madkaw

Sweet! They look better than my d585’s

Are they smart coils?

Sorry , but trying to follow too many threads , but are you running a Haltech? Shouldnt you refer to their manual as far as wiring ? There might be a method of wiring it for sequential but firing it wasted spark. This way if you get a cam sensor it’s just a software update and not rewiring issue

Really didn’t state it as unreliable , I meant to say that a flywheel reading would be more accurate . The 123 is relying on a shaft driven off a gear that would have some lash or play. Under load might help mitigate slop, but how often do you drive under constant load ? We are probably splitting hairs at this point , but maybe a degree or two might mean the difference of detonation or not under full load.

Could t agree more with the flywheel being used. Like said above , a CAS alone will run your motor just fine .

Nice work . Too much sloppy from that oil shaft for a good CAS, but at least you made good use of it for the cam sensor. Pretty engine compartment - neat and tidy is the way I like it

My point is you don’t have to remove the valve cover to find TDC compression stroke.

Pretty sure you will need an additional sensor for sequential . That one wheel can’t do it all . Maybe you misunderstood them. Still- I’m only running wasted spark and it’s still light years ahead of a dizzy

Fancy! Beware condensation in the MAP sensor line will roll down hill right into the ecu and kill the sensor . I had to go external . Unless you can use a newer style that uses no hose to the ecu

You have a link to this product - I can’t find it . I thought 60-2 wheel is just another version of a 36-1 wheel. I thought two separate sensors were needed or two separate wheels to run sequential

The wheel is for a crank sensor , Im not sure how it works for a cam sensor .

Yeah- stalled and he kept the parts folks let him borrow to make this work - real nice.

How does the wheel support the cam sensor?

TDC COMPRESSION STROKE!!!!!! Pull #1 plug and shove a vacuum plug that just fits the hole in there. Turn over motor till that sucker shoots across the room- you found compression stroke . Now line everything up

It has been fun for me to play with all the numbers . With complete control you can run a ton of advance and run the motor lean without worrying . Cruise at 16AFR and 45 degrees all day . The beauty of having a well engineered mechanical platform and modern technology to run it

Haltech should be great. What MAP sensor are you going to run and where are you installing it?

I was ready to go that route when I thought I was having issues with my TPS . Looks like a cool set up

Build is looking good. Too late now but I would have mentioned that you could shove 14mm high impedance injectors in the stock manifold and they will seal. Probably a mute point if have a 11mm fuel rail. I’m running Audi 1.8 Bosch type now. As far as catch can , PCV, etc, I added a pic of mine . You said you run a catch can, probably plumbed the same way. There’s a few hoses there if you can pick it out. The hose off the intake is for the IAC . The can catches more than I thought. I like how you cleaned the intake up. I need to do a cable myself to get rid of the linkage.

There was a QC sticker provided on a separate piece of paper with an explanation of why it wasn’t on the damper, because the damper needed a protective coating, BUT be assured it was inspected. I will say they were very apologetic and sent a return label immediately. Customer service was good. Full review when I get another one

Well another set back or two. After staring at my valve train I realized my lash pads for the exhaust were to deep in the retainer putting the rocker too close to the edge. So I ordered a larger size and will sacrifice a little on my desired wipe pattern , but should gain more clearance for my rocker . Also, my BHJ damper came in , but had defects so I had to send it back. Check your parts closely guys ( didn’t sound right did it -lol). When you are paying serious $$ for performance stuff it shouldn’t have defects. ?

Shadow line ? The mirrors work good! Turbo Vitalonis

Picked my car up from body shop prison. Just did touch ups on rocker panels and rear valence. STOKED !!!!

I was just trying to clarify your statement - not playing semantics. We started the thread talking about straightening ( flattening ) the head. I wanted to clarify you were referring to cutting the head on both sides and not straightening both sides. The last head I had done for someone I had 3 sides cut. Some early heads have some corrosion ( pitting) along the mating surface of the intake and exhaust can use a nice shave. It can get expensive when you start doing 3 sides . Anytime there is warpage on the head , both sides needs to be checked for sure. Yes the head has to be torn all the way down to cut the cam side of the head , but that’s just the way it goes if the cam don’t spin freely

Do you mean to say - machine both sides- Charles?

This was all part of the welding process to close the chambers on some of the heads . Again, I would only consider this process if I had a head that I had a lot of money and mods in and was trying to salvage it after it was warped by overheating . Shaving is the a better alternative if you have the room for P2V clearance - IMHO. Heads are plenty enough still, so unless you can straighten heads yourself, the expense of straightening is not worth it.