madkaw

Valve guide seals can't be stock with that size cam so check that. Unshrouded combustion chamber will lower CR a bit. So the competition cam will clear pistons okay?

Not sure what pic you are refering to Walter, but the one above shows how I clearanced the bores. My block is .040 over , but I did it for breathing reasons. I'm pretty sure the engine calculator shows 10.25:1 with stock chamber size on a L28 flat-top.

Look familiar:) Except mine is a E-88. Sure the exhaust wasn't upgraded also. I'd see if those aren't 35mm. Clearance would need to be checked for sure, or just unshroud everything including the cylinder bores. I would mic the cam to see where it comes in at. Maybe you do have something there too! L28 block would put you at about 10.25 I think. That's my next step. I already have the flat top block sitting on a stand

You haven't given enough info for a proper answer. What engine? Be specific about performance upgrades. Ignition? What's your jet settings? Did this problem just happen recently?

Yes sir- a bit rich ! Feel free to share you Mikuni experiences- that's how we learn

Duals with SU's. With good speakers or headsets I think you'll enjoy. Triples with same exhaust

Whatever exhaust you run you have to run a resonator(s) to keep the drone at bay. I'm running 2" duals and turbo straight thru magnaflows. It gives a deep tone, but I run mufflers at the rear and 2 resonators also. I'm getting ready to replace my glasspack(resonators) with straight thru 3" magnaflows. The cheap glasspacks wore out fast and the exhaust got annoying after a while. Run the biggest muffler you can fit and a chambered will probably be quieter then my turbo straight thru. I would think a 'performance' chambered would give a good sound. I went thru great lengths to make my dual exhaust, but have no regrets. i have owned many hot rods and this exhaust sounds better then all of them. The little L6 can sound deep and rich with the right set-up. I also run headers too.

I'd grab it if it's any good and cheap. You can always resell it to someone else. It would be an excellent choice if you decide to use it.

Tune - tune - tune Dyno before , then after like Carl said. I got 155rwhp from my L24 with SU's and all of Carls suggestions.

My L24 ran 155 with SU's, but a lot of mods. Didn't have the torque of the L28 , but close. I've driven a stock well maintained L28(77) and I was impressed

Yep, that's a healthy engine. Maybe just leave it alone-ha! I guess there is always the arguement that one dyno reads higher then another. I wish more guys would dyno there engines so they have a number for reference anyway. So now for future projects if you use the same dyno you can see (real) improvements. Now take it to your local dragstrip and see if can get 15's

I can't make out the graph and blow it up to see-argh

Damn, Looks like that dash is crack free. Ditto on the nice find. You are way ahead of the game with a solid chassis. Don't fret, we have a lot of Z assemblers on staff here to assist.

We'll consider it as helping you with the first stage of restoring . The PO did all the tearing down for you- A good body saves ton of time an money so you are ahead of the game. Get some pics up!! Welcome

My buddy has a lift and if I ever have time enough I am going to get over there. I need to experiment in duplicating this noise without actually moving. With my Wildwoods I can balance all my braking up front and try loading the driveline . A buddy also recommended rocking the car in gear which would be easy enough on a lift. I will have camcorder in hand to record this moment if I get it work!!! I have to pop on two new mufflers/resonators anyway and maybe swap out trans, so why not just do it all.

So LSD also .

Jim, Thanks for the report. This is a r180? My clunking still persists and it has been definetly worse since going all rubber. I like your idea and wish I had some old urethane bushings to tear up like that. Keep us updated, might be my next project!

Google is your friend!

Datsun P79 cylinder head mods

Thank God we got a second page, it takes forever for my phone to scroll that first page- I am 99% positive a have an ignition problem= Megasquirt. When plugs 4,5,,6 look carboned on triple carbs, then it's probably ignition. I've always ran the 6 with good results.

That sucks- so much a grinder wouldn't fix?

Fuel pressure gauges reads steady at idle. Checked the filters/screens when checking floats. I'm not in town right now, but I have decided that first thing I'm going to do is readjust valves. Bouncy idle, low vacuum reading , miss, it's text book tight valve lash-and I know my valves are tight. I went beyond specs to quiet bad rockers basically, and maybe it's tightened up more to the point that the valve(s) is not sealing.

That's the first thing I jumped on.Everything is holding. This issue is worse and effects all parameters. Basically it's running like poop! It acts like a slight miss, just enough to hear and notice in performance. AFR's are not stable which is easiest to see at idle and it causes the idle to sound like a galloping 3/4 cam. For now I am going to readjust my valves to stock specs to eliminate that. Maybe an internal fuel leak that is allowing some fuel to bypass normal metered paths and causing the roughness. I am going to recheck the needle/seat assemblies. I also eliminated the brake booster and PCV by plugging them at the vacuum log.

As far as the dizzy - go with what you can get away with. I think there should be a number stamped on the pull rod of the vacuum advance. Double that number to get advance. My ZX only had 17 degrees vacuum. I didn't run vacuum, just static at 19 + mechanical 17=36 total. The vacuum advance units seem to be trouble in a lot of these old units.