madkaw
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Everything posted by madkaw
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I can see it right now in this thread? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
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My New Diff Mount and Strap Project
madkaw replied to Captain Obvious's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
I just installed the stock strap ( new) with new mount on the 72 . I saw the strap mount bolts ( large ones) were going to be a PITA with the amount of tension on that strap. I had the diff out and had the diff mount mounted-( mouthful). I pulled the crossmember and bolted it to the diff mount and jacked everything in place at once. I used a trans jack and it was quite effortless . I didn't see anyway I was going to get that strap in with the diff there. I was actually impressed how snug and well it all fit and thought - why the hell I did the RT mount. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club -
Well the front suspension is done and moved on to the rear . Same story as up front with dry poly bushings, and throw in there a totally separated front diff mount . The original arrestor strap did its job and kept the diff at bay. Found a few bolts not torqued and a bad spindle pin, but everything is repairable - and almost done. All new rubber bushings back in and stock mount and strap for the diff. New spindles all around . Hope to have it her own her own legs today, but will see. Half shafts getting new universals and boots with the main driveshaft also with new joints. Can say enough about how nice it is to work in a rust free machine. We haven't had to replace hardly any hardware and it still looks good too
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Just looked it up and looks the same for both versions- get er done:)
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Though there are different versions , I believe most need a pull up resistor for a VR sensor. There are also pots to adjust inside on the board . It's a steep learning curve but you'll get it . I've been told the ignition is the hard part with MS , fuel is easier .
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Fog machines are cheap and a great way to find those leaks. That's how I found the hatch panel leak
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Just noticed that link went to just the manual . Go to section 5.2.2
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Not sure what version you have , but it needs to be set up for a VR sensor to read your crank sensor. Both hardware and software needs to be addressed . http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/MS3XV30_Hardware-1.4.pdf/MS3XV30_Hardware-1.4.html this might get you started . It's a steep learning curve and I have to review it myself. I set mine up years ago it seems, but going strong. You might have to play with the air gap to. I run a hall sensor which may be a bit different , but I think the board is set up the same . Just noticed this thread , sorry I didn't chime in earlier - trying to restore a 72 in my spare time- lol. Feel free to PM me . I haven't touched my MS for a long time, but it's been dam reliable I guess
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Jealous
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The booster repair shop I talked to said the Bendix boosters were pretty good about getting parts for. All I did was tell him what part was bad and measured for a replacement . You might be able to do the same.
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Is yours repairable ? A lot of boosters the vacuum seal on the rod goes bad and it won't seal. I called around and found a replacement seal for 7.50$ . The rest was just cosmetics Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
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Sent a PM, never got a response Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
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Love everything but that spoiler - no pun intended - . It needs color. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
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Regular pump gas? So you willing to run premium grade?
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I am going with Rebello plan just for all these reasons. Better rod angle and Pistons choices. He seems to cover both by offset grinding which gives a journal size for eagle rods. Too much sciencing for me , so I will leave to the experts. I am happy to put all the pieces together which will save me some monies:) Your CR seems a little conservative especially if you go bigger cam- which I would assume you will. I'd bump it up a whole point if that's the case-
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Yes I was referring to piston height , but sounds like you have it covered . So these will be custom Pistons or did you find some that worked from another engine to get that pin height?
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How are dealing with the 3mm
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Yep-just 5 is all I have
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Buddy had an old fuel pump and bingo we are back in business . I guess running that pump without the spacer did it in. Also got the plug out Leon with some serious heat. Now to put the exhaust back in and fire it up Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
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I might have 5 - don't ask me where the 6th one went -ha. Let me check the shed Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club
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I guess a day I can have the garage door open for a while to clear out the stink. Momma doesn't like it when the house stinks up. I did consider that option, but knowing I have to pull out the complete read suspension for bushings and inspect the diff mount , I might just wait.
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The problem with all those cool colors is you have to do the whole scheme for them to pop- IMHO. You'll need to black out your trim to set those modern colors off. Again, just my 2 cents. More work but well worth it.
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Taking metal out where not needed to give better options - if you are referring to journals . I like doing things myself- and I thought the short block would be a no brainier - but I've changed my mind . Rebello has done all the hard work of science for me, but I can save on my labor to put everything together. Not sure what you are saying in first paragraph
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Just keeping the muddy water out during cleaning process . Never had an engine as gunked up as this one. Putty knife, wire brush , gallons of degreaser
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From what I've read this is not a half assed adventure to build a stroker. I've decided to follow the Rebello path instead of going my own. He supplies the parts and preps the crankshaft and block and I put it together . He knows the proven combo. Yiu might consider spending a few more bucks and just buy his kit. You spend 1500 for a used diesel crank or spend 2500 and have all the parts to put a short block stroker together- the good sh!t - that's regrinding your L28 crankshaft
