240260280z

I acid dipped a block in muriatic acid using a plastic garbage can. You can do the same but use "evaporust". OR take it to an engine shop that can do similar.

Love it!

Yes plastic is less conductive for sure. I never understood the aluminum spacers and frames in windows. I recall a thermodynamics class where the prof calculated the ideal glass-to-glass spacing where air's insulating properties gave way to convection.... you are bringing back bad memories of unintuitive partial differential equations.... leave those to Bohr and Brahe

I have seen triple glazed windows in Finland. You don't mess around in your region!

great fab work!

Yes, I think northern Europe and Canada have a common interest in thermally efficient designs. That foam in you build is very thick! I have only seen foam that thick in floating docks and in boats. One error that many with in-floor radiate heat do here is to omit a thermal barrier between the heated floor slab and the unheated wall. If the two are connected then the snow will melt 40cm or more from the house!!!

yup. 6 mil vapour barrier and 2" thick plain-Jane white styrofoam insulation (same stuff I used in my house 20 years ago)... works great. FYI The building suppliers try to push the more expensive denser styrofoam for under the concrete but the white stuff is fine. I had to move a pipe that passed through the basement floor in my house 2 years ago and after punching through , the 18 year old foam was absolutely fab under the slab... dry and thick.

I've been busy the last month: I'm a lumberjack and I'm OK. Sadly I had to take down my daughter's tree house from 2003. The area was grubbed by a small excavator but I ended up bringing a bigger one in to finish. Rates were $70/hr for the small and $150/hr for the bigger one. Finishing the crushed stone. 25'w X 24'd slab with in-floor heat. In this area of Canada, one can build a slab up to this size of 600'sq without having to do a footing and the extra inspections. The slab is still drying thus the Canuck-like hockey-rink look. I have ~ 20' to the property line on the back and 10' on the side so I can easily get cars to the back and store them.... lots of room out of my wonderful wife's view. Next steps: Walls and roof. btw this is a "shed". The garage will go next to the house... practice makes perfect.

Great data Matt! Thanks

There is a small contact switch in the AFM that has to close to make the fuel pump run. Take the cover off the afm then move the wiper assembly by hand and observe the reed switch to close. Do this with the key in "run" and you should hear the fuel pump and rush of fuel if all is well. If not then check electrical paths.

If you think your AFM is out of calibration, this will get you close: With the engine running: 1. Stand by driver's side wheel 2. Take cover off AFM 3. Press throttle linkage to hit ~ 3,000rpm 4. Note where the AFM's wiper contact goes on the carbon trace. 5. Manually move the wiper further CW or CCW buy turning it with your finger at at the counterweight. 6. If the car runs faster when the wiper rotates CW then you are running too rich and must tighten the AFM spring. 7. Repeat 3 to 7 until it is running right.

I drove a documented 80k 240Z and it was the first time I noticed the rear end was absolutely "quiet"... there was no way that odometer rolled over.

Welcome to the club! 76 was a great year.

For closer tip spacing, the Y-pipe splitter could be placed in the differential region and two pipes run the rest of the way out. When I do my next car I will just have two pipes come up under the tank and straight out the middle of the car. BRE style

A super nice and helpful guy on this forum with the handle LeonV has a great profile picture of what looks like a DIY twin stack. From what I see is two small off-the-shelf glasspacks with chrome tapered tips and (out of the picture) either one exhaust pipe with a Y or two exhaust pipes running up to the header I was planning to do a horrizontal twin tip on a restoration like this but time ran out. Here is a component that will get you on the path to twins: 2.5" to twin 2.50" http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-10768 (reverse flow) 2.5" to twin 2.25" http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-10758 (reverse flow) 2.5" to twin 2.00" http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-10735 (normal flow) 2.5" to twin 2.00" http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-10748 (reverse flow) 3.0" to twin 2.25" http://www.summitracing.com/parts/imm-429825 (reverse flow)

Given enough time, I am sure that genius and innovative machinist Bruce could build a better Z from regular house hold items! Nice stuff! Keep it coming!

Cool site to find that plate: http://www.worldlicenseplates.com/hp.html

Missing rear parking light. Soil looks like limestone base Trees/brush looks like coastal/island stumped from equatorial region. Plate looks British like... plus the right side driving position. Trinidad, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand maybe?

Fanta Z

yup... the plugs would foul after ~ 25km and black smoke. I had to give my friend new plugs to get home. He lives ~ 25km from my place and decided to take a drive over on Sunday. He barely made it home.

I read that solex's are french weber-like carbs that are not nicely machined but Mikuni apparently made Solex's under licence so if it is a Japanese Solex then it should be similar in quality to a Mikuni. I think that any individual sidedraft triple set-up will be better than twin SU's if jetted correctly. Hopefully a Solex owner will chime in. Some Links: http://www.rmcarburetors.net/ http://www.mikunipower.com/phh01.htm

1999 on zcar.com: cost me 500yen in japan, and I took my 225mm flywheel down to 7kg. I noticed that the japanese take almost all of the inertia ring off the outside and clean up the entire back of the flywheel. I also bought a car that had the flywheel lightened in the US and it had holes drilled around it and rebalanced. It did not rev like the Japanese unit. I also got the machine shop to drop another 750 grams (about 1.5 lbs) by cutting the outer edge of the flywheel on the backside of the ring gear and cutting it to half it's normal width (cut on the non-engagement side) and on the outermost portion there near the face where the pressure plate mounts. This resulted in a wheel that was about 14 pounds, and accellerated quicker than the american-lightened unit with the holes and balancing. I tried them both in my turbo car... $50 beats $300 for an 11# aluminum unit. Now that Tilton 9" low inertia unit...

From Smokey Mtn Z Club's Tech Tips: Flywheel I was wanting a lighter flywheel for my Z, but I was surprised at the very high cost ($350+) for the Centerforce 13 lb one. Is there a flywheel weight in between the stock 24 lb and this 13 lb one that I can use? Yes there is! The flywheel from the 7/78 to 6/84 production date Datsun 810's and Maxima's had a lighter 17.6 lb flywheel, part number 12310-Y7000. So, these are the one's to locate if you're in search of the lighter flywheel. The 810/Maxima flywheel can be identified by the "Y70" cast into the backside of the flywheel. Most junkyards remove the flywheel from engines and will sell them separately. Just make sure the clutch disc surface is not worn excessively. Small groves can be machined out. Check for wear on the starter gear ring. The ring gear can be replaced, but since this will cost much more than a good used flywheel, avoid getting a flywheel that needs the ring gear replaced. The Maxima/810 flywheel takes the 225mm clutch which was the same size as the 2-seater Z car clutch.

Just to add another data point to this thread: My good friend has a 510 with rebuild L16 motor and dual DCOE40 side drafts with 32mm chokes. It came with 135 main jets.... and fuel-fouls the plugs. I have not had a chance to run with the O2 sniffer. The L16 per chamber volume is the same and an L24 so carb sizing/jetting should be similar. To recap: L16 DCOE40 32mm Choke 135main Pig Rich ~ 7-8 AFR (Estimated) L24 DCOE40 30mm Choke 125main Rich ~ 10-11 AFR (Measured) L24 DCOE40 30mm Choke 120main Rich ~ 11-12 AFR (Estimated.. will be measured Spring 2013) L24 DCOE40 30mm Choke 115main TBA ~ 12-13 AFR (Planned for Spring 2013)

Good buy! Fun to learn and tune too... worth the $100 for the entertainment value alone.