madkaw

I will say this, I have a set that Im selling, but I was suprised how decent they looked and fit. When I discovered them on a car, I couldn't tell they were fiberglass at first, then i noticed no rust what so ever, then a closer look I realized they were glass. I wouldn't have any problems using them on a Z, but my car had perfect fenders and were painted already. They do crack, vs. denting, but it would take a lot to crack one. It also depends on whether your more comfortable fixing glass or metal. And yes, they are lighter, but metal fenders are heavy-not really.

I'm looking at the your pictures and trying to figure out the hose routing from your fuel pump-it looks different for some reason, but it's hard to tell in the pic. Are you running a FPR?

What happened to checking the wires by the coil? You said it wouldn't start when you screwed around bundling the wires-I would think that you found your problem there. Did you check for bare wires? The electric fuel pump is probably not the issue-unless that's what you were running on, and your not. I have seen it happen many times where a bare hot wire gets hot and is close enough to metal it would ground out, you need to get on top of your car and look at the wiring with a microscope!

Maybe our butt dyno's are decieving. I had no idea what to expect for #'s since haven't driven a Z forever. I was happy to see that the #'s were bigger then yours-sorry-but not happy to see that I ran out fuel robbing me of HP. With you running way rich it shows that it takes the right tune to get the most HP. Can't wait to use my triples though!

I like doing everything myself when possible, but I would take mine down the road to someone who has a press. That's just one of those jobs that the right equipment or tools makes a huge difference. ADM driveshaft on Washington st. west side of Indy does nice work. Mark is my old neighbor and runs that place, great work-reasonable price.

Well after putting some miles on the new float set-up, I am convinced i am still weezy on the top end. The plugs all look tan with just a liitle carbon at the end of the threads. Basically they look the same as they did before. I swear I made a huge adjustment on the float and was expecting to go the other way(rich), but it didn't. I believe at first I set them at stock specs by inverting and measuring as the float tab just touches the needle-I think 13-15mm. I bet I went to 10mm on the the last adjustment. How far can I go, or should I go until it starts running rich? What other options besides float adjustment do i have with the SM needles?

I think Bruce hit the nail on the head, I'll bet you find a loose lead wire on your dizzy, or a bare wire somewhere . I had this same thing happen on my first Z car. I was stranded on a side of a mountain in PA in the winter(10 degrees) and I hought it was those damn carbs. After breaking the tang that supports the float pin in the float bowl and repairing it will safety wire, and after getting frost bite from being in a parking lot doing all this -I had it towed to a shop. The mechanic there-who really appreciated my resto on my Z- found the problem in minutes. Loose wire on the dizzy:stupid: Unless it's blatantly obvious, I don't blame the carbs anymore. And Rockford ill isn't close to where I go.

That's strange, my second reply is gone too. I asked where you were in Illinois since i travel there often to Salem Illinois. Best advice given is to pull the sparkplugs to start the process of elimination.

Love to help you with all the vast wealth of experience from this site but.... WE NEED MORE INFORMATION

I've ordered everything from summitt. For me it was the smallest 2"resonators I could find for my confined space. They are 12" long, but if you have room go bigger. They are 3" diameter also-again not much room. You might ask some other guys or search resonators for folks who have solved there resonance issues-they might have a good solution. My exhaust is so different that the it might not applie to your situation. There is a difference between glasspacks and resonators-so do some search on those also.

haven't noticed a heat issue at all. Free flowing mandrel bends keep the heat moving .

I will second the por-15 repair. Buy the kit and it will have everything you need. I used a piece of chain because i don't believe marbles would be abrassive enough to loosen the rust particles. It is a pain in the a$$ job but it is well worth it. The por-15 coating works well-but follow the instructions to the letter. Good luck!

