Dave Sommers

The last parts car I had met the final demise by having the top cut off and grafted back onto another z because of a terrible sunroof in an otherwise nice car that recieved the old roof. It can be done, but it is something that must be done by someone that can get it right and it will not be inexpensive. Matching numbers on a z car are not of much importance to a car in the condition you are describing IMO.

Assuming that you are using a unisyc type flow meter. Make sure the float tube is vertical when tool is mounted on the carb, then turn the adjustable piece in the center of the tool in just enough to cause the indicator to rise in the float tube to match one of the marks. You should use the least amount of restriction to achieve this. This will give you a benchmark to match the other carbs to. You do not readjust the tool at the next carb, you adjust the carb to match the flow rate of each other. It will be clear how the tool works once you use it.

I am looking for center caps for Riken wheels. the caps are black plastic snap in style that fit the basket weave Riken wheels. They look just like this:

I don't think it will come off at all. I dripped some on the tailpipe of my van when painting the rust on the underbody last summer. It is still there, good as new. The brake shield could of course get much hotter, but not too much more I would guess. The por15 will chip off if it gets impact damage, but you don't get much there maybe a stone or two. I used it on several suspension pieces with good success and think it would be ok for your needs. The standard blk is not UV stable and supposedly needs an overcoat of paint, but the stuff on my driveway is still there as well...

Not mine, Mark's - #13 I just help him out when I can which hasn't been much lately. I don't have the time right now to do my own, maybe someday when I retire... Eric, I think you would really be better off mounting it on the chassis somewhere rather than attached to the engine. Less vibration and heat under any circumstances. Length of wires doesn't really matter too much performance wise...

Tanny, You can also try a tire shop that specializes in commercial truck tires. That is where I got some here in VA.

Once again 2many is right on... The 6al and coil should be kept as cool as you can for best results. I mounted mine on the pass side shock tower using the MSD rubber isolators as this side of engine bay is cooler and has the room. We put the ITS car one inside the pass compartment and used long wires. If you are going to mount it inside a box, mounted to the engine probably not good, if the box is going on the inner fender probably good idea. 6al is pretty tufff box by itself and really does make the car run better. $ well spent imo.

You can run the clock on the bench to test it and set the speed. Just need a 12v source and hook it up. Wiring is color coded and since you have had it apart should know which is the ground anyway. Let it run that way for at least a day or two and compare the time. If it is slow or fast you can adjust the speed as on the backside there is a provision for that. You probably won't have too, but if so make any changes very minor as it doesn't take much to make a change in the speed. Running on bench will also let you know if it is going to keep going before you put it back in the dash and have to take it back out again because it quit.

I have had several of the original version spooks on various z-cars over time. The down side is that they were originally made of fiberglass and if you hit anything at all with them at any speed you were picking up the pieces. Road kill of any size that is unavoidable will do them in and bend the valance in the process. I went through several due to this. New ones might be ABS or some other material that may fair better. They don't do as well as a full size air dam performance wise either, but do look more period for the car.

Hey CG. My ZRX is a 99 1100. Picked it up last spring for 5k and it had a whopping 1500 miles on it. It now has a bunch more than that and I am starting to mod it slightly, but will keep the stock pipe to keep it quite and therefore stay in the stealth mode. Bikes are just like cars, there is something for everyone and it is all personal choice. One can choose wisely, or you can go with the crowd and get a Hardley... actually having riden them before they do just fine for what they are designed for, slow cruising sunday riding almost nothing better. Sorry for not staying on the threads, but duty calls and not much time lately for the net. Didn't see this until it came back to the top.

I have a chart of all the bolt sizes used on the 240 and what sizes are where, but just can't find it right now. When I run across it I will post it.

My '72 has the vertical wiring as well. Too bad it doesn't work very good at clearing the window. I think they changed to the horizontal pattern when they ran out of the verticals as most of the 72's I have seen are the horizontal. You guys should also know that the vertical defrosters make your Z go faster too...

Before you throw them out check to see if they are repairable. One of the guys in my local club had some wheels that were bent worse than the one in the pic repaired and they look better than new. I think they place he used was called The olde wheel shop or something like that I know it was in MD. Check the back of some of the car mags and you might find some listings as well. Might just be cheaper than a whole new set. When I see him again next week, I'll ask about it and try and post back.

You guys have now confirmed that I will never take my z car completely apart for the paint job and more thorough clean up that I have been dreaming about. Now I will have to drive my Z in it's less than perfect state forever. Wait, at least I can still drive it... a reasonable trade off. Good luck on all your projects. 2many you are pretty close to me so if you really get the I just gotta drive a z car blues, I could buzz out there and give you the opportunity.

