madkaw

Actually most law mowers don't have them either:)

To answer your PM- I do run a prop valve by the console with much bias towards the front brakes. I have 2 pot rears . I replaced a lot of my hard lines but I placed them in the same place .

I believe Zed is right and you want around 1 ohm. My coil was for the stock ZX dizzy. I thought my flamethrower was giving me fits and I bought an OEM coil to troubleshoot. The problem was my carbs and I didn't need the coil at all. No tach issues

I have a brand new stock replacement that I will never use that I will just about give away if you are interested. I ran a flamethrower with mine

Is the head any good, because you could adapt any part to another block if the block was the issue. You could probably get away cheaper by buying an L28 with the least amount of miles and bolting your stuff on their-but will you know for sure what you have? Or find a complete motor in known running condition and drop in with your carbs. Or rebuild the L24-a fresh l24 will be reliable and strong. Many options here.

Len has mine too

Didn't change any valving. I run SS flex lines that I believe came with my kit

I guess I missed this thread earlier. My insight will just be fill for the thread now but, I run 17X8.5 +4 offset rotas. I never saw your offset on your wheels.I rub ever so slightly on the rears with 245/45 tires all the way around. I went too big with the rubber, I believe anything smaller will fit in stock fenders WITH fender lip rolling and slotted towers for additional camber. I tested for clearance by removing the spring and running suspension through it's travel with 235's on the rim and it cleared-then i ordered 245 tires-dumb. So now it rubs with a passenger over big bumps. I didn't go with coil overs because of cost and I wanted to keep the rubber top hats for road noise avoidance. I spent my money on Wildwoods-no regrets:cool: I will shortly be trying smaller tires-like 225's - on the to do list. I think 9" wheel will be super tight and you would need at least + 10 offset if not more to tuck into stock fenders. Then they would fit on the front with stock perches. I believe tokico's have become availabe again

Glad you found it. Yep the little things bite you in the a$$

A console will be made. More then likely it will be a CF Version only and will not be a stock copy. We haven't talked much about it more then it needs to happen as well as a CF defroster panel to match the dash.

Thought I would let you guys in on what I am in doing lately in the Z world. I am working with a FG guy to replicate the early Z dash. The goal of this project is to offer an alternative fix for our aging dashes. The goal includes making this affordable, easy to replace, and an exact copy. Your options now are: Plastic cover that glues on and doesn't allow removal of your gauges... or getting your original fixed for about 1500$ Not very good options. It's a shame too, the dash is the biggest part on the car and can be the biggest eye sore. The FG dash will NOT replace the metal frame work. This project goal is not to lessen the weight of the dash(even though it still might). The metal frame work is what will make this an easy replacement, since it is the necessary foundation to make the gauges fit right and everything else for that matter. Your original dash(cover) is held on to the frame work with screws that can be easily removed, and so will the FG dash. This should be an easy project and a lot less messy then repairing your original dash. I know everyone is and will be curious of cost, and I don't have a definite number yet. The FG guy talked some really good numbers, but I don't want to go there yet. Of course there will be a CF version available also. Once the mold is made he will be able to make either version. The FG dash should be able to be painted just as easily as what is being done now on the repairs. We have also talked about a texture and color built into the FG. I am getting involved with this because I am tired of the alternatives myself. I have roped in a young man who is starting a business making composites. I have seen a custom CF dash he did for a porsche and it was pretty. He has been dealing with composites for over 8 years and seems very capable. He knows this isn't a cash cow job, but hopes it leads to other projects. My thought is there is no competition in this field. I know there was an offering years ago for a CF dash, but you couldn't use your stock gauages and it eliminated your defroster panel-no good for OEM. Anyway, I will update this as it progresses.

If I ever get out to Jersey to see my parents I will have to have some coffee with the Captain. My parents live in Moorestown so I'm right across the river.

There's a thread on Hybridz about rockers not being refinished or made square and they don't ride the lash pad square- which causes noise.

As Zed said-it's the amount of current that might make an ignition issue, not so much the heat. The coil might be caving under high load situations and thus cutting out the ignition. I agree with Sarah that one injector is not your issue. Keep up the good work, most guys with only 5 posts are still wondering what the PCV does-

You shouldn't need octane boosters, just run premium. Eventually no lead gas will take it's toll on a stock early head, but do you know if anything has been done with that engine? Don't fret about the no-lead, just run good gas, keep your coolant system clean and working good and keep your engine in tune and timing checked. Oh, and start reading the Z forums and studying these cars and their characteristics. There is endless info here, just need to do some searching

Congrats on getting a Z with a performance head like the E-31. Run the highest available in your area as said. Are you aware of what detonation is and what it sounds like? If not, get familiar so you can avoid it and avoid replacing head gaskets. I probably run the same compression as you and run 93 octane and run full ignition with no detonation. Welcome to CZCC

Adjust the rod as stated above. Some rods have a longer "nose" on it- the part that adjusts out. My Wildwoods were the same way when first installed.

And get your MAP SENSOR going to look at those numbers.

Chris, looking at your curve numbers seem conservative to what I run on my MS. At WOT or full loading I am at 37 degrees by 3000. No dyno to say whether I am where I should be, but the butt dyno says -close:)

This man speaks with great wisdom. That 71 is no where close to handling 400hp without $$$$ in mods- brakes, suspension, safety. 200 HP would be fun for street and track and cheap while you shake down the chassis.

I guess I forgot my little bit of electronic knowledge from school. I wonder if the locomotives I drive have these type links for those 1200 amp surges

I guess I would wonder why anyone would take the effort and time to deal with fusable links unless you were stuck on Only doing Oem . Time and effort to do an updated fused link of some kind that doesn't leave you guessing - what's in the wire? Just IMHO

The Felpro gaskets aren't bad , but not as easy to cut as straight paper. They are graphite impregnated and I have had no issues cutting them. The biggest issue I have had is them getting damaged in shipping to the parts store(autozone). I usually order 2 to get one good one

Still enjoying clean air!!! This really has enhanced my Z driving experience. Windows down and 70mph is a joy. I did also find some small exhaust leaks in my exhaust system around some band clamps, which I removed and welded solid. I think I was smelling this when I was rolling up to a stop. Though my hatch seal still shows leaks using the fog test, they are very minimal and I can't smell them. The remedy there might be an actual Nissan seal;0 So if you are dealing with smells, there is hope. first thing I would check is the hatch panel. Think about it, it's been there for 40 years and very possibly been removed at least once-probably by you---so seal it up!!

All I can say is---- OMG that's a lot of work.