madkaw

So after some practice I figured how to solder close some of the bleed holes on the bleed pipe. I tried a lot of configurations , but what seems to work is closing the top 4 holes. The effect is like a smaller main air jet in that the main jet reacts quicker . I tried all the smaller main air jets and it didn't have the same reaction as altering the bleed pipe. I have also learned that there is no way around the fact that these carbs like to run rich to run best. Yes I could stick a small pilot jet in for a long trip and run 16afr at cruise, but it would bring back the transition bobble. Best power for me right now is Pilots -70 about 2 turns Main air 200 Main jet 150. This puts the AFRs lower then I like at cruise 13-13.5 - 14 depending on gear and rpm . Taller gearing would help for cruise but then I couldn't break the rear tires loose in second gear by slamming the throttle:) I would also state that a different cam would have a completely different outcome. My Schneider cam seems to make great power down low- thus the big pilots!

Been running that set-up for about 15K miles and the cam looks great-EXCEPT for the lash pads. Have the rockers checked(if came with the kit) for flatness or the surfaces being parallel. I have had odd wear because of this issue. Doesn't seem that spring pressure has hurt anything though I have read that it is high relative to stock nissan or other cams. I dynoed 155RWHP with my L24 with this cam. Great low end and pulls hard all the way to 7K

I don't know if there's a best or just one that might be better. Chamber design got better with the later heads as in the P-79 or P90. It's all in details though. You really need to study some threads over at Hybridz in the FAQ section under drivetrain or engines. Several good threads concerning the different year heads and how to modify them. Look over there and your line of questions will get more specific with more understanding.

My glasspacks just gave out and the drone is back:( Going with Magna flow 4" mufflers instead that are SS. I'm not much into the harsh raspy sound. I like my current Magna flow mufflers with the additional glasspacks. Before the packing gave out the sound was deep and rich. I'm hoping the SS mufflers last longer and quiet things down.

Combustion chamber design! The N42 head is an open chamber head with no quench pad thus not a great match for flat tops. Pretty sure Nissan knew that so they matched it with dished pistons. If you really study some of the "pundants" of the L engine over at hybridz they sneak out some tid bits of Lagata power formulas. 'Squish'( piston to head clearance/distance) is essential for fighting detonation and there are zones to avoid. The 42 can be made better with some welding and reworking, but there are better alternatives like the p-79, p90 early Z heads like E31 or early E88. Then there's timing curves as Leon mentioned. It's all in the details. I would consider a different head, especially if the one you have needs rebuilt. Spend some money on a different core and rebuild it. Then you can use a stock Nissan sized gasket and not worry so much about pinging. The CR numbers don't matter much if you can't run aggressive timing.

I've brought this up before with the SU's and that's to check the hoses from the float bowls to the carb. I had hoses that would collapse with heat and thus make the engine run lean. Probably check while engine is warm and feel the hose for flat spots. Timing check is a must. Battery condition and charge

So what's so different about them besides the 1.5" outlet. Is the small outlet producing the sound you want? Then have someone just cut the ends off and weld on some 1.5" pipe.

Why are you stuck on 1.5" outlet? That's going to be hard to find alright. The interior looks like a typical glass pack that I've seen. My glasspacks have given out and the drone is back:( I'm going with magna flow 4" round mufflers with SS mesh construction - hopefully last longer then the 20$ glasspacks

I believe MSA sells the Z logos and caps also

Well your can't be right because your engine is DIRTY. Is is the angle of the dangle here guys. The manual is very specific at 11.25. Cliff's pic looks straight up high noon, but is it the angle of the camera-don't know. But when someone tells me 11;25 and I'm there at high noon-I'm late

That's the way I know it

I used that stuff on my daughters ZXT when I made her 3" exhaust. Expensive but good!

I kind of found that out doing my control arm bushings(outer rear). You can't just slap those urethanes on and hope it's right. I'm going to play around with this for a while. I like how quiet my running gear is now-except for the banging now and then. Once you have things tight under hard acceleration and gearing there is no noise or banging to speak of. It's the changing of the loading on the M bar that is noticable.Besides the fact that it took a lot of effort to install those stock bushings-

The center steel bushing of the M bar rubber bushing is surrounded by a layer of rubber almost all the way to the ends. Don't see how the washer is going to come in contact with any metal.

