madkaw

It will be tight, but you don’t need a lot of room for the connectors. My set up didn’t give a lot of room for the connectors either. In fact, you learn that there’s not a lot of room for this whole project and you wind up doing three versions before something works right. I must say I am really digging this because of the use of the smart coils and the clean look of these R35 coils compared to my D-585.

Say whaaaaaaatttt?

Damn- id have my 10mm working overtime

Sweet! They look better than my d585’s

Are they smart coils?

Sorry , but trying to follow too many threads , but are you running a Haltech? Shouldnt you refer to their manual as far as wiring ? There might be a method of wiring it for sequential but firing it wasted spark. This way if you get a cam sensor it’s just a software update and not rewiring issue

Really didn’t state it as unreliable , I meant to say that a flywheel reading would be more accurate . The 123 is relying on a shaft driven off a gear that would have some lash or play. Under load might help mitigate slop, but how often do you drive under constant load ? We are probably splitting hairs at this point , but maybe a degree or two might mean the difference of detonation or not under full load.

Could t agree more with the flywheel being used. Like said above , a CAS alone will run your motor just fine .

Nice work . Too much sloppy from that oil shaft for a good CAS, but at least you made good use of it for the cam sensor. Pretty engine compartment - neat and tidy is the way I like it

My point is you don’t have to remove the valve cover to find TDC compression stroke.

Pretty sure you will need an additional sensor for sequential . That one wheel can’t do it all . Maybe you misunderstood them. Still- I’m only running wasted spark and it’s still light years ahead of a dizzy

Fancy! Beware condensation in the MAP sensor line will roll down hill right into the ecu and kill the sensor . I had to go external . Unless you can use a newer style that uses no hose to the ecu

You have a link to this product - I can’t find it . I thought 60-2 wheel is just another version of a 36-1 wheel. I thought two separate sensors were needed or two separate wheels to run sequential

The wheel is for a crank sensor , Im not sure how it works for a cam sensor .

Yeah- stalled and he kept the parts folks let him borrow to make this work - real nice.

How does the wheel support the cam sensor?

TDC COMPRESSION STROKE!!!!!! Pull #1 plug and shove a vacuum plug that just fits the hole in there. Turn over motor till that sucker shoots across the room- you found compression stroke . Now line everything up

It has been fun for me to play with all the numbers . With complete control you can run a ton of advance and run the motor lean without worrying . Cruise at 16AFR and 45 degrees all day . The beauty of having a well engineered mechanical platform and modern technology to run it

Haltech should be great. What MAP sensor are you going to run and where are you installing it?

I was ready to go that route when I thought I was having issues with my TPS . Looks like a cool set up

Build is looking good. Too late now but I would have mentioned that you could shove 14mm high impedance injectors in the stock manifold and they will seal. Probably a mute point if have a 11mm fuel rail. I’m running Audi 1.8 Bosch type now. As far as catch can , PCV, etc, I added a pic of mine . You said you run a catch can, probably plumbed the same way. There’s a few hoses there if you can pick it out. The hose off the intake is for the IAC . The can catches more than I thought. I like how you cleaned the intake up. I need to do a cable myself to get rid of the linkage.

There was a QC sticker provided on a separate piece of paper with an explanation of why it wasn’t on the damper, because the damper needed a protective coating, BUT be assured it was inspected. I will say they were very apologetic and sent a return label immediately. Customer service was good. Full review when I get another one

Well another set back or two. After staring at my valve train I realized my lash pads for the exhaust were to deep in the retainer putting the rocker too close to the edge. So I ordered a larger size and will sacrifice a little on my desired wipe pattern , but should gain more clearance for my rocker . Also, my BHJ damper came in , but had defects so I had to send it back. Check your parts closely guys ( didn’t sound right did it -lol). When you are paying serious $$ for performance stuff it shouldn’t have defects. ?

Shadow line ? The mirrors work good! Turbo Vitalonis

Picked my car up from body shop prison. Just did touch ups on rocker panels and rear valence. STOKED !!!!