Everything posted by madkaw
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7" brake booster repair and restoration
Got my meds .
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7" brake booster repair and restoration
http://www.pwrsteering.com/brake.html This might be the folks I used. Reasonable pricing for a rebuild . I’d specify that you will do exterior cosmetics .
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7" brake booster repair and restoration
I’m sore now - so can’t wait for tomorrow .
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7" brake booster repair and restoration
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7" brake booster repair and restoration
Charles, I had a 73 rebuilt here in Indiana. I’ll do a little researching to see if I can find the receipt. I doubt I have it , but maybe can search and remember the name. He claimed that he could cross reference Bendix numbers. It did work great when I got it back
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‘72 on BAT worth watching
I get it -lol
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70,71,77,83- projects - the studio is full
Well almost finished with this project . Interior is done as much as I’m doing . Also buffed out a fender just to see what I could get out of this neglected paint job. The owner will probably be upset because I won’t have the time or strength to do the rest of the buff . Disc replacement surgery Monday . If there’s any work that will tear up a back it’s running a buffer for several hours . I wanted the owner to see what he could do with this survivor- though I think this is a re- spray . Color doesn’t match and it looks like there’s two layers of paint . It will make a good 10 footer for sure . Of course the important detail is that this car is almost rust free( some small surface areas, no pitting . The dash cover is a Accu Form , which I thought was made pretty well. Fit pretty damn well right from the start. Just some gentle massaging .
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Finally Taking the Plunge - EFI
I used the Tank inc for my EFI Z. So far very happy with the results. Tank Inc version does require cutting into a tank. The Holley mat would probably eliminate posssibility of cavitation, but I have yet to starve my motor out yet and I run it low on gas a lot.
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l24 blocked engine build - Few Questions
l would shave the block. Just make sure you attach the timing cover to shave it also. .020 can be adjusted for with the chain. Degree your cam . Im at 150 rwhp now with less goodies .
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Input on power gains by swapping head.
I’d go with a better chamber designed head - p79,90, MN 47 and bump compression to 11.5:1 and go with a bigger cam .
- Finally Taking the Plunge - EFI
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Input on power gains by swapping head.
I think if you look at the 42 and and the late e-88 you’ll see there’s not much difference in combustion chamber . The N42 has bigger valves . So there shouldn’t be any real advantage with the 42 if valve sizes are the same . Did your engine make power on the dyno all the way to 7k rpms?
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Input on power gains by swapping head.
How much timing can you run with that combo - total advance . Can you get good fuel there? You could bump compression with a better head and maybe timing too? That p90 would have 53cc chamber unless you shave it. Try a different cam? Is that e-88 ported .?
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70,71,77,83- projects - the studio is full
So getting down to finishing out the interior. Had to replace the center console it was just too warped from the heat to be able to glue back together . Interesting note that the original console had no slot visible for the choke, though flipped over you could see where it had been filled in by the factory . Speakers ! So the B pillar speaker holes had speakers installed. The stereo in the car was a Sansui cassette deck with Sansui speakers. By my measurements they were 5 -1/4” speakers, thus the covers were 6” across. The plastic quarter window panels were notched as well as the Masonite pillar panels to accommodate these speakers. It didn’t really look too bad( I’ll load up a pic later), but one of the quarter panels were cracked badly. I got a replacement SET, so not sure if I want to notch the new panel or delete the whole speaker idea in the B pillar holes. If I delete then I have to find replacement B pillar Masonite . What to do? So I guess originally the speakers were behind the plastic totally? Waiting on dash cap to finish out all what I’m going to do on this car as far as interior. Everything works, every light ! Not sure if the seat belt warning system works yet. Put my Centerlines on this car for now. They work pretty good with this color car I think. Put 205/60/15 on them . The owner still hasn’t committed to keeping this car so I gave him some loaner sneakers to drive the car around . Of course it won’t be much fun with bad shocks. He won’t be thrilled with an auto trans and poor handling. It’s a shame if he judges the car based on that. He has ridden in mine so he knows the potential . The bones are so excellent on this car, hope he sees that.
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L28 Build - Suggestions/Advice Please
You don’t want my exhaust - you would be changing too many things . Google dual exhausts Datsun . Check vendors on this site .
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L28 Build - Suggestions/Advice Please
Duals was a matter of a personal quest of mine for looks and sound and something different . It’s a lot of work and things get really tight under there when you start running two pipes. There’s some nice systems out there for both options. My numbers were from two separate dyno’s - roughly 155 /150 on a chassis dyno. That was with triples .
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L28 Build - Suggestions/Advice Please
Thanks for clarifying . I’m not surprised a Racer Brown cam has the bigger duration . Racer Brown has a great rep and would love to run one of his cams. I’ll be curious what PVC numbers you get.
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L28 Build - Suggestions/Advice Please
I don’t think it’s excessive at 3” , but running anything bigger would be. Why not twin 50mm pipes. I’m running that now on a L24 .My numbers on the dyno don’t look bad and don’t have any evidence it would better with less exhaust. Then again maybe it would have had more torque with less? In the end it wasn’t wasn’t about getting the biggest exhaust for me, it was about having duals, so 2” pipes was readily available . I’m with Charles that going past the area of 3” is probably overkill
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L28 Build - Suggestions/Advice Please
I think you have to
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70,71,77,83- projects - the studio is full
Most solid Z I’ve worked on
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L28 Build - Suggestions/Advice Please
Well it might be too late, but with a steady hand you could blend the seats and at least do the short side radius. The exhaust liners make a sharp edge on the short side radius and it really needs attention . Cam - go as big as will clear your flat tops. These engines love cam and you won’t give up drivability . You have pistons good for 8k + , take advantage of it.
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L28 Build - Suggestions/Advice Please
What have you done with valve seat and bowl areas?
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L28 Build - Suggestions/Advice Please
And where’s the damn pics ?
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L28 Build - Suggestions/Advice Please
My thoughts would be if I spent the money for forged pistons I would take full advantage of their durability with respect to rpms and CR. I would go with as big of a cam as possible and run 11:1+ , but 91 octane you are probably in a safe region. With MS3- which is what I run- with full control of spark you can push the envelope with timing and dial it in more safely than a dizzy, but you probably already know that . As far as porting, my MN47 Is also very similar to to the 79&90 heads, but unsure of the port structure. I could only go 35mm before getting the walls to thin. This is 35mm way down in the hole . So just matching ports of intake and head you might not see any issues
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L28 Build - Suggestions/Advice Please
Flat tops have any reliefs? So cam is 480 lift and what duration? I would have gone higher on the CR with what you have. Becareful how deep you go on that port match. I haven’t dug into a 79 , but I know my MN47 would not open that big