240260280z

I soon hope to plot a/f vs throttle plate turns vs enrichment screw turns. I just made a "sniffer pipe" out of copper tubing for my LM1. I'll also follow your lead at steady cruise A/F at 2500rpm on a flat section of road. I also have 1.75mm needle valves, 55F9, 60F9, and a fuel pressure regulator jets coming from pierce manifolds to plot. Just need a good day of testing.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46823.html

I was at the other end with the 55F11 idle jets re-read my post. I can get a/f ratios from rich to lean playing the throttle valve against the idle enrichment screw.

You can use a mechanical clacker pump and do away with the electric one.

I defer to CO in that it is most likely not the damper dia. but rather valve leaking. For a solution just find spares and swap out.

The space between damper and well wall, and the space between piston and dome wall should be the same for both of your pistons and for both of your dampers. These are the critical tolerances that need attention when matching carbs. In your case, one damper is too small in diameter as you have proven by your experiment. (you can try to measure the two dampers to put a number on the difference). For a solution, find a few more dampers and measure them or swap them until you get a close match. As an interim solution, experiment with a thicker oil in the faster piston.

http://www.ten-tenths.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78309&highlight=cherry&page=11 http://www.ten-tenths.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78309 DFCD 71271-2 - Wild Eleki Deluxe - Royal Fingers [4/24/01] This album is mono. Go Royal Fingers Go/Bluejean No. 1/Black Sand Beach/Bonneville/Hey Chance!/Golden Guitar/Ace Of Toyota/Running Donkey//Point Panic/Violet Sky/Test Driver/West Side Guitar/Wild Datsun/Burning 240Z/Crazy Sue Sax/Ajoen Ajoen/The L.A./Echo Rocket '66

EXCELLENT! You make it look so easy!

Steve, check post #25 here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread18948.html

I like black powder coat like this:

Are you aware of the flaw in the Mikuni design where fuel will slosh into the air jets and flood? It happens in hard right turns.

For the line only: nicorp cnc-325 is the raw 3/16" Ni-Cu-Fe brakeline in 25' roll ~$50 For the pre-made: Autozone sells steel (green) and Ni-Cu-Fe (copper) coloured lines. You need the copper ones. As well, you will need the double flare with "J" in the part number for Japanese (M10 X1mm) fittings. Be careful as these stores are a mess usually and bubble flares and non-Japanese are usually mixed up in the racks. Sometimes the green junk ones are several aisles from the good copper ones. Usually they are behind the counter area in smaller stores.

http://www.fedhillusa.com/

Great way to get better at welding too.

I bought a similar "kit". It is pretty generic and you have to use adapters for the long runs. I would recommend buying the copper/nickle Fed-Hill-ish pre-made straight lines at Autozone in longer lengths than needed then 1. cut to length 2. bend to fit/match 3. install the nut 4. flare the end where you cut For example, if you need two 8" pieces, buy a 20" and two nuts,or if you need one 8" piece, buy a 10" and reuse the cut-off nut (ouch).

Much ado about nutt'n.

It was very nice. The GUI is "pleasant" to look at and the steps through the process were "E-Z" with no hang-ups whatsoever...great job!

Things that need work -The gas gauge doesn't work (connect harness wires at fuel sender (front of tank near passenger wheel well) then turn power on to see if gauge goes to full). -Brakes squeal, but it stops just fine (take apart and refresh with high-temp permatex brake lube or similar brake lube). -Smells like a boat (fuel leaks, probably in your gas tank vent system. have a look here:http://www.google.ca/search?num=30&hl=en&newwindow=1&q=fuel+vent+hose+site%3Awww.classiczcars.com&oq=fuel+vent+hose+site%3Awww.classiczcars.com&gs_l=serp.12...0.0.0.57254.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0...0.0...1c.m9cQYDmgN94 -Could use a good interior and engine cleaning (Elbow grease and soapy water first then McGuires detailing spray or similar for plastic/vinyl) -Antenna is messed up and wont extend or retract from where it is (perhaps I could swap it with an electric one and wire it to one of those useless switches? haha) (find a "car stereo" electrical guy...watch out for idiots) -Minor cosmetic flaws, when I get the cash I may touch it up -The arm rest thingy is messing some pegs to keep it in place, but I'll probably just get an aftermarket one with cupholders. -A few minor cracks in the dash -Again, I'll add more as I notice them

Things that need work -The gas gauge doesn't work (connect harness wires at fuel sender (front of tank near passenger wheel well) then turn power on to see if gauge goes to full). -Brakes squeal, but it stops just fine (take apart and refresh with high-temp permatex brake lube or similar brake lube). -Smells like a boat (fuel leaks, probably in your gas tank vent system. have a look here:http://www.google.ca/search?num=30&hl=en&newwindow=1&q=fuel+vent+hose+site%3Awww.classiczcars.com&oq=fuel+vent+hose+site%3Awww.classiczcars.com&gs_l=serp.12...0.0.0.57254.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0...0.0...1c.m9cQYDmgN94 -Could use a good interior and engine cleaning (Elbow grease and soapy water first then McGuires detailing spray or similar for plastic/vinyl) -Antenna is messed up and wont extend or retract from where it is (perhaps I could swap it with an electric one and wire it to one of those useless switches? haha) (find a "car stereo" electrical guy...watch out for idiots) -Minor cosmetic flaws, when I get the cash I may touch it up -The arm rest thingy is messing some pegs to keep it in place, but I'll probably just get an aftermarket one with cupholders. -A few minor cracks in the dash -Again, I'll add more as I notice them

Works like a charm... just ordered the microfiche CD. Thanks! Philip

One is for calibrating the tach's reading against the real rpm. The other two look like trimmer screws but they are simply "suspicious looking" mounting screws.

Check this one: http://what-when-how.com/automobile/crankcase-emission-control-automobile/

NEVERMIND THERE IS ONLY ONE TRIMMER! 240z schematic:: 240z trimmers 280z trimmers

P90 head from BMC can flow 220cfm @ 0.55" at 25" of water: For sneaky racers: If you cleverly use "weak" valve springs and asymmetrical cam grind, you can get more lift than the cam specs.... akin to opening the holes in the su carb balance pipe to get more air.

Glad it worked!