You can fill in a bulls eye fracture and a rock chip if they aren't too big. A fracture that has already radiated is a done deal. And don't feel too bad PHI, as it truely doesn't suck untill you break one that you are putting back in...

I also think that you have got a bad head gasket. Usually there is also a great deal of compression gas in the cooling system seen as bubbles in the radiator when the cap is off. You can also have some coolant in the oil pan - but not always. You can also run it to the condition that causes the fault, then take out the plugs and look for the coolant. Trouble for you is it never stops at just a new gasket as since the head is off, might as well freshen up the valves and since the top end will be so strong might as well throw in some new rings.... Godd luck on it.

Springs are generally no problem and will hold up, the header on the other hand will not. Powder coating is a resin product that is electrostaticly deposited on the metal and then heat cured at around 450. Headers get way too hot and the resin melts off. If you want to try something for headers, the Jet Hot product works well most of the time but make sure you get their high temp version or it will also not hold up over time. Getting a set of Z headers Jet Hotted is around 175 or so, maybe more as mine were done some time ago.

Actually me too on the civic over hardley choice. At least with the crx you can go reliably, stop reasonably and they handle great and are truely fun to drive. The hardley on the other hand does no of the above well... but I of course ride a sport bike Kawa ZRX and like to go fast.

A-dog - bashing the ricers is in the other thread....and I think the general direction in the end is sorta live and let live. After all weren't the early Datsuns actually the OR's = original ricers? Think about it. K-mack if you liked the kz bike and sound, you will really enjoy the ZRX. One look and I had to have a ride, then I had to have one. Alot like the old z-1 style bike, but so much better.

Greetings, Got to chime in on this topic for sure... I am just glad not to be 16 to 20 yrs old right now or I would probably also be blatting down the road in a ricer with a big phaty pipe sticking out the rear... It depends on your point of reference what constitutes cool. To them the honda/acura/etc is their point of reference just like early Datsuns were for me. I ran across a shop local to me that actually produces some very good speed products for these cars, not just cosmetic bolt-ons. This place even had a dyno and ricer race cars that matched anything I have seen at any of the tracks I've been to. Not all of them are profiling and some are serious gearheads. Most of the people driving down the road are just plain satisfied with a whitegoods ride (BTW love that term). The majority of them are droids in this world anyway and aren't here trying to get a kick out of anything, just pluggin along is all they need. At least the gearhead spirit is alive in with some of these ricer guys and will mature in some fashion - or they may just end up pushing around minivans filled with kids and a big phaty pipe sticking out the back! My $.05 worth. Hey CG Z - Just think of the goof-ball posers as bringing you that paycheck money and sell them anything their little heart desires... I'm just investing in the "miracle-ear" company stock cause all those ricers are going to be deaf when they hit 40 from that god-awful music playing so loud on the stereo....I'll retire in style.

Ed, Just curious because I don't have a clue as to what sticker you are talking about and I had a '73 when it was brand new. Don't remember any stickers being located there...

Z Sled, You probably have a repaint. I don't ever remember seeing an original red body with anything other than the blk or off wht interior. Just look behind the door panels of under the dash, etc and you will probably find the original color. There may still be the paint code sticker under the hood as well - but don't count on it.

Ivan, That would be the best solution, but here in the US we don't seem to have a lot of the RB engines sitting around... so juiced up L motor or the 350 chevy v-8 (which are dime a dozen) is the ticket.

I would settle for the same basic thing that 2many wants, formed sections of the inner fenders. I am going to have to make replacement sections for the metal just above the front Xmember Mine just showed the typical rust thru spot where all the inner panel is doubled up above the frame rail. Not going to be fun.

I suggest getting the Noah cover as it is both waterproof to a great extent and breaths. My Z got ejected from the garage for other projects at least 3 years ago and sits under one of these covers in the driveway. Most of the time I can just pull off the cover and go and it looks great. I have even left a coat of polish on it for extended time and just buffed off for the just waxed look. The Noah cover will last about two years in the sunshine before it starts to loose it. I got mine from big sky covers in Montana. Custom cut for the 240, was about 150 with the shipping. If you fold the cover with some care when you take it off the car it will fit in a small bag with no problem. Get a copy of any car mag and look through the adds in the back and there will be several companies to comparision shop the price. Dont go with the cheaper straight cotten covers, useless if stored outside.