madkaw

My judgement was made based on what I saw on my AFR gauge using SM needles. I still believe stock needles are more than adequate for stock L motors.

SM are too big for a stock L24. They were to big for my cammed L24. Put the stock ones back in.

I was wondering how that swap was going. I met you at C&C in Indy. My car started better with a rich idle mixture. My Mikuni's are dead headed at the carbs, no return line. Holley regulator. I think it's all in this thread. Glad to hear from you.

Welcome to the transition nightmare!. You are right there in the zone between 2500-3000. For me it was during moderate acceleration in that zone. I could usually blast right thru that stumble during WOT throttle. I used to watch the AFR go up to 16+ and then the stumble. I played with my bleed pipes that were inside my emulsion tubes, but not sure of your set-up. I finally started filling the bleed pipe holes with solder with good results. I had tried everything else including float levels, pilot jets, pump jets and settings, main air jets, main jets without much luck. I would push the pilot jet as far as you --even running 12 afr at idle and see if that helps. You need to remember that you are dealing with many variables with triple sidedrafts-this isn't your quadrajet. These carbs weren't meant to be daily drivers as much as they were for racing. Todd at Wolfcreek could not offer much more help then getting the carbs tuned for racing. When I would describe my transition issue he would say you have them running pretty good if you ask me. When they run good though.... https://youtu.be/NGh6urUlzcQ

I also found an older post in hybridz regarding the sizing on the rod end. Looks like you are okay- according to Tony D

Did you order just pistons or did you have to buy the cylinders too? Was wondering if they would cut a break on just pistons

Zed is very correct in a very common sense way. I know you have all these heads laying around but the head developed for that dish pistoned engine would be best and probably the least investment-especially if you want to sell off any of the ones you have. It's a non quench head so a matching head would probably work best. A late e88 would best as far as valve size but it isn't until the n47 that has steel seats? Tuning will always be the biggest issue as far as power.

Try this http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/62691-l6-heads-pics-and-descriptions/

Of course I'm joking! Love the scheme. What make are the mirrors? One my cell so no pics. At least you did a Nissan red- mine is Mazda true red ( don't tell anyone though) Hey I can add a pic!

You would be corrected harshly by Todd at Wolf Creek for calling the pilot screws idle mixture screws. Idle mixture is incorrect and misleading because it adjusts way beyond idle. I also think the Mikuni manual recommendation for a single turn out is more for a stock engine application. I never could get a proper mixture using just one turn to cover all the areas the pilot jet covers. I think I was about 2 turns. It sounds like you got it close- congratulations

I would think the later e88 would be similar to the n42 which was put on the dish piston engines. It might be the least amount of work to get you going since it has the larger exhaust. Maybe just freshen it up and go. You could sell off either 31 or 97 to pay for some it.

That's ugly- why would you paint it red and then black out the trim. It just don't make sense.

That's what I thought and I ASSUMED that the OP broke the engine open

Jasper engines are based in Jasper I indiana- just down the road from me. They rebuilt all kinds of engines but don't know why they did that combo.

I think you have your quench definition backwards. The 31 head will have more quench thus higher CR. Popping on any early head (31 or 88) without having it rebuilt would be risky. Might as well have the larger valve on the exhaust done on the 31. The 79 would be terrible compression like said.

I ran that cam on both SU'S and triples and it idled fine.

The flapper wheel was a good idea and probably was very manageable to handle.The larger diameter of the wheel helps with making sure you don't gouge.

I guess I don't understand what you mean by "my total timing sucks". Earlier in the thread you wanted better initial timing , but you aren't happy with your total timing, but your car runs fine at 7000rpm? Didn't answer about your vacuum advance. I still think .080 is too much gap which does effect timing.

What grit was the flapper wheel? And you used a air driven die grinder or drill?

Best I can tell that dizzy has 24 degrees of mechanical advance. So lot's of initial timing is out. I would think it would handle 8 degrees initial without pinging-that's 32 all in. Vacuum advance is disconnected? If so, do you know it's locked out? The ZX dizzy was made for a ZX engine-which you have:) Maybe you need to give it a shot.

So Cliff, did you do the notching all with that flapper wheel?

Yes you should update your signature so we know the engine stuff. I would fix the gap first and then go from there. Retarding the timing to keep it on the scale is a great idea.

What exact dizzy model do you have?

.080 ? Shouldn't it be half that? Advance timing lights are pretty cheap anymore and it takes out the guess .

You don't want those heavy rods, I'll take them off your hands and give you another light set;) Post up pics and we can go from there. Staying on the conservative side is probably best. If you went overbore then you shouldn't need much.