Sorry I let this thread go! I started posting on here and Hybrid and I let this thread go by the wayside. I did finish and i am driving my twice piped engine and i couldn't be any happier. It is hard to describe the sound, but a friend said it sounded Ferrari-esk. I had some folks say that the inline 6 would sound funny with duals, but it is simply dreamy to drive. In the end I wound up using 12" resonators and 12" magnaflows to keep the sound under control. By no means is this a quiet exhaust and there is still drone noise between 2200 and 2500 rpm, but I have learned to stay out of that range when feasable. The intention of the crossover pipe was to help eliminate the drone and resonance, but I' not sure if it had any effect. It is also hard to say whether it improve performance-but what a sound! At 3000 and above the sound is beautiful and quiet. At highway cruisin-70mph+ I am in that magic zone and the sound is exotic more then loud. I did wind up using the band clamps at the collectors at the header and at the resonators -so 4 clamps and i can remove the whole mid section of the exhaust-and i have already. Would I change anything-maybe removing the crossover so i could run longer resonators might soften the drone. Also some ansa tips might remove a slight cackle i get at the tips that sound metallic and you swear your hearing valves tapping. I am still tuning on this motor so the end results of all this exhaust work still might show. I dynoed at Zcon at 155hp and torque with my motor running out of gas at5100rpm. Hopefully with some tweeking and this free flowing exhaust I will show some very decent numbers at the next dyno run. Here is a small clip of the exhaust that I believe was complete with resonators at the time. I will try an in car down the highway some time. http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y9/_mad_kaw_/z%20exhaust/?action=view&current=Zcar001.mp4

I went in there and richened up the floats and WOW! Now she revs out fast and strong. not sure if I went to far with the floats, but I still have a very nice idle and mixture screws are about a turn or so out. I will put some miles on it and look at the plugs. The engine used to get weezy at around 5k+, but now she wants to jump right to redline with a vengence. I hope this adjustment stays because i can get used to all this power:classic: Thanks for the advice guys.

I here you Walter about the pump. I think I will try some tweeking on the floats and see how that works out. I should be able to tell by the butt dyno whether I made any changes. It's almost a shame to mess with it because it runs so good right now, but I can't leave all that HP laying around doing nothing-can I? The hardest part is being patient and not throwing those triples on right now. I really want a fair comparison between the two set-ups before I sell one off.

...to meet all of you guys. I was trying to juggle family events and Z events and something had to give. It was nice to put names and faces together and especially fun exchanging war stories with Carl. This was the first show I have ever entered in with a car and I am glad to have made this one. Though the heat sucked some of the fun out of this, the show must go on I guess. Now the car is done(never done really), I can't wait to make some more shows. I might get a little more serious about the A/C going in my car, but you know, I really enjoyed the old sports car feel with the arm out the window at 80mph, maybe I won't even use the a/c when I get it in;) Got to say thanks to the staff that put this show on in the blistering heat.

Walter, I believe I saw close to 28 on the way down, but can't prove that since my odemeter is probably off with my speedo. Average speed on the way down was probably less then on the way back for me-thus less mpg on the way back 26+ I believe at 65 or 70 I would get 30. Diff ratio 3.7 Bruce , I might have been compensating my piston needle being off by adjusting the float level, so maybe I can readjust the floats and try that. I have it idling perfect right now and the mixture seems good, so I have a baseline. The fuel pump is new!

You will definitely have to notch the cylinder walls.And yes both valves are the bigger valves on an early e-88 So there must be something I can do with these SM needles to get more fuel. I would think I could get 200hp with these needles. It was suggested to up my fuel pressure, but i'm running a mechanical pump.

Okay, I believe i have the richness issue resolved on the front carb. pulled the plugs after the 300 mile day and they were clean around the electrode and tan in color. Just a slight darkness at the top of the threads. Now to move on to the leaness at top end and get the rest of the HP this engine has. You can definitely feel the HP falling off going thru the gears. By the way, the mixture screws are sitting about a turn and a half out. Also if I haven't stated, timing with a zx dizzy is about 10 at idle and around 35 total.

