240260280z

Cool car. Please post more shots. I would like to see more of the Opel GT graft!

Hi guys, If you have an EFI car, make sure that any filters on the high pressure side of the fuel pump are designed for high pressure. In Atlantic Z's tech tips, the G3 filter goes between the tank and the EFI pump's intake port (i.e. the G3 is only in the low pressure area)

Instruction I pulled from the net ~ 8 years ago

Thanks John Just about to pour the concrete for my "shed". When I do the garage there will be 4 special square areas where I will install threaded tubes for levelling plates.

Thanks!

Thanks Jon, Sadly this place has very few "professionals" though there are many professions. Finding skilled technicians here for nearly anything is usually impossible. The only people I know who can properly align a car are racers and their tools are usually set up for their rides. I hope to buy alignment tools next year so that I do not have to rely on "the professionals" ....I'll still have to farm out machine work (at least there are two good engine shops in the province and a friendly general machine shop 1km from me)... digressing... but as you say setting caster is very quick with the TTT T/C'sss the problem was getting the tech to target 5 degrees rather than 3!!!

Lovely Details:

Thanks guys.

Yes, it needs to run for a month in Fla while on vacation...we can repair/restore it here in Canada after that if it fails.

My buddy likes to drive so it is not a big issue. Tampa to Naples to Miami to Daytona rectangle would be a convenient region.

All you Fla. folks please give me a heads-up if you see a good deal on a Z, roadster, or 510. My good buddy Ross Parks (who I started the Atlantic Z Car club with) spends a month in Fla every spring. He wants to buy a Datsun to drive around then return home or ship to Canada. Thanks!

Like I said... they are junk I'll give you a cam and a set of SU's for them whenever you want.

I need cheap to simply twist wire to hold rebar together. 10" long for leverage was the main point.

Thanks!

Stock valve lift is ~ 0.41" the specs for that cam are 0.45" so ~ 10% more lift. Stock duration is ~ 240/248 degree, that cam is ~ 262/272 degrees so it will work better at higher RPM's. As LeonV said, it is not hot but it is better than stock.

This is what I assumed when I bought the cheap pliers "Made in Canada"...yes I was surprised but I like my country and "hell yeah" I'll buy these. Here is the fine print after buying I should know better.

Here is the data with John Coffey's alignment targets in the left column: The Sept-29 is the data for the car as assembled in stock form. Oct 10 is after a front toe adjustment. Oct 30 and Nov 4 are after two different shops adjusted new techno toys tension/compression and rear control arms. Shouldn't the shops be able to dial in on John Coffey's numbers? Is this the ability of modern day mechanics who specialize in alignment or are the techno toy parts just too difficult to adjust (rolling eyes)? Thanks

http://cars.uk.msn.com/blog/inside-track-blogpost.aspx?post=f09bea48-a138-48bc-b818-6365e393a235 370z: http://auto.sina.com.cn/news/2012-10-30/06561054196.shtml

Wow!--

It is always nice to have photos to reference

There was also a recent post about the clunk from slightly loose differential bolts/studs where it fastens to the moustache bar. I think Guy (Diseazd) found it.

I rebuilt a series-1 4-speed for a resto. I had to grind some of the ball and spring mechanism to make it even go into reverse. This was part of the mechanism to prevent accidentally shifting into reverse. I am not sure why it needed this but it did. Aging would usually weaken parts over time so I was stumped. You can see some of it here: Post #3 Photo 5: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread42884.html