seems to light according to the tech article. What type of oil should be used? Too often people use light duty (sewing machine or general purpose) oil in the dash pot assembly. This type of oil does little if anything to impede the upward movement of the piston as the throttle opens. Engine oil can be too viscous (depending on climate). After 2 hours of driving it ends up in the bottom of the piston, the majority of it sucked into the engine. This happens because it is too thick to pass through the damper as the piston falls causing the oil to flow out of the top of the dashpot. I use a mix of 20W-30 to 20W-50 and sewing machine oil. The ratio is three parts engine oil to one part sewing machine oil. When you use the aforementioned oil mix if you attempt to raise the piston when the engine is cold you will find that a lot of force is required to move the piston to its uppermost position. When you release the piston, it will drop to the bridge quickly (less than half a second). Still lot's to learn about these carbs. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks for some ideas guys. The pump is new, but not a nissan and I guess I can go back to the previous post by Walter regarding the pump-time for a fp guage also. I will check out the filters-thanks.

I took my car to ORP here in indy. 20$ to run all night on the quarter mile is a great deal. Well anyway, I was a bit disappointed at my 15.5 second quarter mile. I will say that I suck at launching and I am very inexperienced at the drag strip. The car felt strong off the line, but getting into 3rd gear it seemed to rev in slow motion. It seemed to take forever to run up to 6500, like it was running out of gas or power to power thru the gear. It never missed or anything like that, but no power. My timing was 20 degrees initial with no vacuum advance, and about 36 total. The weather was really cool. I still haven't afforded a wideband so I am just guessing to what my afr's are doing.

Sorry for the mispost-didn't see the key word "if":stupid: I would definetly do the compression test. You might have a valve stuck open because the shim on top of the valve spring is turned sideways. Good thing is that the car is already set-up for any L6 motor, so you should be able to find a decent engine at a reasonable price to plop in!

I'm confused, is it a tired old engine or a rebuilt one? Running on 5 cylinders with a fresh bottom end and using oil. This thread is not making sense. You might want to start over agin from the beginning. Interesting-if not very cool-application of the Z motor in the Healey. The car oughta really go with that Z motor-if you get it running good.

The salesman was explaining about the "secret steel" that comes right out of Indiana to make that hoop, but don't tell anyone about the secret steel-ok:)

Surely you can find some rust free z's out there to cut up! Besides, yours might not be that bad. I was starting to fab up my own structure as shown earlier in the thread and it was coming out pretty decent-and I'm not a body man. Though I do have a state of the art bench vise and 2X4'sLOL

When it comes to working on Z's, I have all kinds of pictures of rust:D These are pics after the removal of the hatch sill.

Well my Tabco rocker didn't quite fit -actually it did fit but the holes to bolt down the fender underneath are over an inch off:mad: So I sent pictures and a nasty gram to Mill Supply where I bought it from and they are dealing with me now. I mean I could redrill and weld back in place the nutplates, but I paid good money for this panel. I let everyone know how this turns out. So I went back-literally to the back of the car again to press on with the rear valence area. I am very fortunate that a member here so my post and brought me a little present the other day. I guess he felt sorry for me seeing all that fab work I had to do. What a nice guy and what a nice panel he brought me. This will make things easier, but this will still be a challenge to splice in. As you can see I have it roughed into place for right now. It is just laying there, but it will look a hell of a lot better then me fabbing everything. This replacement is 98% rust free, so I just need to get it fitted correctly and be done with it. I spent several hours this morning fitting it and now it's too dam hot to do anymore. maybe I can get this knocked out by the time I settle over the rocker panel.

Have plans to go to OPR tuesday night(september 28) to run at the dragstrip with my Z. It's Tuesday night drags from 5:30 on till atleast 9pm. 20$ and you can run allnight, what a better dyno then the 1/4 mile!! I plan to play with timing and mixtures and just have some fun the legal way:D They sell racing fuel from 5 till 7:30 if you want some.Bring a helmet if your Z is going under 14 seconds(loosely enforced I heard). So if you got the time-- come out and play!