madkaw

Gee Lance, the problem with answering these kind of questions is that I realize how inferior my memory is. I think it will come out without meesin with the u-joint.I took apart a parts car a year and half ago and it might as well been 10 years. Maybe someone with brain cells left will chime in. steve

I would use the old york compressor if I could modify bracket to change pulley or make a lighter bracket, that bracket is a monster.I also wonder about the control, can you adapt a newer controller to operate the compressor? The one in my car was toast.I never even had a belt on my system but I know it had an idler pulley, does the newer ones mounted lower left use an idler pulley?

Steve ,I'm in the same boat. I'm looking at the york system on my shelf and not sure what to do. I am pretty sure I want a/c in the future but don't want to use that third pulley on my balancer.I had my balancer rebuilt and is being balanced with the crank assembly so I don't want to BOLT a extra weight on it that could come off on a performance minded motor.Is there anyone made the second pulley work for the a/c?What about MSA units, do they use 2nd or 3rd pulley.I'm scratching my memory(my engine been apart for over a year) but the 2nd pulley isn't being used(no smog pump).Are the york assemblies rebuildable? steve

I can't remember where I read it but if you went atleast .10 over on the bore then you should be okay if you have 280 valves.But please verify that because I 'm not a machinist.

This a fit problem with the fiberglass. Again I have to say that the fit wasn't bad but the templates for drilling mounting points will get you in trouble. I asked MSA if they had any other complaints and they said no with the new vendor. A sale person took one home and mounted it up and said it fit fine. But that it hard to believe considering the difference in the mounting between the 2 that I tried.

I wasn't so much pointing out the problem with the spoiler as much as the fact the template they give with the spoilers. They should give a disclaimer about the fact it might not be accurate for your car ;or something.And like I said the second spoiler wasn't EVEN close to the fit of the first one. I just taped their template on the car centered and then grinded some mounting hardware down to a point so when i pressed the spoiler down on the cardboard centered, it left two marks on the cardboard to drill my holes. Good luck

Just wanted to put out a heads up for anyone wanting to buy a BRE rear spoiler for their Z. I ordered one from MSA and it came with a mounting template made from cardboard for drilling the mounting holes. They are not accurate; atleast on mine they were an inch off. I fortunetly didn't trust them and came up with my own method off marking the holes to be drilled.My spoiler also didn't sit flush on my car and had them send me another spoiler. When I mounted it in the same holes I drilled from the other spoiler it sat completely ****-eyed on the car.That tells me that they are not all exactly the same even though the template is.I have to say that I had some previous body work that affected the flush mount problem and MSA did everything to work for a solution. They said they are looking into this with the vendor. Hopefully some helpful info for someone

Okay, i found my borg warner 5 speed and r200 for my 71. From what i read I have to have half shafts from a r200 set-up ? They are different lengths on r200 vs. the same length on the r180? I also read that the driveshaft will need to be shortened because of the bw trans is longer. All these parts came off of a 1982zxt for reference. I also noticed that the bell housing on the bw trans had 2 support legs that bolted to the block on thezxt. Is this gonna be problem running without these?? Looking for professors in the school of hard knocks to teach me . steve

I will have a pair off of a 1982zxt coupe by next week. E-mail me in about 2 week and i will send some pics. I am buying this car as a parts car. steve

I am buying a 1982zxturbo for a parts car. I looked at it today and it was a very nice one till it met the telephone pole. It has only 60k miles and the engine is clean, but i don't need it ,i need the trans and rear. What would the engine be worth? Do you think a person could sell a majority of the parts off this car? The car will be in my wifes parking spot in the garage so I don't want it sitting around to long waiting for someone to buy the motor. But I do want to leave the engine in so someone can hear it run steve

I am going to look at a 1981zx turbo today in a junk yard. I am just wanting the driveline stuff minus the motor. It was said to have only 60k on the car and was a crash victim. If i was to get this motor running would it be a desirable item to sell. I haven't seen to many engines for sale on the site. I just want to recover some of my costs on the car because there are not giving it away. steve

are you converting from auto to manual? Everything is there except the pedals if i am understanding what you are refering too. If the automatic and manual boxes are the same , surely all are the same..

try damperdoc@aol.com or just search damperdoc. He is about the only show in town so it won't be hard to find. I don't remember the guys name but I will say he was very helpful on the phone. thanks Steve

Thanks for the advice carl. I'm pretty much an idiot when it comes to this computer stuff, but I'm trying to learn. This is the only web site I have chatted on so I've got a lot to learn. As far as a picture I don't even own a digital camera YET, but I am working on that too. Some day I will be in the year 2000. I guess that is why I have a 35 year old datsun and a 25 year old kawasaki.

I thought I would follow up on my damper pulley saga. I had to find a newdamper pulley for my 240z since the integrity of mine was in question.My options I found out was to buy another used one that the rubber was probably shot or buy an after market race pulley for a couple hundred.I found this damper doc guy out in california that rebuilds dampers for all vehicles.It cost as much as buying a used one , and he about guaranteed it against failure. I asked him if it would hold up under slightly higher then stock rpms and he said he would only worry about torque issues. And he was talking big block torque values. He charged me 69.95 for the rebuild which I thought was resonable and I can keep my stock set up that I can still use ac. The pulley came back cleaned, painted, and new rubber bonding

A car that's not brown " priceless"

On my 240, there is a water drain under the wiper motor panel. the water that collects under the panel drains to the outside of the car via a hose that runs under the dash ,in the corner of the fire wall, to the outside front fender. My hose was cracked and the water went inside instead of out

To answer some of your questions, I am getting some machine work done right now at stewart racing engines on gasoline alley. I don't know what kind of mechanical work that you need done, but I have some good experience with some shops around town. I'm not far enough along for paint but I am talking to a body shop on the west side. I have a 1971 that I parted out so give me a call if your looking for any parts. Good luck in Indianapolis its a cool city!!

Welcome, I'm from avon just west of indy. I've restored one 240 and working on another. I'll help you anyway I can . steve.

I asked for advice from everyone on exploding pulleys so I thought I would follow up with some info. Company known as damperdoc in california will rebuild your damper in 2 days for 90 bucks. A guaranteed used one from a salvage was 70 bucks with the same 35 year old rubber. The guy at damperdoc seems pretty confident of his process and the strength of the rubber. He does engines with a lot more torque then ours and no worrys. He said rpms were not a issue. I'm sending mine off shortly , let you know

Is there a late model shoulder harness seat belt system that will bolt into my 240 z. I'd like to find a retractable type.

thanks for all the advice, I'm in search for a good pulley I guess....

I guess the only remedy is to replace. This may sound stupid but could you weld it into one piece or would the lack of flex be to hard on the crank key.