madkaw

Not sure yet. That’s what I would like to do, but it’s a little more work then using bumper mounts.

Maybe my question should have asked how high are the rear bumper mount holes above the ground when the car is high enough to rotate. That would probably be the best reference point to build around.

I bet they fit perfect actually . Positive offset should be enough to keep the tires off the lips.

Am I correct about the type sync tool you are using? I was serious about the defect with that tool. You will get erroneous readings . It’s a great tool if it works correctly , but too much time in fuel makes it defectives - at least the one I used

5” is pretty good , so centerline could be lower depending on center connecting bar height. Thanks Charles

Float Sync tool? Glass tubes ? Dont let gas sit in them too long or the expoxy gums up that holds the tubes and block the readings- ask me how I know

I’ll look to see what I have , but I think it’s a bit earlier , probably 12xxx

How early?

I will definitely reference this thread while doing the 70. I hope to have the same arrangement of doing the car on someone else’s dime . I’ve done this before but not to this extent . The bar was set very high here. As far as paint - base coat with lots of clear coat looks amazing , but lots of layers can cause big chips. Color sanding or blocking out the clear - which was probably done here makes a huge difference . Many man hours of good ole elbow grease . All that clear really brightens the paint .

That seems like a lot! So how many inches does the body clear the bottom bar at its closest point? These cars are 60+ inches across , so I thought 36” would be safe . I’m hoping I can jack car up high enough with my Quick jack , to not have to put hydraulic jacks on the rotisserie. i guess everyone’s set up is different as far as contact points, so it’s hard to compare notes .

Another words - if you have to ask how much, then ....

So I thought I would tag on to this thread with questions about my rotisserie build. As you can see I’m not very far along , but need to think about how high the car needs to be to clear spinning. I’ve built In adjustability on the main bar so I can adjust balance once I get it close. I know it doesn’t have to be too high to clear, but I figured 36” at the center? Still not sure about where I want to mount the front end. I was considering using the sway bar mount points along with the tow hook holes under the frame rail. I know the bumper will hold up- but I also have repair to do at the radiator core and the right bumper mount. Might be a mute point because I might fix the radiator core first, but still considering mounting at frame rail.

I guess I had messed up my e-mail address on this posting - my apologies . It is correct now. Surprised I haven’t got more action on this, maybe that was one of the reason -lol.

I don’t know if that was meant for me- but no ITB’s for me - yet. I don’t understand how 2500$ worth of work is needed to match ITB’s anyway. I’ll be running single TB modified intake(Canon manifold with custom plenum). EFI is a one time $$ changer over from carbs, the initial investment hits hard.

I just pulled the trigger with a Rebello kit. Dave is prepping me a block and I bought his kit to assemble myself!

Still available with lowered price .

At least my ad the head is on a stand

Looking at your set up again I would think with that trans your z should about break the rear tires loose in first gear under WOT , or should be very responsive . The T -5 has a low first gear that would make up for that diff gearing. It’s hard to analyze such a subjective subject as how fast your z feels or how strong the motor feels. A very slack chain would drastically retard your valve timing and move your power band ( higher rpm)into an area that your stock cam would not be optimized.

First things first! Check your valve timing now. You have a stock cam so see how your marks line up. You need to do this to install a new timing chain anyway. Checking to see how the notch lines up will tell you if you do have a valve timing or chain issue. You can peek down in the hole to see if the tensioner has fallen out or something.

What’s the rpm power band on that stage 2? its probably too small for what I want . What are doing with all those 3’s

Well I can actually say I’m making progress again. Wanting more power for this summer and getting my Megasquirt going has been a big motivator. The block has been sitting under plastic bags and the guts have been in Tupperware totes. I had already sized rings so they were ready to go. I had to clean the pistons again for the third time after noticing i missed some carbon in the ring glands. I also drilled out the plugs on the block to get full access to the oil gallery. After getting that done it was time to clean again. Id say assembly went smoothly but had issues with oil clearances on 4&5 mains. All the caps were numbered and marked with dots( which I did neither to the best of my memory) . I put it back the same way and 4 had only .001 clearance while 5 had .003. I tried everything from deburring, filing , swapping bearing shells to improve things and nothing worked. When 4 got torqued , it made the crank noticeably harder to turn. I finally had to resort to calling my machinist for advice. He said to try swapping caps, and I did , and it worked. Crank spun freely and plastic gauge showed .002 on both. That was a big victory ! I knew this engine spun freely when I took it apart , but didn’t pay attention to the markings other than that they were marked. Piston pop out is .023 . Yes the block was shaved . Waiting on a timing kit to come in since I wasn’t happy with the Melling kit. Dam crank sprocket would even fit ? Time to dust off the MN47 . It’s been sitting in a box for a very long time and I wasn’t even sure how much more work it needed. I considered using my E88 that’s on my L24 , but at 37cc Chambers , I think it would be too much CR, besides the fact .050 has been shaved off it and makes P2V clearance much less. The MN47 needs more port work around the guide area mostly, then dropping in bigger intake valves , so it will take a minute . But it will get most of my attention for a while . With block pretty much done , I can concentrate on the head .

oh- yeah that is scary. I spend many a night sitting in a siding taking a nap. Wouldn’t wake up from that one though

Did I miss something ?

I’d try notch 3 on the cam sprocket. Take some slack out and advance your cam timing to get the intake valve closed earlier and get back some compression. If the chain is that loose your losing power

Refurbished Datsun E 31 cylinder head for sale. This cylinder head came off a 1971 240 Z that I recently parted out. It was in very clean condition when I found it, but needed some TLC. This would be an ideal head for your restoration with its clean casting and stock specs. I decided not to modify this head because the cam was in such wonderful condition as well as the valve train. I have listed below what I have checked and had done on this head. I am presenting a cylinder head that you should be able to unbox and bolt to your motor. Stock valve sizes. Pressure checked head. Machine surfaced all three sides of mating surfaces . I measure a total of .018 removed from head thickness. All threads cleaned. All bronze intake seats replaced with steel. All guides within tolerance, new Viton guide seals installed Complete valve job with new intake seats blended to ports. All new valve springs. All wipe patterns checked and any adjustments made. Valve lash is adjusted on all valves. All combustion chambers cleaned of pitting and sharp edges ,and unshrouded for breathing purposes. All Chambers CC’d and all measure 41.8cc plus or minus .2 cc All new exhaust/intake studs installed . New inspection plate. New freeze plug installed Sprocket is used and was just mounted to provide proper spacing for cam. This head never saw a bead blast cabinet and was run thru a parts washer at least 3 times. I am asking 1100$ for the head with credit for your core. Core does not have to be an E-31 casting . Will always consider partial trades for Z parts. . Like I said earlier this should be good to run out of the box . I will ship with a valve cover . Price includes shipping in the USA I will be glad to answer any specific questions and will offer tech support to buyer if needed. PM me or email sfinnerty1018@gmail.com