madkaw

All the down drafts I’ve worked on - Holley , etc... the accelerator pump squirted with ANY movement of the throttle . It should be very sensitive to throttle input . I’d start there since it’s the easiest and cheapest

Didn’t mean jack this thread Charles

Nope - just parts replacement

Did you hear back from them

Got my meds .

http://www.pwrsteering.com/brake.html This might be the folks I used. Reasonable pricing for a rebuild . I’d specify that you will do exterior cosmetics .

I’m sore now - so can’t wait for tomorrow .

Today

Charles, I had a 73 rebuilt here in Indiana. I’ll do a little researching to see if I can find the receipt. I doubt I have it , but maybe can search and remember the name. He claimed that he could cross reference Bendix numbers. It did work great when I got it back

I get it -lol

Well almost finished with this project . Interior is done as much as I’m doing . Also buffed out a fender just to see what I could get out of this neglected paint job. The owner will probably be upset because I won’t have the time or strength to do the rest of the buff . Disc replacement surgery Monday . If there’s any work that will tear up a back it’s running a buffer for several hours . I wanted the owner to see what he could do with this survivor- though I think this is a re- spray . Color doesn’t match and it looks like there’s two layers of paint . It will make a good 10 footer for sure . Of course the important detail is that this car is almost rust free( some small surface areas, no pitting . The dash cover is a Accu Form , which I thought was made pretty well. Fit pretty damn well right from the start. Just some gentle massaging .

I used the Tank inc for my EFI Z. So far very happy with the results. Tank Inc version does require cutting into a tank. The Holley mat would probably eliminate posssibility of cavitation, but I have yet to starve my motor out yet and I run it low on gas a lot.

l would shave the block. Just make sure you attach the timing cover to shave it also. .020 can be adjusted for with the chain. Degree your cam . Im at 150 rwhp now with less goodies .

I’d go with a better chamber designed head - p79,90, MN 47 and bump compression to 11.5:1 and go with a bigger cam .

EFI ?

I think if you look at the 42 and and the late e-88 you’ll see there’s not much difference in combustion chamber . The N42 has bigger valves . So there shouldn’t be any real advantage with the 42 if valve sizes are the same . Did your engine make power on the dyno all the way to 7k rpms?

How much timing can you run with that combo - total advance . Can you get good fuel there? You could bump compression with a better head and maybe timing too? That p90 would have 53cc chamber unless you shave it. Try a different cam? Is that e-88 ported .?

So getting down to finishing out the interior. Had to replace the center console it was just too warped from the heat to be able to glue back together . Interesting note that the original console had no slot visible for the choke, though flipped over you could see where it had been filled in by the factory . Speakers ! So the B pillar speaker holes had speakers installed. The stereo in the car was a Sansui cassette deck with Sansui speakers. By my measurements they were 5 -1/4” speakers, thus the covers were 6” across. The plastic quarter window panels were notched as well as the Masonite pillar panels to accommodate these speakers. It didn’t really look too bad( I’ll load up a pic later), but one of the quarter panels were cracked badly. I got a replacement SET, so not sure if I want to notch the new panel or delete the whole speaker idea in the B pillar holes. If I delete then I have to find replacement B pillar Masonite . What to do? So I guess originally the speakers were behind the plastic totally? Waiting on dash cap to finish out all what I’m going to do on this car as far as interior. Everything works, every light ! Not sure if the seat belt warning system works yet. Put my Centerlines on this car for now. They work pretty good with this color car I think. Put 205/60/15 on them . The owner still hasn’t committed to keeping this car so I gave him some loaner sneakers to drive the car around . Of course it won’t be much fun with bad shocks. He won’t be thrilled with an auto trans and poor handling. It’s a shame if he judges the car based on that. He has ridden in mine so he knows the potential . The bones are so excellent on this car, hope he sees that.

You don’t want my exhaust - you would be changing too many things . Google dual exhausts Datsun . Check vendors on this site .

Duals was a matter of a personal quest of mine for looks and sound and something different . It’s a lot of work and things get really tight under there when you start running two pipes. There’s some nice systems out there for both options. My numbers were from two separate dyno’s - roughly 155 /150 on a chassis dyno. That was with triples .

Thanks for clarifying . I’m not surprised a Racer Brown cam has the bigger duration . Racer Brown has a great rep and would love to run one of his cams. I’ll be curious what PVC numbers you get.

I don’t think it’s excessive at 3” , but running anything bigger would be. Why not twin 50mm pipes. I’m running that now on a L24 .My numbers on the dyno don’t look bad and don’t have any evidence it would better with less exhaust. Then again maybe it would have had more torque with less? In the end it wasn’t wasn’t about getting the biggest exhaust for me, it was about having duals, so 2” pipes was readily available . I’m with Charles that going past the area of 3” is probably overkill

I think you have to

Most solid Z I’ve worked on

Well it might be too late, but with a steady hand you could blend the seats and at least do the short side radius. The exhaust liners make a sharp edge on the short side radius and it really needs attention . Cam - go as big as will clear your flat tops. These engines love cam and you won’t give up drivability . You have pistons good for 8k + , take advantage of it.