madkaw

From what I've read this is not a half assed adventure to build a stroker. I've decided to follow the Rebello path instead of going my own. He supplies the parts and preps the crankshaft and block and I put it together . He knows the proven combo. Yiu might consider spending a few more bucks and just buy his kit. You spend 1500 for a used diesel crank or spend 2500 and have all the parts to put a short block stroker together- the good sh!t - that's regrinding your L28 crankshaft

Thanks so much for the inside tip! Ordered several sets and they were just as you stated! Thank you Mike for getting the pic uploader fixed I'm about read to restart this thing , but the fuel pump had a different idea. PO had installed the pump without the phenolic spacer and I think it did the diaphragm in. It doesn't seem to suck hard enough to draw the fuel. Still amazed me that the owner drive it here and it made it. Still waiting on new cam spray bar anyway. I was hoping to set floats up with my new float sync tool, but got everything else ready to go- I think. Plenty of other stuff to do . Front suspension is about done and brakes are bled . Put the new wire harness boot on. It reminds me of those nature vids of a snake swallowing something huge. Drained the diff fluid to change it out to only find that I couldn't budge the fill plug. So now I have an empty diff . I am redoing the bushings on the rear suspension so I guess I will just drop the diff out at the same time

So the advantage here with half rubber is soft razor like handling? My client wants a cruiser so I am keeping everything rubber. For me I considered going halfsies- but rubber on the forward side to help soften the ride over bad roads . All in theory I guess, so I won't know until I try. Anymore I am seeking refinement in my ride, so might go back all rubber Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Poly metal bushing is 51mm i ordered 3 sets !!!!

I like that you get all new hardware . Thanks for the measurement so I can compare. The bushings I got from Z car Depot were Nissans

Thanks for the referrals . Still not positive about the center bushing . The rubber bushings didn't come with one, but I know the urethane bushing utilize one. I actually got the orientation of the washers and rubber correct. I guess I should use the bushing from the poly kit with the rubber bushings? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

That's exactly my plan. Talked to Tank inc today about there FI module . It is pretty slick.

Is your hatch inner vinyl panel on? Has it ever been removed? Fumes will suck right threw your latch assembly and come thru that big hole that is covered by that panel . It needs to be sealed with plastic

They will sell on F.B. For sure - so don't be discouraged

Trying to cover my carb and FI in one sweep. Going to install larger 3/8" fuel lines so bypass can flow freely. Think I will go areomotive 13222 with a FI pump . Not going to dwell too much longer with the Triples , but still like to see if I can get a little more out of the L24. i might consider a low pressure pump and just sell off later. 4070 Carter maybe

Anyone with a link or pics of tension rod bushing and washer orientation -stock rubber bushings. I believe I have the washers turned the right way and the rubber bushing correct , but since I am having difficulty posting pics I can't show you. Been searching but I guess I'm not using the proper description

Makes me wonder about my pump and fuel pressure/supply. The dyno showed a lean condition under heavy load. Pressure barely hangs in at 3psi though it's rated 4 psi and 40 gph. Probably should have gone big with a regulator myself . Getting ready to go the $$ route and do the bypass regulator and bigger pump to eliminate any ?? about fuel supply. This was a carter pump . Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Talk about a tuning nightmare :0

90 psi on a sealed fuel tank? Might try a bit less at first- IMHO

Can't wait to see this high dollar spray bar in person. I post some pics. Datsun Picker's --lol

I wasn't after bling, nor was he, but that's your options for a new bar. He negotiated a great price from zccjdm, so we are going that route. As important as this part is for this engine, I can see paying money for the best option. Since there really are no options except using a cleaned up 40 year old used part - the bling seems much more attractive . He also wants to keep his project moving at a brisk rate , so a swipe of the card and it's done . Thanks for the offer though:)

Thanks for the thoughts Cliff. I've been wanting a n42 head- so maybe I can find it and the spray bar at the same time. I think the owner sprung for a billet one though

Well I've learned something in regards to later an earlier versions. I guess I will just buy a later version and go from there. I'm tired of trying to make the early one work and then worry about it holding together

Who sells that? I thought it was NLA. i guess I need to look again

Glad you are well enough to be starting this thread ! Sorry for your Z loss

Any of these available? I can't believe this idea hasn't been more in demand. Though my cam is internally oiled, there are still many others that still run these . anyhow- I'm looking for a replacement on a customers car. Let me know

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Just took a complete smog pump system off of a 72 . All the original hoses are there and a new valve on the intake. This was a west coast car where emissions was needed. No longer needed and removed here in the Midwest. Not sure about nay markings-I'd just send you pics if interested.

Fuel at the carbs does not necessarily mean fuel in the engine. There are small screen filters in the banjo bolt. The needle and seat maybe screwed. The hoses from float bowl to carb maybe kinked

Minimum of 2500. Yes - disconnect vacuum and set dial back to 34 total . As far as figuring the vacuum on top of that - not sure , but I would say just add in the vacuum advance on top of the 34 at 3000 and see where it stands. In the end Cliff, your motor will tell you if the advance is too much. I bet you will have to either limit the vacuum portion of advance , or just reduce your timing- period