madkaw

Piper, your still going to run the spray bar with the internally oiled cam? I am building my e-88 the same way with the bigger valves and some porting work and i plan to still use the spray bar too.

Can someone tell me what they paid for their "cheapy" analyzer and where they sourced it from. Something like jmortesen was talking about sounds good.Everytime I look I seem to come up with these 1500$ units. I would like to tune my su's as accuretly as possible since i am putting so much into this motor but also do it myself.

after reading this I really want to get an analyzer myself http://www.triumphclub.co.nz/su_carbs.html But I wandered for tuning the su's if it would be better to find a 4 gas analyzer for more accurate testing across the complete power band.

Glad to hear you kept her. The reason I even got in on this thread was when I first started on this site I was going thru the pics of cars and fell in love with yours. I had some ideas of what I wanted to do and then i saw yours and WOW. I wanted to shave the rear bumper, and I love the subtle rear flares with the big meats, and RED paint. I had a red 71 and sold when I was young and didn't realize what a unique, beautiful car these are. I have another 71 now and will never sell. Its definitely a personal decision and I think you will be happy keeping it. Either way I had to say how much I like that car, please post more pics when you can steve

That's Weird!

I have one in my back yard right now you can have, i cut it out and it is perfect and I have no use for it. It is off a 240z if that works for you. Let me know. steve

I was in the same boat and needed a front core support for my 240z. The folks at z car source were really friendly and very reasonable. They sold me the core support and shipped for 130$(to indianapolis). It was rust free and straight except there packaging sucked and I let them know becuase it caused some damage( very fixable).I would definitely buy from them again!

so I guess the e-88 manifold is to match up with the emission carbs?I have heard the guys mention the prefered intake is the 36 but I don't see much of a difference.

CAn someone tell me the difference between the 3 and 4 screw SU's(besides the obvious)?I noticed a small chamber area on the bottom of the carb with passages from the intake, is this for coolant? Is there any difference in performance?Also the 3 screw carbs came attached to a e-88 intake, how does that compare to the e-36 intake?I bought the 3 screws off of e-bay and they are like new but I want to make sure I put together the best performing package for my car. thanks for any info

I haven't had any thing that bad but I am waiting. I bought a headlight bezel the other week that had "surface" rust. When I got it it had HOLES in it. Anyway it turned out that this lady was selling it for someone else and she didn't know so she gave me my money back.I had real good luck parting out a 280zxt on ebay also, mostly the buyers were good to deal with and paid on time.

I got to say that I bought a pair of NEW SU's off of ebay the other day and I am hoping for no suprises since i won them at 225$. The gut was kinda of mad that they went so low but I 've been there so i know what he's feelin.I'm like a dog with his tail wagging ready to meet the UPS man

I bought a set of SU's from this guy that were supposedly ready for assembly. The pics looked great but when I got them there was carbon goo still in the piston anf body. Parts were missing--- like--- the whole center shaft. I complained and he never responded so I negatived his arse. He did give me my money back though when I removed my feedback. Be careful!!

Putting out some feelers on who might be interested in a 76' 280 motor-fuel injected with 80k miles . I live in the indianapolis ind. area , and I am thinking of buying a parts car. It supposedly has a good motor, but I am wanting the rear suspension and drive line components.I'm not looking to make any money on the engine but to help pay for the car and to get it out of the garage quickly to save my marriage :cheeky: Please PM me if interested, hopefully by this weekend I will know how much I will have to pay for car and give a price on the motor.I will probably leave motor in car so buyer can hear run!!Sorry I didn't use classifieds but just putting out feelers for now

I hope the bars help since I just bought some carbon fiber ones from ebay. From what i read they help stiffen the chassis but don't harshen the ride which sounds great to me

I need to get out more to study these cars, not to many z events in Indianapolis. Thanks for the info, didn't realize the evaporator was moved towards the center which makes more sense for the left mount

it seems to me that the left side would get pretty crowded compared to a right side mount system. There is lots of room above the alternator especially if you eliminate the mech fuel pump.Plus the lines are a straight shot from the right side.

Gee Lance, the problem with answering these kind of questions is that I realize how inferior my memory is. I think it will come out without meesin with the u-joint.I took apart a parts car a year and half ago and it might as well been 10 years. Maybe someone with brain cells left will chime in. steve

I would use the old york compressor if I could modify bracket to change pulley or make a lighter bracket, that bracket is a monster.I also wonder about the control, can you adapt a newer controller to operate the compressor? The one in my car was toast.I never even had a belt on my system but I know it had an idler pulley, does the newer ones mounted lower left use an idler pulley?

Steve ,I'm in the same boat. I'm looking at the york system on my shelf and not sure what to do. I am pretty sure I want a/c in the future but don't want to use that third pulley on my balancer.I had my balancer rebuilt and is being balanced with the crank assembly so I don't want to BOLT a extra weight on it that could come off on a performance minded motor.Is there anyone made the second pulley work for the a/c?What about MSA units, do they use 2nd or 3rd pulley.I'm scratching my memory(my engine been apart for over a year) but the 2nd pulley isn't being used(no smog pump).Are the york assemblies rebuildable? steve

I can't remember where I read it but if you went atleast .10 over on the bore then you should be okay if you have 280 valves.But please verify that because I 'm not a machinist.

This a fit problem with the fiberglass. Again I have to say that the fit wasn't bad but the templates for drilling mounting points will get you in trouble. I asked MSA if they had any other complaints and they said no with the new vendor. A sale person took one home and mounted it up and said it fit fine. But that it hard to believe considering the difference in the mounting between the 2 that I tried.

I wasn't so much pointing out the problem with the spoiler as much as the fact the template they give with the spoilers. They should give a disclaimer about the fact it might not be accurate for your car ;or something.And like I said the second spoiler wasn't EVEN close to the fit of the first one. I just taped their template on the car centered and then grinded some mounting hardware down to a point so when i pressed the spoiler down on the cardboard centered, it left two marks on the cardboard to drill my holes. Good luck

Just wanted to put out a heads up for anyone wanting to buy a BRE rear spoiler for their Z. I ordered one from MSA and it came with a mounting template made from cardboard for drilling the mounting holes. They are not accurate; atleast on mine they were an inch off. I fortunetly didn't trust them and came up with my own method off marking the holes to be drilled.My spoiler also didn't sit flush on my car and had them send me another spoiler. When I mounted it in the same holes I drilled from the other spoiler it sat completely ****-eyed on the car.That tells me that they are not all exactly the same even though the template is.I have to say that I had some previous body work that affected the flush mount problem and MSA did everything to work for a solution. They said they are looking into this with the vendor. Hopefully some helpful info for someone

Okay, i found my borg warner 5 speed and r200 for my 71. From what i read I have to have half shafts from a r200 set-up ? They are different lengths on r200 vs. the same length on the r180? I also read that the driveshaft will need to be shortened because of the bw trans is longer. All these parts came off of a 1982zxt for reference. I also noticed that the bell housing on the bw trans had 2 support legs that bolted to the block on thezxt. Is this gonna be problem running without these?? Looking for professors in the school of hard knocks to teach me . steve