madkaw

Loved the foo fighters but you need some of that beautiful engine noise in the background so we can really feel like we are in the car with you. Thanks for sharing, it will be the incentive I need to get out in the garage today when it's 100 degrees. And toecutter is still one of ,if not , the best looking Z's around!

I am in the same boat as you, I have my car apart, all the glass out and some of the body work done. my car is relatively rust free and no damage. I will be doing a color change which is probably a mute point since it is so far apart. I was estimated 5500$ today for a base coat clear in red. I thought it would be more like 3500$ but I was wrong. The problem is finding a shop willing to take on a job like this. This guy said his shop was slow so he could squeeze me in right now. Most collision shops don't want to deal with this kind of work. I know the 5500$ job would look really good because i know the guy but man that hurts. That price was based on preprimer body work-atleast 12 hours. Then high build primer and blocked--twice. Then a special clear coat. he knows i want close to show paint. Godd luck

I agree that the white letters need to be brite white to look right. By the way Kinfish I am looking for a cap for these wheels. The cap has PM on it and I am only missing one.

Just wondering what you guys thought of the look of a Z with raised white letters on tires . I had them on my silver 71 with aluminum mags and I thought it looked great. Maybe the look is just dated, but so am I:).

I am fixing up a suspension on a 71 with 85k miles. The car obviously sat around alot. How would I know if the springs were needing replaced? Is there a way to measure the spring rate or should I just replace them? This car will be a summer car and all other pieces of the suspension will be restored stock. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I revived this old thread for Jim's sake. How time flies since he was looking for someone to work on his car. Well there was good news for Jim today. http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x223/stfinnerty/?action=view&current=ff7bd89a.flv

I remember with my car that if I filled up or added a bunch of avgas to my tank it seemed to run better as far as the valves not sticking. Is that just a coincidence or is there something to all that lead in the fuel? Will, what kind of detergent for the oil?

I had a little scare today working on Jim Derks car. Jim has never seen his car run and the car hasn't been registered in almost 20 years. The car needs lots of work but a very SOLID car. Of course Jim and i want to see it run first and foremost and that is what I am concentrating on. I took out the gas tank and cleaned it and amazingly it is in excellent shape. I pulled the exhaust and intake off to get at the exhaust manifold collector bolts. I am full steam ahead on getting this car running again and it dawns on me, I should do a compression test. We know nothing about this motor except it has 85k original miles. So i break out my handy compression tester and first cyl. is 120-not bad. I get to #2 and it's 0- sh#*. #3 cyl. is 140, I get to #4 and it's 0. At this point I thought i should give Jim the bad news. Then i remembered what happened to my 71 . I looked at the valves closely and sure enough.I reset the lash pads and compression was back Is there any remedy for this besides rebuilding the head? Is this just a trait of the e-88 head? Is it the fact of going from leaded to unleaded gas?

I ordered my plugs( 9 of them) from the Nissan dealer and they were 2.42$ a piece. They only had the one part # 77700-89914 and that was for the 1" plugs.

I will scan the ARA installation instructions and put them in the appropiate forum so folks can have something to reference if they still have that system.

I recently took on another project helping out a fellow member Jim Derk. He was looking for someone to help get his car going since he can't find the time. He told me about his time capsule that had not been registered for about 20 years. He brought the car up to my house on the 4th of july. His 8/71 was built a month before mine#41000. After Jim left I started to take a long look at was ahead of me. There was a lot of work but a good solid virtually rust free car with only 85,000 miles original. Looking in every space I investigated the paperwork. The car had the original warranty book with the Datsun warranty card and installation instructions for the A.RA. AC and some other interesting artifacts. I am posting some pics of jims car and paperwork incase some folks would be interested. I am eager to hear Jim's car run for the first time in many years so i better with it.

Thanks Matt, but is there an advantage to using these over the stock rubber plugs? Are they readily available? Plus there is the problem of the different size holes .

Mat, i am not familiar with what you are refering too. Sounds like these rubber plugs are going to be a small research project. (like everything else)

I found some posts on floor plugs but can't seem to find parts ### for them. I didn't see them in the MSA catalog either. I was actually amazed on how little info there was on those boogers. So anyone got some part#####'s thanks in advance

Jon, According to the thread you referenced me to the copper spacer goes on top of the bearing ,under the companion flange-not under the nut. I really appreciate the reference though, it answers why it was there and where it should be. I still worry about the end play since I didn't check what it was before i did the job. I need to mount a wheel on there and try to find bearing play I guess.

I revived this thread because it had some good pics and tutorial for replacing the rear bearings. My set up on my s-30 was different in that I had a copper shim washer that went between the companion flange and the inner bearing. I had one on both sides. After installing the bearings and installing the nuts(not quite the 200ft pds yet,which might be the problem), I have about .008 end paly at the housing. The play is when I pull and push directly on the the wheel flange. Is this too much? Will the additional torque take out a few thousands. I torqued the nut as hard as i could with a 1/2" drive but I bet I am still 50+ pounds short of 200.

Well I can't sleep tonight thinking of all the things I am going to try to do to my Z on vacation. The harsh reality is that it I will probably only get half of them done. I've got to get this car done so I can get some sleep:sleepy: And i am going to need a vacation after my vacation:cross-eye

I've thought of this too, but my circumstance is unique as you can see. If I can find some glasspacks shorter then 10" I could make if work along my diff but they would have to be skinny. The two in the back are 12", and i could maybe fit some short Borla's if the glasspacks are too loud. I am hoping my crossover will help resonate noise.

So I would get these from a locksmith I guess???