madkaw

So what's so different about them besides the 1.5" outlet. Is the small outlet producing the sound you want? Then have someone just cut the ends off and weld on some 1.5" pipe.

Why are you stuck on 1.5" outlet? That's going to be hard to find alright. The interior looks like a typical glass pack that I've seen. My glasspacks have given out and the drone is back:( I'm going with magna flow 4" round mufflers with SS mesh construction - hopefully last longer then the 20$ glasspacks

I believe MSA sells the Z logos and caps also

Well your can't be right because your engine is DIRTY. Is is the angle of the dangle here guys. The manual is very specific at 11.25. Cliff's pic looks straight up high noon, but is it the angle of the camera-don't know. But when someone tells me 11;25 and I'm there at high noon-I'm late

That's the way I know it

I used that stuff on my daughters ZXT when I made her 3" exhaust. Expensive but good!

I kind of found that out doing my control arm bushings(outer rear). You can't just slap those urethanes on and hope it's right. I'm going to play around with this for a while. I like how quiet my running gear is now-except for the banging now and then. Once you have things tight under hard acceleration and gearing there is no noise or banging to speak of. It's the changing of the loading on the M bar that is noticable.Besides the fact that it took a lot of effort to install those stock bushings-

The center steel bushing of the M bar rubber bushing is surrounded by a layer of rubber almost all the way to the ends. Don't see how the washer is going to come in contact with any metal.

Drop the pump if it's not right. So you are at TDC #1 right? Not sure of the relevance of the other stuff.

...and you could have had my whole set-up for 200$

OR you can buy what's behind door 3-- I'm selling a complete set with base and coil,module,cap,wires,extra module,harness,,,,,,

I should have put one washer on each end of the curl instead of putting both on the bottom. I would want the inner steel bushing to be centered right? With both washers on the bottom the bushing won't be seated against one of the washers if I am thinking correctly. It was easy to just add the washer on the bottom but the top will require dropping the M bar clear of the stud

I will have to drag out my r200 bar and compare it ( thickness) with the r180. Hell I don't even remember if I still have it now that I think about it. I realize there are a lot of reasons for clunking and thuds and thunks, but I think I have experienced them all. I've had loose gland nut clunk and the loose diff nuts that clunked and of course the diff mount. This noise is different and like I said earlier it seem to come about when I did the STI swap. Zed, I did have 4 large washers that are about 1/8" thick each. This really compressed the rubber . Now when I stick a pry bar in there it hardly moves. I didn't get a chance to drive since I have to work. I also didn't do it right . I put both washers on the bottom, so I need to re do that which means dropping the M bar.

I understand your point . It's an easy thing to try and takes about 5 minutes to remove. It will be quick to determine if this effects anything. I really need to get this thing on the lift .

You might be right about the poly, but this thudk that i am getting seems to tie into reinstalling my r-180 and going back stock bushings. I think the rubber washers need more preload then what they have. I found some huge washers that will cut down the the spacing and preload better. We will see how it goes!

The moustache bar bushings are new or close to new. I went from a r200 to this STI-180 diff and went back to the r-180 bar. In hast I cut out the inner sleeve on the bar and had to go stock bushings. I believe it helps cut noise a lot. I have a buddy with a lift and I am planning on putting it up there and taking a movie as I load the driveline to see whats going on. The stock front diff mount on my car raises the pinion angle enough to change the angle. Whether thats the reason for the noise I am not sure, but there is a LOT with the stock mount. I run the 83 trans BWT-5 so my angles are not stock either.

So I dropped one side of the bar to look at hardware. I am definetly bottoming out on the steel inner bushing . There's no getting it any tighter against those rubber washers without spacers or something. I have no idea what amount of play is okay. It seems the pressed in rubber bushing is there to dampen twisting motion but it seems too much give for up and down

Okay guys-thanks for the replies. So I get under there and my moustache bar looks like mike's pic in that there is a gap between the bar and the downlinks , but the curvature of the bar causes that gap to diminish closer to the center of the diff. Zed might have nailed this. I can take a pry bar between the bar and the frame and get quite a bit of up/down movement at the bushing. Zed, I went back to stock bushings, but they seem loose. My memory fails me and I will have to search but isn't there limited threads on the stud for the bushing? It seems that even though the nuts are torqued down the rubber washers aren't hardly touching the moustache bushing. Maybe I am missing some washers to make this tighter?

Dragging up an old thread and still a problem. Hopefully these pics will help folks see what's going on. The only thing different from this initial post is that I bought a Techno version of the RT mount thinking I had made mine wrong. The only time I hear a thud(not really metal clunking sound) is sometimes letting out on clutch taking off or stabbing the throttle slightly in a higher gear at a low speed. If I was to picture what's going on I would think the moustache bar is slamming into the downlinks during this heavy torque moments. I have a very quiet running gear other then that. I do support the front of my diff with a trans mount and no bottom diff mount. I can get the diff to line up with the stock diff mount very easily, but I don't run it because it raises the front of the diff enough to cause diff whine and noise. I tried flipping the moustache bar around(loops are to the back now) and this gave me clearance but pushed the diff beyond the Rt mount hole by an inch. It did give me lots of clearance in the back, but I would have to do something different up front to the mount. I added gussetting to the downlinks that adds material to the inside edges of the downlinks. I wish I could get a better picture of this but it's hard to get the camera in there. I didn't see much evidence of contact when I swapped the moustache bar around, but honestly I should have taken a better look.

Actually most law mowers don't have them either:)

To answer your PM- I do run a prop valve by the console with much bias towards the front brakes. I have 2 pot rears . I replaced a lot of my hard lines but I placed them in the same place .

I believe Zed is right and you want around 1 ohm. My coil was for the stock ZX dizzy. I thought my flamethrower was giving me fits and I bought an OEM coil to troubleshoot. The problem was my carbs and I didn't need the coil at all. No tach issues

I have a brand new stock replacement that I will never use that I will just about give away if you are interested. I ran a flamethrower with mine

Is the head any good, because you could adapt any part to another block if the block was the issue. You could probably get away cheaper by buying an L28 with the least amount of miles and bolting your stuff on their-but will you know for sure what you have? Or find a complete motor in known running condition and drop in with your carbs. Or rebuild the L24-a fresh l24 will be reliable and strong. Many options here.

Len has mine too