madkaw

I have each headlight on a separate relay, so good point whether they both flicker . It seems both do Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Need some help and direction. Headlights flicker sometimes over bumps. Found that if I tap on my relays with the lights on the lights flicker and the relays chatter. This is a 71 which I upgraded to relays . Oddly I have my fuel pump on a relay also and I can get it to chatter also by tapping it. Only thing I think they share in common is the power source. The main power comes from a power strip that I have connected directly to the back of the alternator . Pretty sure the grounds are different between the headlights and fuel pump. Appreciate any testing methods

Well not a great day for Bo's ride. It started out innocent enough to replace the water pump that have out. Rust bolts were expected , but the corrosion on the timing cover wasn't so much. When I pulled the pump off I could see that the years of water had ate away at the pump cavity. Almost ate all the way thru near a bolt hole . It was a matter of time before it leaked or worse. I told Bo I was pulling it since I already had everything drained. Went to pull of the harmonic balancer and it came off in 2 pieces. This is the one Damper Doctor just rebuilt. I actually got the cover off without much fuss and didn't tear up any gaskets . Only to find the timing chain issue. In the end though, if the pump hadn't gave out I wouldn't have found these other issues that would have detonated at 60mph on a back road leaving him stranded- so a silver lining . Ordered a new chain kit and damper got sent back to the Doc. He seemed to know exactly what he did wrong when I talked to him briefly. He apologized for the issue

How weird , maybe I can just see it? I will have to take another pic, I can't find mine now Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Yep Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Charles , Don is the owner of the 72 I'm working on. He doesn't know I already posted for these , but it's the ones in the backing plate that have the threads for the cover box Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Not going to wait long for other responses. Need these for the 72 I'm redoing. Ready to drive !! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I'm needing the bolts that hold the backing plate on. Just need the ones that are the female receptacles for cover bolts. Sorry don't know what the proper name is. I seem to have misplaced mine somewhere . PayPal ready -thanks s_finnerty1018@comcast.net

Drivability will not be an issue with a performance cam. Go with as much performance as you want. Go 490 lift !! My point is don't limit the cam size based on what you think will be street friendly . My 490 /290 idles at 750rpm and pulls around town in 5th gear at 1500rpm just fine. If looking to keep stock springs and valve guide seals , then that's a different story . Sounds like you caught Ron on a good day, but I have seen 2 times that he sent the wrong cam card with the cam. Not much support after the purchase also. Stock cam regrinds are common and best . I would make sure I go with an internally oiled cam . Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Mine MS has been about flawless now for a long time. So once you get it, you got it Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Alright!! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I think it's doable to try it with the engine in -especially since all the accessories are out of the way. Get a jam gun or even an airbrush and go for it. You can crawl all the way in the compartment if you need to and get a better angle. Engine out means you can paint it easily as well as any service or paint to the crossmember . Without engine you could pull the brake lines further away from the firewall to have an easier time painting.

You are so close to yanking the motor , just do it. The time you spend pulling the motor will be made up by the ease of painting an empty engine compartment.

You have too many heads- . I'll take any left over p90a - you want to get rid of Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

The easy remedy is to buy the inserts for the hydraulic head so the mechanical lifters just screw in. But maybe pics will verify that we are all talking the same thing Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Rear suspension is done and I drive her down the highway yesterday !! Despite no door seals , hatch seals and a leaking muffler - it was a bit of a victory drive. Fumed out a bit from the lack of seals and a rich mixture didn't wipe the smile of my face at 65 mph More tuning to do and some temporary seals will make the ride even better. The engine ran very strong though it's lack of maintenance should say other wise . The last original engine component - water pump- gave out shortly after the highway run. Too much rust to injest and it threw it all up in my garage over night, Hopefully the rust treatment for the block got most of the nasty stuff out . Time to drain and put antifreeze in. Transmission shifts hard from 1st to 2nd gear, but I guess that's better than slipping into gear. Other than that the auto box works pretty damn well. Might need to take it for a fluid change and band adjustment - even that can be done on the Jatco.

Metal gasket won't do much but cost more and won't fix any overheating issue. Get head checked by a qualified machinist / engine builder Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Another run with better results. I set the needles flush with piston , not groove. I'm 2.75 turns out now to avoid lean pop, but there's more power there to be had. Going to drive it around like this for a while. Also not running air filter so that leans things out. I've seem to have lost the captive nuts for the backing plate - if anyone wants to sell some. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

And when I say over flow I mean shooting out the air vent Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I guess it was too big of a tweak- . Backfiring happens during tip in under load at lower rpm. Might need to play with timing a little. Not running a vacuum advance at present since this dizzy is a d6-12 with 24!degrees mechanical advance . At present running 12 static . I'll be back at it today Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Mark, The carb overflowed after trying to richen FLOAT LEVEL. . Just did the 10 turns down and seeing fuel method to check float level. Went out for another spin after putting piston needle shoulder flush with the groove. Engine pulled harder but have run out of sunlight until tomorrow. I know I have run the needles like this on my car before with good results (SM) Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Need some tuning advice so I'm tagging on to this thread . SU's idle good and drive decent , but getting some lean spitting out the carbs. Pulling on the choke eliminates and adds gobs of power . Already 2.5 + turns on the little L24(stock), but it wants more. SM needles installed , timing checked, idles too good for vacuum leaks. Plugs showing rich idle but lean white burn on tip. Big question for me is where the shoulder of the needle should be relative to the piston. Flush with the groove or flush with the bottom of the piston. Float levels have been checked numerous times. Just tried richening them up and overflowed one. Help me

I went the easy route and just bought WCR axles