madkaw

I haven't tried this method on the moustache bar but i will be soon. I didn't like burning the bushings out because of the smell and the fire hazard, but I know there are some pyro freaks out there. Plus the clean up is easy. I see by your signature you are an expert on bushing removal:)

I had to do this job this past week so i thought I would post some pics. I had found threads on -how to- on removing the outer bushings but not to many pics. You know pics say a thousand words so I will post some. I also came across a better way (for me anyway) to remove that tough rubber of the old bushings. I took a 1" hole saw and it fits over the inner part of the bushing perfectly to use as a guide.It also takes out most of the rubber from the outer shell which helps you see what your doing better when you start cutting. The hole saw rips thru the rubber in 30 seconds and no burning rubber.A side note: I would highly recommend leaving the inner bushing bolts installed while you are working on the control arm. The reason being, is if the control arm -somehow - slips out of the vise, it will not fall on the floor and possibly damage the threads on the outer bushing. The outer bushing shell is just hard careful work. I would NOT recommend any power tools(i.e. sawzall) to cut the bushing shell-too much chance of cutting too much!! Take a file or sander and clean off the edge of the bushing so you will see accurately the cut you are making.This would be a good time to spray some penetrant on the bushing to help it slide off easier later. I like to make atleast 2 cuts if not three to really weaken the bushing. Then I work the area between the cuts and start peeling back the bushing until it finally gives way. I hope this helps out someone with a job that can be very frustrating. s __________________ Steve, 9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , 3.54 r200(presently)

Thanks for the replies gentlemen. I posted and had to run off to work again so I didn't reply right away,sorry. I definetly noticed the taller front passenger spring and I do have mic so I will check to make sure I get them on correctly. Even with worn shocks (I believe original muhollands) the car didn't look like it sagged at all. With 85k miles , I'm going to stay with the originals to save some bucks and after I get it back together I will reassess the situation. If the springs look or feel bad I will replace then. thanks again

I am redoing the suspension on a 71 and I am keeping the original springs. The car has 85k original miles and the springs aren't even rusty. When i took them off I examined them for differences but couldn't see any difference from front to back or side to side. If anything, the passenger front looked maybe an 1/2" longer . Were the spring rates and heights all the same? Or should I be looking for a heavier coil spring on the rear springs? I have searched but haven't found much on the original springs.

I have the original ara manual but it is not very helpful

So if it is the input bearing is there a easy fix or is better to just throw in a different tranny? Is there a way to check this when the tranny is out of the car? So this a common trait for the 4 speeds? Will it eventually get worst or should I not sweat it?

I have been doing the search and I am still not sure. I ma working on member Jim Derks car and haven't driven but 1 mile. Hell, it just started for the first time in 10 years. Anyway, there is a whirling clutchtype noise coming when car is idling in neutral and stops as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed. I have read of 2 possibilities. First the throw out bearing, the car has 85k original and probably has original clutch--just replace and be done with it. I have also read it can be the input shaft. Is there a way to check this when I have the tranny out. I know very little about trannies and would like to diagnose this so i know whether to replace his tranny at the same time. I hate to post and leave but i need to go to work, any input would be great.I'm sorry can't tell you more except that the clutch seemed to work fine what little i drove it. Too hard to tell if there was any other noises since the cars suspension is shot and making it's own noises. By the way, after 10 years of sitting, the motor sounds great and the smoke is slowly disappearing out the back, even with the little i have run the motor. Can't wwait to get some miles on her and do a compression check.

Hey Beandip, I am going to be doing the old spindle pull here soon. Can you send me the file that shows how to make the puller. If it looks to hard maybe I will borrow yours. Thanks Steve sfinnerty@indy.rr.com

Can anyone enlighten me on these pictured caps. I need one to make a set and I would like to know what the PS stands for. thanks

Loved the foo fighters but you need some of that beautiful engine noise in the background so we can really feel like we are in the car with you. Thanks for sharing, it will be the incentive I need to get out in the garage today when it's 100 degrees. And toecutter is still one of ,if not , the best looking Z's around!

I am in the same boat as you, I have my car apart, all the glass out and some of the body work done. my car is relatively rust free and no damage. I will be doing a color change which is probably a mute point since it is so far apart. I was estimated 5500$ today for a base coat clear in red. I thought it would be more like 3500$ but I was wrong. The problem is finding a shop willing to take on a job like this. This guy said his shop was slow so he could squeeze me in right now. Most collision shops don't want to deal with this kind of work. I know the 5500$ job would look really good because i know the guy but man that hurts. That price was based on preprimer body work-atleast 12 hours. Then high build primer and blocked--twice. Then a special clear coat. he knows i want close to show paint. Godd luck

I agree that the white letters need to be brite white to look right. By the way Kinfish I am looking for a cap for these wheels. The cap has PM on it and I am only missing one.

Just wondering what you guys thought of the look of a Z with raised white letters on tires . I had them on my silver 71 with aluminum mags and I thought it looked great. Maybe the look is just dated, but so am I:).

I am fixing up a suspension on a 71 with 85k miles. The car obviously sat around alot. How would I know if the springs were needing replaced? Is there a way to measure the spring rate or should I just replace them? This car will be a summer car and all other pieces of the suspension will be restored stock. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I revived this old thread for Jim's sake. How time flies since he was looking for someone to work on his car. Well there was good news for Jim today. http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x223/stfinnerty/?action=view&current=ff7bd89a.flv

I remember with my car that if I filled up or added a bunch of avgas to my tank it seemed to run better as far as the valves not sticking. Is that just a coincidence or is there something to all that lead in the fuel? Will, what kind of detergent for the oil?

I had a little scare today working on Jim Derks car. Jim has never seen his car run and the car hasn't been registered in almost 20 years. The car needs lots of work but a very SOLID car. Of course Jim and i want to see it run first and foremost and that is what I am concentrating on. I took out the gas tank and cleaned it and amazingly it is in excellent shape. I pulled the exhaust and intake off to get at the exhaust manifold collector bolts. I am full steam ahead on getting this car running again and it dawns on me, I should do a compression test. We know nothing about this motor except it has 85k original miles. So i break out my handy compression tester and first cyl. is 120-not bad. I get to #2 and it's 0- sh#*. #3 cyl. is 140, I get to #4 and it's 0. At this point I thought i should give Jim the bad news. Then i remembered what happened to my 71 . I looked at the valves closely and sure enough.I reset the lash pads and compression was back Is there any remedy for this besides rebuilding the head? Is this just a trait of the e-88 head? Is it the fact of going from leaded to unleaded gas?

I ordered my plugs( 9 of them) from the Nissan dealer and they were 2.42$ a piece. They only had the one part # 77700-89914 and that was for the 1" plugs.

I will scan the ARA installation instructions and put them in the appropiate forum so folks can have something to reference if they still have that system.