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madkaw

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Everything posted by madkaw

  1. madkaw
    Did you replace the rubber lines? Rebuilt calipers are like 40$ a side, just do it Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
  2. madkaw
    Delete !
  3. madkaw
    Very fixable if you have amazing talent and a frame straightener and lots of time. That's hit hard Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
  4. madkaw
    I'd have to re- read my own thread to know for sure . No resistor in the wiring for sure. Okay, looks like I put a 1k at 57. You need some pull up resistor somewhere . You could try in the wiring first, but somewhere you need one
  5. madkaw
    There's discussion on both VR sensors and hall sensors . MS made it hard for me to differentiate between the two, so I thought any reading on the subject was good. There
  6. madkaw
    Never mind - the link doesn't show on the CCZC app , but here it does
  7. madkaw
    Okay- so I have tried to add a link and it doesn't show up . Chris, I had started a thread on MS forums on this issue and I am trying to post link, but I don't see it Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
  8. madkaw
    http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=53371 Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
  9. madkaw
    http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=53371 Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
  10. madkaw
    Yeah, but with a disclaimer -, didn't work over 4K . I should have read more carefully Chris Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
  11. madkaw
    Ready for prime time! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
  12. madkaw
    Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
  13. madkaw
    Let me rephrase that statement- WE figured it out- thanks for the help guys. So if someone was to ask me to help do this I would say - Forget all the wires but the two black and whites and the green and white( this is if eliminating ballast and automatic thermo relay) Get your ohm meter and find the black and white and green white that has continuity. Take that black and white and put it on the positive terminal of the coil. Take the other black and white and solder it to the green and white . Done . What I did wrong! Disconnected everything and started from scratch . BUT I also looked for 12 volt source with all wired disconnected . When I did find 12 volts wire I used it for positive coil . I should have used the other black and white. Hope all this makes sense Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
  14. madkaw
    Okay- figured it out . Wrong order in the current trail. Had wrong black and white first going to + on coil . So swapped out other black and white to positive side of coil then other black and white connected to green and white and viola! My confusion is when searching for 12volts ( all wires disconnected) ,I found black and white and hooked it to coil. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
  15. madkaw
    I've been searching how to measure at the cam lobe. So you try and get the dial indicator on the rocket at the cam lobe ? I will see if there's enough room to get in there. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
  16. madkaw
    Well that didn't work. Lumens-!was this an automatic trans car? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
  17. madkaw
    I don't know- most everywhere I have read and seen it is using the retainer to measure off of. I've also read it is important to have the dial indicator in line with valve angle - nothing else. BRAAP on hybridz has a nice thread on degree ing a cam which he shows the dial indicator on the retainer . I believe the numbers supplied are not correct , but open to any ideas Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
  18. madkaw
    I'll make note that we think error is with Isky because he did the same to me as far as supplying the incorrect cam card with the cam. I have dialed in my cams using the retainer as the measuring point. Schneider had no issue with this method but warned of faulty numbers because of the inconsistent rocker arm ratios . I try to be careful to get the dial indicator in line with the angle of the valve . Reading are only done at .050 valve lift which in my understanding is the standard to method so help deter the ramp effect . The other problem we are seeing is that cam lobe center numbers don't add up to the card based on my math, but I am truly a novice at this . Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
  19. madkaw
    Lumens , I like this diagram since it puts the tach back in series with the coil. I will try it Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
  20. madkaw
    Certain combos caused some twitching of the tach but usually the engine wouldn't start . I can wire a complete MS 3 unit in my car but this is messing with me.
  21. madkaw
    My understanding is that the 3ohm coil eliminates the need for the resistor. I could wire it back in but have doubts that's the issue
  22. madkaw
    Just did a Pertronix ignition swap on a 72 automatic trans. It had the dual points dizzy but I swapped out with a single point before doing ignition swap. Engine runs fantastic, but I've lost the tach somewhere in this . The auto has additional wires that might be part of my issue. I did away with the ballast and tied those wires together . They seem to have no bearing on whether the engine runs or the tach works- which kind of confused me. The autos also had this relay set up for the secondary points, not sure if they are tied in somehow to the tach . Any insight would be appreciated
  23. madkaw
    It's like tire material -steel belted radial type. Thicker than the original
  24. madkaw
    I fixed my ears on my front carb- pierced them with new holes. Tired of trying to set the float tang for the wrong size needle and seat. Got out the drill and punched new holes- didn't even measure - I was pissed it was taking this long to set flit levels. I have been using the "Float Sync " tool I bought but had a few issues with them too. They don't like gas in them too long I guess - but other than that- pretty handy Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
  25. madkaw
    Blue stuff looks a little weak compared to what I just installed from Z car depot or the stock one I took out. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
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