Initially I thought I had the richness issue solved when i realized that I wasn't getting the mixture knob turned all the way in -on the rich carb- before backing it out(it was hitting the clamp for one of the hoses on the air bonnet and fooling me that it wouldn't turn in anymore). At that point i also pulled the float covers off and saw a layer of soot lying on the bottom of the bowl-which i cleaned out. I then checked the level of the float and it seemed to be adjusted rich. I pulled the needle and seat assembly apart and checked cleanliniess there. After cleaning I noticed that the needle would stick. took some polishing paper to the edges of the assembly and it got better. On initial start the float bowl flooded, but a couple of taps on the side cured that and it idled fine and I drove it like that and it never flooded again. Since then- as i stated earlier I pulled the piston and checked the needle position-which I believe needed to be pulled out some(but lighting was low so i'm not sure i actually adjusted anything. Like you said Bruce, i will drive it home and see how the plugs look. I guess I need to get one issue solved at a time.

I would think that the SU's would handle my meager HP even in stock form with SM needles. I have a set of triple Mikunis sitting on a shelf, but I want to get the best tune out of the SU's before I put them on-just so I can compare. I checked my plugs today and they were still showing a rich condition on the front carb. The rear three plugs had an ideal color-tan. The richness of the front carb might account for the rich afr's at the lower rpm range. I rechecked the needle setting in the piston and it might have been set in just a bit, so maybe that's my richness issue. I also dialed in the mixture a little and will check the plugs after I get back from my 300 mile run.

Well I took advantage of the dyno while at Zcon this year and I am looking for advice based on my chart. The engine is hardly broke in with 800 miles, but it was running great so I thought I would see some numbers. I am very happy with the numbers based on what little time i got to fine tune. As you can see from the chart I ran lean at about 5200 with my SU's with SM needles. I am also suprised at the richness at the lower rpms since I did so well with my MPG on the way here. I did have a richness problem on the front SU before I left and I'm not sure what exhaust pipe they were reading off of. I thought the HP and torque #'s were good for the 2.4(.40 over) and the stage 2 cam. I believe there was more there based on the chart since the cam should make power up to 6500rpm. I do have the 280 valves in there also. It was suggested that I raise the fuel pressure-but I am running a mechanical pump. What options do i have? I checked float levels before I left and set them to stock specs. From what I read these SU's should handle more hp than this. I was also interested that the afr's fell off sharply at 5100 instead of slowly tapering off. I was happy to see that I my engine put out 20 more HP then the 2.4 before me with triples(he was running way rich)

Well guys I was sweating it for the whole trip, but she made it with flying colors.The last few days were hairy since I was fretting over a noise in the rear, but the noise never got worse or any better during the trip. I also had a SU problem with the front cylinders running rich, so I decided to adjust the float-well that almost became a disaster. It seemed to get worse, but somehow straightened itself out at the last second. I was supposed to join up with the Indy z club and come down with them, but I missed the connection by about 5 minutes. It took me about 75 miles to catch up to them, but I finally did-and I felt better traveling in a group incase something went wrong with the car. The pace was faster then I wanted with an untested car, but my car does like to cruise at highway speed. We must have averaged 75mph, which was about 85mph on my speedo. Good thing about that was I couldn't here that damn diff noise. What was really cool was that I made it all the way on 1 tank of gas. My odometer showed close to 350 miles, which is a little inaccurate because of the speedo being off, but it is pretty close since mapquest showed this to be a 300 mile trip(and I started with about 40 miles on that tank).I didn't fill up to check mileage because I didn't want all that weight, but I must have got +25mpg minimum. That BWt-5 with overdrive is great. I will check the mileage on the trip home. Everyone is great and this is a lot of fun. Going to the track tomorrow-to watch-I'm not ready for prime time yet. My rear tires bottom out in the wheel well so I guess it's ZG time. If I hadn't got greedy with tire size(245/17/45) and went with maybe 235's I might have cleared. You can't hardly see on the tire where it rubbs, but in an autocross style race it might be worse. I hope everyone shares the luck I've had in making it here-and back home. I will post some pictures soon.

Hopefully Todd you will have the same luck i had with this 71 i worked on a year ago that hadn't been running in over 15 years. The car ran good and the compression came up nicely after running for a while-these are great motors. Are you in Bloomington?

I saw that on craigslist-500$ I think someone should call the police. Congrats. If I didn't have a garage full now I would have been interested.