Drop the pump if it's not right. So you are at TDC #1 right? Not sure of the relevance of the other stuff.

...and you could have had my whole set-up for 200$

OR you can buy what's behind door 3-- I'm selling a complete set with base and coil,module,cap,wires,extra module,harness,,,,,,

I should have put one washer on each end of the curl instead of putting both on the bottom. I would want the inner steel bushing to be centered right? With both washers on the bottom the bushing won't be seated against one of the washers if I am thinking correctly. It was easy to just add the washer on the bottom but the top will require dropping the M bar clear of the stud

I will have to drag out my r200 bar and compare it ( thickness) with the r180. Hell I don't even remember if I still have it now that I think about it. I realize there are a lot of reasons for clunking and thuds and thunks, but I think I have experienced them all. I've had loose gland nut clunk and the loose diff nuts that clunked and of course the diff mount. This noise is different and like I said earlier it seem to come about when I did the STI swap. Zed, I did have 4 large washers that are about 1/8" thick each. This really compressed the rubber . Now when I stick a pry bar in there it hardly moves. I didn't get a chance to drive since I have to work. I also didn't do it right . I put both washers on the bottom, so I need to re do that which means dropping the M bar.

I understand your point . It's an easy thing to try and takes about 5 minutes to remove. It will be quick to determine if this effects anything. I really need to get this thing on the lift .

You might be right about the poly, but this thudk that i am getting seems to tie into reinstalling my r-180 and going back stock bushings. I think the rubber washers need more preload then what they have. I found some huge washers that will cut down the the spacing and preload better. We will see how it goes!

The moustache bar bushings are new or close to new. I went from a r200 to this STI-180 diff and went back to the r-180 bar. In hast I cut out the inner sleeve on the bar and had to go stock bushings. I believe it helps cut noise a lot. I have a buddy with a lift and I am planning on putting it up there and taking a movie as I load the driveline to see whats going on. The stock front diff mount on my car raises the pinion angle enough to change the angle. Whether thats the reason for the noise I am not sure, but there is a LOT with the stock mount. I run the 83 trans BWT-5 so my angles are not stock either.

So I dropped one side of the bar to look at hardware. I am definetly bottoming out on the steel inner bushing . There's no getting it any tighter against those rubber washers without spacers or something. I have no idea what amount of play is okay. It seems the pressed in rubber bushing is there to dampen twisting motion but it seems too much give for up and down

Okay guys-thanks for the replies. So I get under there and my moustache bar looks like mike's pic in that there is a gap between the bar and the downlinks , but the curvature of the bar causes that gap to diminish closer to the center of the diff. Zed might have nailed this. I can take a pry bar between the bar and the frame and get quite a bit of up/down movement at the bushing. Zed, I went back to stock bushings, but they seem loose. My memory fails me and I will have to search but isn't there limited threads on the stud for the bushing? It seems that even though the nuts are torqued down the rubber washers aren't hardly touching the moustache bushing. Maybe I am missing some washers to make this tighter?

Dragging up an old thread and still a problem. Hopefully these pics will help folks see what's going on. The only thing different from this initial post is that I bought a Techno version of the RT mount thinking I had made mine wrong. The only time I hear a thud(not really metal clunking sound) is sometimes letting out on clutch taking off or stabbing the throttle slightly in a higher gear at a low speed. If I was to picture what's going on I would think the moustache bar is slamming into the downlinks during this heavy torque moments. I have a very quiet running gear other then that. I do support the front of my diff with a trans mount and no bottom diff mount. I can get the diff to line up with the stock diff mount very easily, but I don't run it because it raises the front of the diff enough to cause diff whine and noise. I tried flipping the moustache bar around(loops are to the back now) and this gave me clearance but pushed the diff beyond the Rt mount hole by an inch. It did give me lots of clearance in the back, but I would have to do something different up front to the mount. I added gussetting to the downlinks that adds material to the inside edges of the downlinks. I wish I could get a better picture of this but it's hard to get the camera in there. I didn't see much evidence of contact when I swapped the moustache bar around, but honestly I should have taken a better look.