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240260280z

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Everything posted by 240260280z

  1. I think he should have no problem selling many. The price is great and it is a part that slowly fails simply from ambient moisture.
  2. 240260280z posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Drain the tank and see what comes out. Also,don't rule out the distributor as the culprit.It can cause problems under load that seem like fuel. P.S. Here is no-load fuel flow at 3000rpm and 800rpm: I drove the car for 600km no problem.
  3. I think as long as it is all metal and has the vins and period correct parts then you are good to go. Put a parts needed list up and lets see what the Z community can send you to revive that early car.
  4. $1500+$1000 shipping will get you period metal: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/3080075306.html
  5. I recommend calibrating it at 12V with a depleted battery or power supply which reads 12.0V on a DVM. Then check it with a 9V battery or variable DC supply for correct functioning.
  6. I'll be back in Canada next Friday and will send you parts to help revive it.
  7. 240260280z posted a post in a topic in RACING
    Yeah a dumb Toyota side swiped it on a restart an it walled. A ton of attrition in the race so far.
  8. For any winter car, you can block off the front of the rad and get a higher temp. thermostat to help stay warmer and faster. A block heater can help too.
  9. 240260280z posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Bridgewater NJ.
  10. 240260280z posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    btw where are you in NJ?
  11. 240260280z posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Use the green 260z pic above and the asian pic to see how they fit. I would do the crossover for the centre console just before it enters. Never mind, I just found this pic and it is exactly as I guessed:
  12. Looking forward to pics. Have a save trip back across the mountains. Here is a photo of #127 from a few years back (2007) during body restoration work. Our club member Michel Malenfant had to dig it out of the ice in Moncton. I think it is nearly ready for paint today.
  13. I have read that many refurbished their switches. I had to use two to make one good one due to corrosion.
  14. 240260280z posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    This is on an asian 240z.
  15. Thanks Rich! I appreciate your tips and will add these. It will make life better for all of us following in your foot steps!
  16. I spent a few hours scouring the net for Copy Cad plating tips and assembled into a PDF. Sorry it is currently net parroting as I never used the Caswell kit yet (I only plated with a self-made kit). I will revise as I get feedback from others and from experience with the kit that just arrived today. Enjoy! [ATTACH]54157[/ATTACH] Caswell Copy CAD Plating Tips V1.0.pdf
  17. He Dan! How is your resto? Put some pics up too!
  18. Most drown it out with ITB's or Webbers/Mikunis/Solex
  19. Remove carbs and soak in a bucket of carb cleaner for a few days.
  20. North east usa? Are you near NJ or Ma?
  21. I could only get the parts from old junk yard z's. Only the complete switch (part number 46100-U5200) is available on line for ~ $175 USD. You may have to get a couple of used ones to refresh and rebuild into a good one as they are usually rusted and gunked-up inside. Here is a great image I just found: And if you need the rear proportioning valve for an early z just $20 right now on ebay: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/71-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-BRAKE-JUNCTION-CONNECTOR-BLOCKS-/170860083474?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c80df912#ht_500wt_970
  22. When reassembling the front end, put everything together very loose then torque to spec. in a logical and balanced fashion. The loose parts allow you to easily fasten all hardware. For example: If you tighten the t/c rod to chassis to spec. before attaching the other end to the control arm, well...have fun. To again take it to the next level, paint mark your torqued hardware as you finish each bolt/nut. This will allow you to check for loosening in the future.
  23. If you want to go one better, buy a metric die and tap set and go crazy...you will wonder why you waited so long to take it to the "next level".
  24. it is a digression of warning that is related to the first post. Very nice looking seat cover for very low price....careful, it could be like those pot-metal turbos or fake webers now on the market. This should get it back on track: Ricer Crowd Down Unda Review: http://www.3si.org/forum/f155/fs-front-leather-seat-covers-530117/ The real company and lower price and lower shipping than on EBay: http://www.interior-innovations.com/

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