madkaw

Please-no derails, it's a lot of paperwork,

Didn't they start with transitorized ignition in 73? I thought I used to have an old brain box from a 73

I should have said, Cliff inspired me to do my reliefs better than I did on my old block.! It would be hard to to calculate the reliefs into the CR equation, but it does probably have an effect on it.

I used what MSA was advertising years ago. They are too long at the contact point and sometimes don't ground correctly. I had to file down the solder on the contact to get them to work. And oddly enough the speedo ones never did want to ground right so I put the OE ones in

The reason it didn't start with the tach out is because the coil wire runs thru the tach to give you a reading. It's a current driven tach, so all your ignition current goes thru it. when you pulled your tach you disconnected your ignition.

Progress is such a sweet thing. It was time to do the bore notching. After watching how Cliff's notches came out I knew I could do better on mine. My Z buddy just happen to have a small sanding drum set. The biggest drum was 2" and he also had a 1" . It was almost too easy with 80 grit paper on the drums. Just used my cordless drill and it was very manageable and very quick. I didn't even burn up one drum doing all 12 notches. I used the 2" drum for the intake notch and the 1" for the exhaust.As I advised cliff I went conservative-especially since I'm already 30 over on the bore. Anyway, I very happy the way they turned out. I scrubbed the engine down twice after kicking up sand and started in with assembly. It's was quite a change shoving pistons down in a hole with only .00015 clearance as opposed to .0045. Even with this tight clearance on the piston/cylinder- my rings(Total Seal) still gapped at the upper limits. It's obvious that though Total Seal sells these as file fit, they didn't leave any extra on there. The other surprise to me was when I measure deck height on the pistons. Even with taking .005 off the top off the block the pistons were only .004 above deck. I think these pistons were Sealed Power units. I was expecting to find them around .020 above deck. So the Sealed Power pistons were oversized on the skirt and not as tall . Time to move on. Dropped the crank in there with new Clevite bearings and mounted up all the pistons in the block. It doesn't seem like a whole lot, but for me it was big. Less parts laying around to get lost and dirty. Sent a pic to my machinist to tell him I am waiting on him now-I need my head-NOW. I have also been be working an l28 at the same time. It won't take much to get done. Should be a good cleaning, fresh rings and bearings and a fresh cylinder head.

I think I got lucky but this is a really nice core with a good cam. It was rated A , but never sure on these deals. If I needed a quick fix this head probably could have been made usable with very little money. This will be going on my L28 block that I am rebuilding now. Should be a screamer if I can tune her right

Thanks for the help guys

If that line was gummy, I would bet that's your issue. This has been discussed here before so there might be some suggestions in the archives

Good point Charles . I have had those float bowl lines collapse on me. I've also seen the rubber lines back by the differential get hot enough to get gummy and collapse

A bad coil is a good example of failing under load. A restricted fuel line will also probably be fine in the driveway , but under load the fuel amount would be insufficient. My daughter's ZX turbo acted up mostly under load and would experience the symptoms you describe . I finally found an obstruction in the fuel sending unit that partially blocked flow. The tank was spotless, but something had lodged itself in the sending unit pipe and would close off fuel. I've also have seen a loose connection on a dizzy act this way.

I'm guessing that a 285 hp motor has a cam thar won't idle at 800rpm with carbs. Bet you will have to go with an idle above 1000 to get it to run right. It seems you are expecting street manners from a race engine. Specs on your cam?

Was the pressure checked when it was running bad?

Charles, found one for 80$-thanks again. I guess I didn't even realize this source was available, but now I know!

WOW- thanks Charles , that's awesome

81-84 2.4 maxima. Thanks Charles

Still in the market for this. Looks like another maxima popped up in Newark CA.

I just went thru a similiar situation, but different trans. It looks like the diff could be a 1/2" longer. For some reason 21.5" sticks in my head. It could also be a worn tailshaft bushing that is allowing the play. Or it's a combination of both.

It seems that the lash pad part of the rocker has more texture ( for lack of better words) then the cam side. Those lines you see can't hardly be felt or grabbed with a finger nail. I think a lot more cam failures are do to operator error than these rockers. Not properly setting them up or properly priming the engine before initial fire up. Throw in there the lack of zinc, proper adjustments, etc...

Just got my rockers back from Rocker Arms USA in CA. The guy I talked said they have been doing these for 30+ years, but just moved their business. I already have a set from Delta, but wanted to compare. Gary, I believe I have the name right, said the rockers wouldn't have a perfectly polished finished. He said the finish inperfections were to help retain oil. Take a look at the pics and judge for yourself.

I'd rather believe the carb maker myself. Plus too many variables - cam, etc...

Replace the coil for sure. Cheap and you get to cross it off the list. When coils act up its usually under loaded conditions.

He doesn't here as far as I know. He has a nice project to share

I guess you checked the sending unit to assure it was clear? As far as ignition, do you have a spare coil to try?

What jets were in the carbs when you got them?