madkaw

Congrats . Dave Rebello told me today that my block is almost prepped , so I should see my stroker kit(3.2) soon !

So somehow I have 4 going at once. Been too busy to play on the forums much lately . 71 is my car , which is the continuous project. Did take first place at the Midwest Heritage show this past weekend ! 70 is sitting on the rotisserie sideways to make enough room for the 30k mile 77 that just showed up from Reno. Then there’s the 83 720 4WD that’s supposed to be my retirement truck. I probably have to retire just to finish it at this rate. Having fun juggling all this, but it s almost too much. Might have to give up my RR career to concentrate on the Z studio projects .

You won’t be disappointed ! I run MS If you decide to separate some of the FI stuff I might be interested

What’s your location ?

Sent you a text but looking for a complete lock set with ignition

I might have a list of things here shortly. I might just text you . I’m pretty close so shipping would be reasonable.

What shape is the dash pad in?

Looks like you found a flywheel

Just had it cleaned and pressure checked . 150$ shipped

I run a stage 3 on my L24 with no issues . Idles at 800 rpm , lug around in 4th gear in town at 1500 rpm if I wanted . Very streetable !

Glad you like it Cliff and glad it motivates you. Need to get the L28 in there to really do some barking

Add another 2” pipe -lol 39E5EEBE-E03F-4DDB-85E2-C15BC99073BD.mov

Nice pic above , but also point out that is probably the stock intake valve which is only 42mm , so that side will be tight also when using the bigger valve N42

You need to get your head on straight Cliff -lol put that 31 on there! Shave some more off of it first just for the hell of it.

Reminder!

Actually there is very little difference between the n42 and late e88 in the L26 . The only difference is the N42 has the bigger intake valve .Same chamber size on both. Better clear it yourself or the valves will take care of it

Notch your bores for breathing and piece of mind - it’s easy peasy

Not a simple question . It depends on extent of removal. It would be better if you could drill out the spot welds attaching support rails to floor- only where you are removing floor. Leave the ends attached to the tunnel and inner rocker so you have a guide for floor position

I believe Z Car Depot has them- Ebay- MSA

Bigger valves , chamber unshrouded , shave some for CR bump, etc ....

That’s exactly what I was thinking -lol

Well rotisserie is done after several versions were tried. Now the car spins pretty freely with one hand . I can actually think about starting some work in it . I actually have a possible buyer coming to look at it this weekend. I said it would be for sale once it’s a rolling chassis and the metal work is done, but he wants to put his bid in now. Turns out that after meeting him at one if my sons swim meets that him and I were stationed in the USAF together at the same base , squadron , barracks , but weren’t buddies , just ran into each other in the hallways .30 years later our sons are in the same swim team at college - small world. Funnier even was when he found out my passion for Z’s , he went nuts because that was his first car and he has been looking for one . Anywho- lots of work but this solid 70 will make someone a beautiful car. Floor boards and spare wheel well are first up, then fixing the radiator core support next. Really not much for 4858. Somewhere in there though I bought another project - man I’m a dumb arse or gluten for punishment. Picked up a 83 Nissan/ Datsun 720 4x4 . Nevada body is great , everything needs work . I call it my retirement truck .

12.8 is fine and probably as good as you will do with a performance engine with triples . I run my EFI converted performance L24 at about 13.5. What rpms is the idle? What’s wrong with the idle - spitting , popping or just seems high. If it’s a high performance cam then a higher idle might be best - but that can bug folks that are use to a 800 rpm idle. Some times idle is increased for cam oiling with spray bars . More specific info is needed as far as EXACT info on dizzy type, curve, points or electronic. I imagine that dizzy has been curved if it was set up with 20 initial How does engine perform otherwise . What’s your mechanical experience with these engines ? We need as much detailed info as posssible.

20 might be a tad high, but not unreasonable for idle with triples . I would be curious what the mechanical advance is tuned to and if your running vacuum advance? Timing has many variables but WOT full advance could be anywhere from 30 to 38 degrees depending on CR , cam, fuel grade availability. I’m pretty sure that Rebello curves their distributors for full advance after 3300 or so rpms. Mine comes in earlier with my engine . I am using Megasquirt to control ignition. In low load areas of my table I run as much as 45 degrees advance. Not afraid to run high thirties cruising .

So did these parts ever go into production? Will the tea mounts be made also?