240260280z

Well the next car I will restore has 112 lime green as the original colour so I am not sure if the poll results are telling me to keep it lime green (yellow) with 50% of the vote or not to keep it yellow (with 0 votes)

Also, listing which hypojets and hypo etubes will be an initial starting point for: Stock 240z 40DCOE 28mm choke Stock 240z 40DCOE 30mm choke Stock 240z 40DCOE 32mm choke Stock 280z 40DCOE 30mm choke Stock 280z 40DCOE 32mm choke Stock 280z 40DCOE 34mm choke Stock 280z 45DCOE 34mm choke Stock 280z 45DCOE 36mm choke Stock 280z 45DCOE 38mm choke 3.1 litre Stroker Would be nice to see!

Only 24 votes? Don't be shy!

Well Nut Info:http://fasteners.oemfast.com/item/pop-well-nuts/pop-well-nut-threaded-inserts/b832 I have seen these in the pars bins at ACE hardware. Nutserts would also do the job: http://www.google.ca/search?um=1&hl=en&newwindow=1&biw=1280&bih=713&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=nutsert&oq=nutsert&gs_l=img.3..0l3j0i5j0i24l6.167071.168686.0.169227.7.7.0.0.0.0.112.639.2j5.7.0...0.0...1c.1.D_uKQ_MH56w

Click this for high resolution gif:240z series1 wiring diagram.zip

Our club is the same. A core of selfless excellent people with enthusiasm and thick skins keep it going. What saddens me is the noticeable difference in interests between the owners of the different versions of Z's. I think it would be best to have different clubs for each genre. Maybe GroupZ could do this?

Hi Phred, I am leaning towards the black ones. They are available from Techno Toy Tuning for $475. They are interesting in that they have shims for moving the whole arm forward or backward up to 1/2" ( I guess this may be for series one 1/2 shaft alignment or to get front and rear wheel axis parallel for tracking or for rear caster). Here are more details: [*=2]https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/260z/rear-lower-control-arms-datsun-240z-260z-280z The billet aluminum ones are ~ $750-900 [*=3]http://www.arizonazcar.com/lowarms.html [*=3]http://datsunpartsllc.com/cart/index.php?p=product&id=201&parent=34 The blue ones are $600 [*=3]http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=68 There are some DIY variants too:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread40969.html

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread42832.html

You can see the black ground tied to the metal dash frame. You can see the red power cable connected to the blue wire with 1/2 of the inline fuse holder at the end. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread43766.html

Ditto

I have seen a few of these over the years. Now I need to buy a set. Does anyone have experiences they can share? Thanks

FYI I thought that yellow has some sort of gas resistant compound added to it however wikipedia reports the tapes are colour-coded only to thickness. (Yellow is thicker than white).

Flux is acidic and corrosive. Use yellow teflon tape for sealing fuel line threads. Many have used it with success.

http://www.fricksresilvering.com/ http://www.manta.com/ic/mt6rjpd/ca/a-bob-wilcox-enterprises

Nz .

If you want it to stay closed most of the time and close faster and stay closed just insulate it, add the later water heating device under it, and even run a hot air feed from the manifold to it like the SU carb ice preventative winter mode does. Don't drive in the winter or on very cold days and it won't even be noticed much. The device is just a fast idle to allow you to keep your foot off the pedal for 10-60 secs after you start it. That is it...a momentary faster idle on cold starts.

Great job. It fits tight.

Thanks guys! Great ideas! Roulon down the line.

Oldie from the 70's....back when Stebro was very different from today. Check the Stebro warning on this site here.

Anyone know the type of tape used on exhaust tips? (red below)

I had a similar problem and thought it was the fuel. After testing everything I then swapped distributors and the problem went away.

What colour is best for restoring for resale:

What size Choke (Main Venturi)? What size carb (40,42,45)? What model variation if it is a DCOE? First step is to set the fuel level to 25mm down from the main jet well on all 3.) Read This: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread47405.html Second step is to balance all carbs at idle Third step is to ensure all linkages are the same length Fourth step is to balance air flow at 3000 rpm with linkage adjustments.