240260280z

And 35V vs 50V

Datsun 1500 (U620) Pickup Honda Ridgeline

The seats look great but with most products these days, it is buyer beware as some have learned how to polish a turd very well. I am with Jim... waiting for a report.

1. I believe the 240z's proportioning valve is just a fixed orifice to reduce pressure to the rear brakes so that they do not lock before the front do.... pull your ebrake when cornering (preferably in a huge parking lot with snow) just to experience this effect. The proportioning valve could be incorporated in the master but it must be placed after the differential brake pressure switch that Zed Head mentions above(otherwise the pressure difference with cause the switch to falsely trigger). 2. Was answered by Zed Head. To add to it, the fluids to the back and front never mix. The differential brake pressure switch has a plunger between the front and back systems that gets pushed when one of the systems leaks and looses fluid and pressure. The plunger has seals that prevent mixing.

You should buy a vette and put an L28 in it...great for a laugh.

You may want to migrate to Hybridz or zcar.com.

Is teflon tape on the 90degree water inlet a fix or just a preventative measure or to prevent different metals touching?

Lots of useful info in this thread http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/65445/Re_Caswell_Copy_Cad_Zinc_plati and this one of a z fan http://www.nulltime.com/zincplating/parts/index.html

The dual tip is because the car has been cut out for one. I am not sure about a glass pack yet. I'll have to drive it first. That glass pack should be fine for your Z

Nice report and photos. I wish it was this weekend.

$90 if you drop the book:http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/zinc-plating-kits/copy-cad-reg-and-zinc-plating-kit-1-5-gal.html

Forget about the shiny links. These are used for installing a new timing chain and are typically only seen aligning then (unless you are lucky). They do line up but it occurs every xxx revolutions... it is sort of like looking at the moon and every now and then things are aligned and you see an eclipse. The way to check timing chain stretch is to get the engine at Top Dead Centre (TDC)... usually the damper pulley degree marking is fine for finding TDC. Then look through the cam sprocket to see where the triangle aligns with the dimple in the fixed plate. Here is a close-up: And the full monty:

The timing chain slack is controlled by an oil pressure driven "timing chain tensioner". I don't think there is much oil pressure and oil flow when cranking with just the starter (~ 200rpm) so you will not see the slack taken up by the tensioner. Slack is different from chain stretch. The slack can be caused by any or all of : timing chain guide wear timing chain stretch migration of timing chain guides incorrectly installed guides incorrectly installed tensioner The specification for installing the chain (with no oil pressure) is "no slack" but I have seen many instances of incorrect installation resulting in slack. It is common. If you are concerned, you can take off the front cover, inspect and re-adjust the guides and tensioner.

It is normal. You may wish to wrap your pvc hose in a foil or similar heat shield material if you choose not to replace it.

Thanks! I missed that one when I looked at SR. It looks perfect

You could not have stated it any better... when they do that small slip,it is startling and can hurt flesh or metal if one does not pay attention.

A good scrub with a plastic or soft brass wire brush to clean off the dirt from the threads, holes, margins and surfaces before removing any part is a good practise. It will also allow a penetrating spray to easily reach the margins rather than be blocked or absorbed. Don't go too aggressively and brush off the plating. Clean surfaces also allow tools to connect properly without marring/slipping. Clean threads are an absolute must when removing tapered thread nuts. For cotter pins, try to get the two sides parallel and wrinkle free like a new pin, then push through only a wee bit, you can then stick an object through the round hole at the other end and pry it out.

For once FOX seems to have less spin than usual. I would have expected a Hummer as #1 I looked at the Healey Wiki page and saw this interesting shape from '61. A year before the 250GTO.

Here is the kit: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEC27/15-6309 Dimensionally, this is what I need: Can anyone recommend one?

Did you consider a P90 head? If so, what made you go with the N42?

Check Section BE-2 (Body Electrical) in 78FSM. It shows and describes all wiring harnesses.

Congrats!! Looking forward to pics. Wow 127, 137, and 147 are all in Canada. I bet there are more and 117 will be the next given the sequence.

Congrats on getting SN #147... you scooped it from Ross and I. Best Wishes and Grrrrrrrrr you owe me beer for that next time we meet! 147 beer. Philip

Impressive. I look forward to following this thread. You are now a "pioneer" with that transplant!