240260280z

Yup, I cranked and pulled the cover off after cranking and for small bursts. This car has a Maxima N47 head with oil passages in the cam and no oil bar (like sightunseen's excellent photo above).

Some times the brazing on the tank fittings cracks and the inlet/outlet pipes can move/rotate along with a leak.

I got 120psi across all 6 with 270 .46 cam. I assume it will go up after break in?

Just primed the pump and gave the motor a lively 200rpm whirrrrrrr using the starter. Oil pressure gauge optimistically hit 20psi so good to go

I just skinned the same cat: 1. Remove oil filter 2. Stick vinyl hose into the oil passage that runs towards the front of the motor 3. Push the hose deep into the passage 4. Use a transfer pump or gravity and a funnel to feed oil into the hose 5. Place oil filter back on and crank for a while.

Update: Removed and inspected the inlet fixture and no pits, scratches or cracks. I also looked at the bolts and they seemed dry (with antiseize). I put some red rtv (shudder) in the hole then slapped some aviation gasket sealer on the threads,re-did the gasket and surfaces with aviation gasket sealer then secured. I'll let it dry tonight then re-fill tomorrow. Just have to wire the zx distributor then fire it up tomorrow. Yeee Hawwww Thanks Again Guys!

Thanks guys! I appreciate your comradery in these situations!

Hmmm, I filled the '71 with coolant for the first time yesterday and just noticed a slow leak from the bolt on the bottom of the water inlet. I will take it off tomorrow to inspect but I don't recall any mating surface or corrosion pitting issues ... and I used aviation gasket sealer on all surfaces. Anyone ever see a leak in this area before?

Nice photos!

Plugs don't look too bad. You should stick with NGK in the future. Do you have Bosch wires? If so they are 100% crap. I wasted $70 on a set an they sparked through the insulation on damp days after 4 months on my old RAV4. Good find with the AFM. Check the timing like Zed Hed says then report back.

That is the B.S.H.Z.

I concur. You can you try tightening the first 4 a little more and #5 a little less. As well,it may not necessarily be height; the cam could be tilted front to back or left to right. Try to seat the towers with a rubber mallet (or hammer and block of wood) after cleaning and deburring both mating surfaces as olzed's excellent recommendation. Also clean and inspect the alignment keys and holes as binding or debris there will also affect alignment. You could also get a new set of towers from a donor head and try.

You can pull the master cylinder off then pull out the seal and push rod with the booster on the car. Try to fish around inside on the bottom of the booster to get the reaction disk. It may be difficult with the internal spring. If you can't get it,either use a disc from another booster or take the booster apart.

http://www.vipbox.tv/watch/32669/1/sky-f1--live-stream-online.html

In the field, I used this and a zip-lock bag to shrink the bushing and then the clutch alignment tool to press in the bushing dry (no grease). The hole in the crank should be free from burrs. A dab of moly grease swirled in the bushing/hole after installation is recommended.

The outside edge of the bushing should be flush with the inside edge of the bevel that is cut in the crank opening:

An engine mount can be used to hold engine with flywheel. 3 short head bolts and 1 long head bolt with iron pipe nipples and washers works fine.

Some detailed pics on this page showing a vac advance going in. The two fastening screws are the same on most distributors I have seen. The old vac advance may have corroded to the distributor housing (where it inserts). You may need some penetrating oil to loosen it up.

I agree, probably a vacuum leak where it whistles. It may be in the brake booster. 1st thing to do is to check your plugs. Too much fuel and plug fouling will bog you down. 2nd thing is to check fuel pump. Not enough fuel under load will cause bogging. 3rd thing is ignition. Ignition systems often fail at higher rpms.

Quick and dirty would be foil-backed tape then a wrap of stainless steel wire up and back crossing over.

Nope .

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Early 260z (pretty much a 240z) in Port Alberni $4k http://bc.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLargeImage?AdId=389400978

Beautiful! And Japanese racing white too!

http://www.gizmag.com/jet-powered-280zx/22656/