madkaw

Post up your MRI’s -lol Just time to get it over with. It’s affecting my play time with the Z

Getting c5-c7 replaced in my neck . Hopefully enough time for me to recoup to drive the 6+ hours . Won’t get much done on car before hand . Might have to pay someone to wax it -lol, that would be weird ! Been too busy trying to finish this 280z to do anything on mine . Really wanted my L28 in there , but alas....

Anyone have some success stories for speaker sizes that fit well in the stock holes in a 77? Looks like there might be depth limitations . I also imagine no speaker lines up as far as bolt pattern , but maybe get lucky. This Reno car I’m doing has a vintage Sansui stereo that I’m going to try and utilize , but the speakers are shot. Don’t even need anything great , just something that fits.

Shiny parts!!

Should be okay. The fuel lines ride high in the tunnel, so doubt you’ll be cutting in that area . This is if you are only replacing rails that attach to floor

I’d say you have a tuning issue. Though gearing helps the smaller 2.4 , there should be no stumble and still should be able to take off in 2nd gear if need be. I would recheck timing (ignition) . I’d also make sure cam timing was done correctly . Everything including fuel should be checked . Something doesn’t seem right

There are some things to consider . Most cam grinds of performance cams already put some advance into the grind itself. Head shaving and chain stretch . If you had a straight head and didn’t have to shave a bunch to get it it right , or you chain is new , advancing the cam timing might not get expected results. Example for me was that my head and block were shaved around .050 total and no shims , so advancing cam 8 degrees was really needed. Cliffs experience sounds about right for advancing timing , more power low end.

I’d venture to say all the early dished pistons BLOCKS are the same . Performance wise I would find a later flat top piston block. Cylinder head. N42 and N47 are the same except for the exhaust ports . The 42 lends itself to more porting advantages , but for just swapping parts it’s a wash

Acquired - thanks guys

Still not enough info

I know what the slit is for- just remembered.

They look good. Not next to the car right now and trying to picture what the slit is for on the vinyl

Let me know

Just looking for the vinyl that goes over the strut towers, do not need any other vinyl. Must be in good shape. Thanks

So this model didn’t have a Interior Tail Light Panel . The Masonite covers everything . Looks new under the carpet

Following ! My son wants to go too, but he is hoping to represent USA in the olympics. I asked him if he would mind if I wondered off to find some Z hangouts -lol. Fortunetly they understand me

I’m putting mine up for sale - 45k gets it guys!

Needs a few more things , but soon. Ive been getting rid of all the fire hazards(nests) before things get too hot. More no rust pics!

Jim came over to help bleed brakes. He was jealous of how well the engine sounded . 30k miles - so it’s not broke in yet

Well I didn’t take the dizzy apart, but cleaned it the best I could by spraying it down . New/used fuel pump pressure checked good. FIRE IN THE HOLE!! This engine starts better than my Megasquirt motor! Sounds smooth and healthy . Can’t wait to drive it around.

The screen is in the inlet of the fuel pump . No screens in the tank I am aware of.

Good point- but hate the thought of disassembling the dizzy. I’ve been into one of them before and it’s not pretty .

If you decide you or your mechanic rather do SU carbs I have a clean set I’d trade for the Mikunis. If you were closer I would offer my services to get the Mikunis running. They can actually be set up off the car, but final adjustments need to be on the engine running based on the motor build

It’s definitely easier going EFI to carbs then the other way around

So close to getting this thing started . As beautiful as the fuel pump looked on the outside, the inside was not so good. I’ve never taken apart one and not sure they are made to be rebuilt. You can see the crusty mess inside that froze the motor up from spinning. I cleaned it easily with lacquer thinner, but I don’t have the O rings to replace on the pump assembly. It went back together okay, but alas, I couldn’t make more than 18lbs of pressure. So I bought a used one and I need to install it. I am going to try and find the correct O rings to salvage the original motor Oil pressure was also an issue. Sitting this long cavitated the pump so I had to remove the oil pump and prime the engine . It took a second to pump thru the crusty oil and come out thru the cam lobes, but it did. Distributor wires were cut for some reason , so I had to mend them. Note the blue overspray on the back of the dizzy . I guess they painted the motor with it installed?