240260280z

Here is a tip for the other (fuzzy) side: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/44009-installing-fuzzy-window-trim-240z.html

yes original. if you do not get shocks from the cables when you remove from the plug while the car is running, they are good in my books...better if you can do on a wet day. new ngks should give piece of mind.

imagine the smell of the factory on china where they are made.

excellent... you are kind and talented !

High RPM spark consistency is also affected by the meshing of the distributor drive spindle with the crank gear. There are combinations of steel and brass that are supposed to be better than stock.... I read this it in one of the datsun racing or datsun engine rebuild books. Maybe sunken brass seats or a valve adjust is the reason for the variance in compression.... did you baseline it after the rebuild?

Hi CO, The link and the attachment should help http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-zcar-discussion/39956-looking-detailed-engine-compartment-pic-280z.html Errr the attachment was too big....anyway it was just the AC section of the FSM.... some pics near the mid to end of the section.

Jack Tripper with Gene Simmons' wig.

"That's what she said" Sorry I could not help myself after seeing that title for a few days.

No worries... these are tough cars and have sustained worse abuse than a mis-clocked distributor! You will enjoy more power after tuesday! btw when your distributor is at its correct advance, your car will idle faster so you will have to reduce idle speed at the carbs.

Step 23 is all you need to do in the attachment. Make sure the motor is at top dead centre when installing and you are good to go. Oil Pump.pdf

Great photos. The crank-driven-spindle that connects the oil pump to the distributor is clearly retarded thus your -7 degrees. You can correct this by dropping the oil pump and rotating the shaft. The pump has 4 bolts that hold it to the timing cover. sometimes the sway bar may be in the way so you may have to move it. Another way is to manipulate the plate under the distributor by drilling new holes and oval-ing existing ones or by changing the bracket that holds the distributor. I recommend just dropping the pump and spindle with the engine at TDC and follow the procedure that i will post in the next message as an attachment. The bottom line is that your electrical timing is retarded so you need to advance your timing.

No need to pull the valve cover. We'll assume the chain is ok. Just get the piston #1 at the front of the motor in it's highest point (remove plugs and turn crank with a 27mm socket by hand) Once at Top Dead Center, confirm the timing mark is at 0 on the damper pulley and that the distributor driving spindle end is at 11:30

Here is a 4cyl pulley's marks which looks like 240z

Here is a photo I found on this site. The bottom mark should be zero and align at TDC. Each additional mark is 5degrees BTDC

Set engine at top dead center then check to see if the timing mark is at "0" as a first step (bottom right corner of big photo below). Then lift distributor and look a the end of the spindle that drives the distributor for the 11:30 angle with the smaller 1/2 facing forward. (first photo below) Once your timing mark and distributor are verified (mechanical timing) then move to electrical timing (plug order and distributor rotation)

It looks like the nut goes on top of the weld nut?? Is this a lock/jam nut set-up? Yes that is it. Or as they say on TV "You got it Pontiac!"

Local M70 V12 for sale... wish I had some spare change... and 6 weber IDA's

John always knows: Cool Product

I encountered the same problem and ended up drilling, tapping the next size up.

One of the few car shows I like.... that and the two brothers on NPR Saturday AM's. Good stuff from the USA

Nice ride!

Well if you do run out of fuel on the long stretches during testing, pit and do the trick by replacing the short 4" hose from each jet nipple to fuel bowl with 2' hoses to hold more fuel. Just be sure to secure them so that they are lower than the jet bottom and no air traps are formed.

I assume you have bent the fuel float tabs "down" so that the fuel level raises "up"? ... I did the opposite once or twice including recently in Austin...DOH.....Hardway is such a patient guy You could always screw and re-seal a weight to the float to raise the fuel level a little.