madkaw

If it’s just connectors replace them . 25$ would get you a whole set. Learn to solder and call it a day . Or pay 1000$ for a new harness if you could find one . All these cars have bad FI connectors by now

And also , a fast EFI would be 1500$ plus all the other stuff you mentioned. He might be able to have a harness made up with his ECU for less than 500$ and not swap out anything

Not sure who ‘you guys ‘ are, but simplifying one BIG part of this project would go a long way to shortening the list ??. It would be a plug and play as most people picture it, but it would a perfect fit for someone who has an empty engine compartment when it comes to wiring . I spent a lot of time searching to wire just the power of the ecu and fuel pumps, etc.. so they worked together properly . This is all done for you and it mounts in the stock place. Yes it’s a shortcut , but this list is so long and the builder will still have to have the knowledge to pull it off

I understand that the coolant does not flow thru the AAR, but warms the plate the AAR sits on- that I didn’t know. I though the AAR was purely signal based from the ECU , but I am still learning .

I knew I would learn a lot on this thread. The only thing broke that I found was the TVV valve which MSA had. I figured it was worth the 35$ and some new hoses to and see if the whole system works besides deleting everything . I don’t want to pull , plug , delete the EGR piping unless i can get nothing to work. I’ve been studying the FSM, , but didn’t read about how the TVV warmed the AAR, interesting .

If you decide to jump right in doing the Megasquirt I would HIGHLY recommend you send that unit off to an experienced guy to have it checked. I would be very cautious of a unit that has had several hands in assembling . If you go to Hybridz in the vendors section and look up Softopz , he would be the guy to get with. I would send the unit to him and have it checked. He could also get you miles ahead by putting you a harness together using your unit. This will save you months of studying and frustration . He would also load you a tune so you don’t have to figure that out either. I have a thread over there in the Megasquirt section on an install I did. You need to save yourself frustration somewhere or you will be wanting to give up early . The Megasquirt system does simplify the whole system, but the learning curve is steep if your not up in your EFI. It allows cheaper , more modern sensors . Since your starting from ground zero with the wiring I would go with the premade harness from Softopz. It’s very resonabily priced. It sounds like you got some positive responses to your questions from the PO.

First off , might need to see what you have . Compression test , look under the valve cover , sniff the oil- if there’s any in there. Get a cheap borescope and look at the pistons . Maybe even pull the oil pan . It could have a blown HG for all you know. As far as running that combo NA- it would be doggie at best and discouraging on power at most. Yes you could use it, but a smaller chamber head would make it much better. Yes more work . Or find a cheap NA motor that’s already running and drop it in there. There’s folks v8 swapping these all the time and selling good running motors for 500$

Any s30 trans will work. The odd ball is the T-5 used on the turbo engine . It has unique yokes for bolting up the driveshaft . It still bolts the same to the L engine. There’s a ton of info and pics showing the different transmissions.

I might have to agree with the captain. You bought someone else’s nightmare and it will be hard to start with that. Then top it off with the turbo motor and programmable ECU :-0 And this is just the engine - there’s a whole bunch more to deal with . You probably didn’t get hurt at that price, but you’ll spend 10 times that getting it to drive - conservatively speaking

It’s funny you ask that. The 77 I’m doing still has everything there , so I plan on making it work, though I just found a broken piece on my thermal valve . Earlier models 9/76 the two tits were plastic instead of metal like yours. But other than that and all the rubber hoses being shot, I think I’ll try and make it work. It would be more work to eliminate everything at this point. Everything is pretty much tied together , so I don’t know what you can get away with as far as eliminating . My buddy has a 77 with all emissions in tact and it runs well. I think you would want to keep the AAR for sure . The other point with mine is the 30k original miles motivates me to keep it stock

Stuck in Philly with no room! My daughter and her husband just bought a house in Ardmore. I swore I’d never live on the east coast again and my daughter ends up there - lol.

Are going to delete the EGR, or put another on?

I think it’s just neglect. The car sat outside in the elements for decades in the hot Nevada sun. Being under the car you realize that it has seen only 30k miles. The struts had/ has some kind of assembly markings( stickers)for left and right. The zinc is still pretty on the brake line brackets and hardware . I think the maintenance was done by hacks . Remember years ago when no one cared about these cars except they were a cheap import ? Ill investigate the paint

After days of trying white vinegar , agitation , SS cable to unclog the return lines I have the tank clean. I went ahead and did the POR -15 tank seal kit. This was battle but hopefully the worst I’ll see on the 77 . I still have a lot of the fuel system to go thru, but the nasty tank job is done . I bought rebuilt injectors and now need to change every piece of hose in the engine and fuel system. I told the owner that this is where the car nickel and dimes you broke. I can’t even use the original fuel clamps because of the difference in size of the braided hose diameter . There goes another 25$ ! So far I’ve bought over 1500$ worth of parts and materials to get this beast going again. And I have no idea of the true shape of the motor? By appearances and inspection I think it’s okay. There’s so much to go thru with the EFI set up that you can’t just try and start it.

Mine are bleach blonde

Or just cut it in half and slide it off - cut off wheel!

BFH time! PB blaster needs to get to the threads somehow. Maybe wirebrush and some tapping with a hammer will loosen enough to get some penetrant in there

You have the rear bumper rubber ends? Looking for the drivers side rear.

So this set was from a Passat 6 cylinder I’m guessing ? Taking notes ? I have to do the same thing

Just went thru the same thing , but my 77 wasn’t as narley . The bore was pristine and the seals were very pliable - I’m going to run it. The calipers and wheel cylinders will get changed .

Hell Fire - he’s got my AFM too ! Also get a preprogrammed MS Cliff. Though looking at all I have to do to get this 77 to run again- SU’s look easier , but it’s not my car. And I don’t ever see me going back with carbs again . Though this swap is a lot easier then going EFI on a carb only head :0

Must be my lucky month. I get a 77 delivered to my house on Father’s Day and Chris is doing a thread on a 77!! saves me a lot searching because it will be covered quite well right here. I wont jack your thread but might make comparisons with my 9/76 . I’ll start my own thread since you’ve given me incentive . Funny that the car is the same color too.

That 2.4 would love that cam and loosing the bottom end might be more about gearing than that cam. That is very streetable . 3:90 gears would be nice for a cam like that.

The 76 is priority because it’s not mine ! Dropped the fuel tank today . After I drained the 12 or so gallons of 20 yea old gas out of it. Can’t tell if the tank is rusted inside or just gooed from the fuel. Trying some soaking in apple cider vinegar to see where I get on that. Tank was also the most damaged part of the car . Looked like the car rolled into a big rock . Goal is to get the car running and driving so the owner can just drive it for now. He never owned a Z and is not sure he will keep it. It’s so nice working on a rust free project. Still lots to do, but the body is a 9 for an unmolested car. Paint is shot , a few dings , it that’s it . The truck is second on the list because I need to keep moving on it. It’s in the wife parking spot and I’m getting some dirty looks lately :0

Don’t understand your question about Dave ?