madkaw

Ummm- I was responding to the OP - and relating what I found to hope help him . All good info and should help OP And welcome aboard - we always need fresh help

Car sitting for an unknown amount of time is a big clue. Addding fuel as you did probably stirred up years of yuk in the tank. When you buy an old car / classic like this you have to expect the worse. I went thru a similar issue and it turned out to be a clogged return line on the pick up tube. The fuel sending unit looked new when I pulled it out of the tank but the return had gunk in it and barely flowed and it would shut completely and it made the engine studder

Gotcha ! I might be expecting too much . I read somewhere - maybe here- using a winch handle and gear . Happy to have it mostly done anyways. Need to make a runner between the two stands . Need to get cracking on 4858 !

It might be close to neutral - not sure what to expect as far as force required to spin it upside down. I was hoping to be able to set it on it’s side and stay there - but not neutral enough for that. If all else fails I will put a winch gear on there to put it where I want . yes 1970

Well I have it twirling but still bottom heavy. I can man handle it around but it isn’t neutral . Being trying a basically 2” difference front to rear based on Charles numbers . I can have an effect on the effort by adjusting things but can’t seem to find a neutral balance . So is it a very small window of adjustment to find neutral?

Wish I had something to trade!

I wonder if newer concepts concerning rings can be applied to older engines(pistons), blocks, etc... I went with recommended gaps for our engines with stock pistons. The second ring is a smaller gap , though I went closer to the wider end gap averages

Or just buy my CAI and be done with it

Any specifics on the head? Stock valve sizes? Doesn’t look like any bowl work was done. Looks like 44cc Chambers so pretty big cut on the head.

Maybe they can pull some numbers from previous shows . I want to say less than a 100 cars for all categories . Its some beautiful country in that neck of the woods . Speaking of necks , hope mine isn’t getting surgery then or I’ll miss the whole show in my back yard .

Nashville is also only 17 miles from the college town of Bloomington. Lots to see and eat there also.

Sold!

Loving my Rage saw

Thanks Charles- that helps . My center bar won’t be that high off the ground plus you said you had 5” of clearance . Gives me an idea if I’m in the ballpark

I need to move this , so 900$ shipped in the USA .

Datsun - front engine - exhaust under sests Porsche- rear engine(most) A lot owners go with aftermarket performance exhaust which usually causes more drone. Counter with more insulation . Personal tastes. I love my exhaust except when the drone comes in to play. I drive my car all the time when I’m home, and at 55 year young, I like a little civility for a DD.

Rotisserie started!

Bummer !

Looking for help from a member in Reno . I have someone here in Indiana that has inherited a 77 and needs assistance getting back here. The issue will be getting it to a point to be able to be transported . Been sitting since 93

No hurry - still have some cutting to do before welding Got a new weapon to fight this battle

Not sure yet. That’s what I would like to do, but it’s a little more work then using bumper mounts.

Maybe my question should have asked how high are the rear bumper mount holes above the ground when the car is high enough to rotate. That would probably be the best reference point to build around.

I bet they fit perfect actually . Positive offset should be enough to keep the tires off the lips.

Am I correct about the type sync tool you are using? I was serious about the defect with that tool. You will get erroneous readings . It’s a great tool if it works correctly , but too much time in fuel makes it defectives - at least the one I used

5” is pretty good , so centerline could be lower depending on center connecting bar height. Thanks Charles