madkaw

What kind of cam lift are they rated for?

Just head down to the parts store and order a coil for the zx and you should get the right ohm coil. Ordered a coil from Autozone I think, Durajunk, worked great. Ran my plugs at .040

My 9/71 has a current driven tach like yours. The only wire that came from the car was the old hot dizzy wire. I had the original plug in for the matchbox. You don't need any of that condenser crap. I used the coil recommended for the zx dizzy, not sure of ohms.

So what's it doing or not doing? Some guys can't get them to idle, so your ahead of the game already. If you don't have a wide band O2 sensor on there yet, get one. It's not the only answer, but it helps with getting a tune. Search. There's more on this site about Webers than Mikunis, that's for sure.

Now make it run!!

Lapping in the valves seems to have strong opinions amongst builders from what I've read. Some machinist argue that a properly done valve job there is no lapping necessary. almost like it's like old school voodoo and todays modern cutters make lapping obsolete. I guess if anything it's a way to check to see if the valve job was done properly. You could just throw some dykem on there and give it a quick whirl. Sounds like a good plan to start with the milder cam, it might make initial tune easier, although I've never had much issue making the stage 3 run well, and I don't say that in a bragging way. I think even a stage 3 is very drivable with a good idle and very tunable.

Using COP set up, no dizzy . Voltage type tachs seem to be easier since no need for an adapter. I guess I will just wire directly off 5he back of the tach to bypass any possible wire detours. Might consider a newer 280z tach retro fitted .

I guess I am surprised that it would even have been used by Rebello if it hadn't been rebuilt. My builder refused to balance my assembly without me rebuilding the damper. He looked at the rubber and the age and said it was a no go. Glad you figured it out.

Yes. The tire is oversized on only one side of the tire though%-0 Rotate tires around until you determine which tire is bad. Size should have nothing to do with this unless the tires are hitting the fenders.

So I'm assuming the Rebello motor was supplied without a pulley? So it was not balanced with the rest of the assembly?

It's almost funny that I can wire up a Megasquirt stand alone ECU, but I can't seem to get the wiring on the tach adapter to work. I think it's the path of those dam tach wires. The black/white changes to green/white and then back to black white-argh. I finally pulled the tach out and got out my multimeter and tracked the wires, since there are several wires with this color combo. I found where the wires come out under the glove box in separate plugs -of all things. So I run a continuity test at these two ends under the glove box and they are connected. The problem seems to be that the ignition is in this loop somehow, but still trying to figure that out. The Megasquirt has a tach out wire. I tried powering the black/white wire and it was causing the starter to try and turn over in acc. position. I can't read the schematic with regards to what wires are tied together at the different ignition switch-positions. Any help from someone who did a MSD igniton with a current tach http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Accessories/Tach_Adapters/8920_-_Tach_Adapter,_Magnetic_Trigger.aspx

My latest version of my triple Mikunis include a new location for the pcv and adding a oil catch can. I also moved my MAP sensor all the way back to the brake booster hose, which seems to work well enough. What really turned out cool was the luckiness to be able repurpose some old braided hoses I had laying around. I needed formed hoses for all the weird angles The pcv valve was moved for several reasons. The biggest being that the oil and crap being pulled from the crankcase was condensing inside my vacuum log and filling my MAP sensor vacuum hose that was at the low point. I also wanted to center the vacuum leak created by the pcv to the center instead of being off to one side. The pcv seemed to want to make the first carb run leaner. Speaking of the PCV, I have learned a little about them lately. Mostly that they are not created equal. Might seem like a no brainer, but I thought most of the differences were because of packaging reasons. So I was running who knows what kind of PCV, but it wasn't Datsun approved. What I had going on was a PCV that was allowing considerable bypass at idle. So I had a sizable air leak right at idle, vs. the stock PCV that closes off at idle. This could equate to almost a 1/2 turn or more of mixture at idle . Is this a bad thing? Jury is still out. I have more investigating, but I think the car idled better, started easier and ran cleaner at idle with the wrong PCV. Someone want to explain the science behind that for me:) Good thing is that despite some richness on the 5&6 at idle or pilot circuit, carbs run good and plugs are a beautiful tan!

Messed with the MN 47 head today. It was more of experimenting on my head named "warpy", for it's .030 warpage. This is my flow bench head and practice porting head. I also wanted to remove the liners to see what's under there. I am curious if there is any usefulness for removing them and how much work was it. I can say that the liners are in there pretty damn well. It took me about an hour to just get one out. I was trying to be somewhat careful as not to damage valve seat or guide or any surface. The liners leave behind a lot of work if you are trying to make the port flow. Sharp edges and raised areas for supporting the liner shells. I don't see myself trying to use this head without liners, but I will try and make one port flow without them. I also wanted to use this head to develop a tapered sanding drum to making porting easier. I have a FI intake in the works that has rather larger ports -37mm- at the head, so I will need to open up a head to use it.

What exactly are you referring to when you say valve body- accelerator pump?

You don't need them Charles? Not too many Mikuni intake/carbs out there. Wish I had the money

The first build will be just a stock bore L28. I asked this at Hybridz, but anyone with definitive flow numbers when comparing the smaller 1.65 intake valve to the 1,72? This MN47 has the smaller valves and would love to not have to change to the bigger ones, but don't want to install a larger cam to just be negated by a 'too small valve' problem. The Mn47 is kind of unique because it's "D" shaped intake ports that neck down to 31mm. So maybe that might have some bearing with this question.

You might have to just bite the bullet of reality and pull off the exhaust. Why take the chance of possibly boogering up a bad situation by making it worse. I know it's a PITA for one bolt, but being able to see it better might open up more options. With it off you could penetrant in there better and maybe pay someone with a welder to weld a bolt to it and just back it out. You drill it and then you've committed to that option

Butt weld would make the job a lot harder and prone to mistakes of over cutting. It also makes welding more of a challenge. No one will see it, so I would go the easiest route and lap weld. It's easier to secure in place for welding also. I plug welded my floors in place holding everything together with clecos. Then I welded seams .

i haven't had any problems with the fel Pro you get from Autozone, except sometimes they get damaged in shipping and they have to reorder me one:(

Nice work!

Many positives-ha! Actually , I have been working on installing a catch can on my engine. I just thought it's not fair for me to have all the fun messing with pcv s

Don't want to cost anyone extra work, maybe trying so save you some later. Being this is a performance build, you might need the venting more than the average engine. If you moderate blow by its all going to try and come out the valve cover breather.

Check out Daniel Stern Lighting website

I respect Braap's knowledge, but in my research the delete of the pcv might have negative effects on engine operation while leaving it in has no effect on power . It's an effective emission device that could possibly prevent crankcase pressures from causing problems.

If it were me, I would have the crankcase breather working. Not sure if the valve cover will release enough pressure to keep your oil seals in place. Crankcase should have some kind of ported vacuum to properly vent.