240260280z

Thanks Rich! I appreciate your tips and will add these. It will make life better for all of us following in your foot steps!

I spent a few hours scouring the net for Copy Cad plating tips and assembled into a PDF. Sorry it is currently net parroting as I never used the Caswell kit yet (I only plated with a self-made kit). I will revise as I get feedback from others and from experience with the kit that just arrived today. Enjoy! [ATTACH]54157[/ATTACH] Caswell Copy CAD Plating Tips V1.0.pdf

He Dan! How is your resto? Put some pics up too!

Most drown it out with ITB's or Webbers/Mikunis/Solex

Remove carbs and soak in a bucket of carb cleaner for a few days.

North east usa? Are you near NJ or Ma?

I could only get the parts from old junk yard z's. Only the complete switch (part number 46100-U5200) is available on line for ~ $175 USD. You may have to get a couple of used ones to refresh and rebuild into a good one as they are usually rusted and gunked-up inside. Here is a great image I just found: And if you need the rear proportioning valve for an early z just $20 right now on ebay: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/71-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-BRAKE-JUNCTION-CONNECTOR-BLOCKS-/170860083474?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c80df912#ht_500wt_970

When reassembling the front end, put everything together very loose then torque to spec. in a logical and balanced fashion. The loose parts allow you to easily fasten all hardware. For example: If you tighten the t/c rod to chassis to spec. before attaching the other end to the control arm, well...have fun. To again take it to the next level, paint mark your torqued hardware as you finish each bolt/nut. This will allow you to check for loosening in the future.

If you want to go one better, buy a metric die and tap set and go crazy...you will wonder why you waited so long to take it to the "next level".

it is a digression of warning that is related to the first post. Very nice looking seat cover for very low price....careful, it could be like those pot-metal turbos or fake webers now on the market. This should get it back on track: Ricer Crowd Down Unda Review: http://www.3si.org/forum/f155/fs-front-leather-seat-covers-530117/ The real company and lower price and lower shipping than on EBay: http://www.interior-innovations.com/

And 35V vs 50V

Datsun 1500 (U620) Pickup Honda Ridgeline

The seats look great but with most products these days, it is buyer beware as some have learned how to polish a turd very well. I am with Jim... waiting for a report.

1. I believe the 240z's proportioning valve is just a fixed orifice to reduce pressure to the rear brakes so that they do not lock before the front do.... pull your ebrake when cornering (preferably in a huge parking lot with snow) just to experience this effect. The proportioning valve could be incorporated in the master but it must be placed after the differential brake pressure switch that Zed Head mentions above(otherwise the pressure difference with cause the switch to falsely trigger). 2. Was answered by Zed Head. To add to it, the fluids to the back and front never mix. The differential brake pressure switch has a plunger between the front and back systems that gets pushed when one of the systems leaks and looses fluid and pressure. The plunger has seals that prevent mixing.

You should buy a vette and put an L28 in it...great for a laugh.

You may want to migrate to Hybridz or zcar.com.

Is teflon tape on the 90degree water inlet a fix or just a preventative measure or to prevent different metals touching?

Lots of useful info in this thread http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/65445/Re_Caswell_Copy_Cad_Zinc_plati and this one of a z fan http://www.nulltime.com/zincplating/parts/index.html

The dual tip is because the car has been cut out for one. I am not sure about a glass pack yet. I'll have to drive it first. That glass pack should be fine for your Z

Nice report and photos. I wish it was this weekend.

$90 if you drop the book:http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/zinc-plating-kits/copy-cad-reg-and-zinc-plating-kit-1-5-gal.html

Forget about the shiny links. These are used for installing a new timing chain and are typically only seen aligning then (unless you are lucky). They do line up but it occurs every xxx revolutions... it is sort of like looking at the moon and every now and then things are aligned and you see an eclipse. The way to check timing chain stretch is to get the engine at Top Dead Centre (TDC)... usually the damper pulley degree marking is fine for finding TDC. Then look through the cam sprocket to see where the triangle aligns with the dimple in the fixed plate. Here is a close-up: And the full monty:

The timing chain slack is controlled by an oil pressure driven "timing chain tensioner". I don't think there is much oil pressure and oil flow when cranking with just the starter (~ 200rpm) so you will not see the slack taken up by the tensioner. Slack is different from chain stretch. The slack can be caused by any or all of : timing chain guide wear timing chain stretch migration of timing chain guides incorrectly installed guides incorrectly installed tensioner The specification for installing the chain (with no oil pressure) is "no slack" but I have seen many instances of incorrect installation resulting in slack. It is common. If you are concerned, you can take off the front cover, inspect and re-adjust the guides and tensioner.

It is normal. You may wish to wrap your pvc hose in a foil or similar heat shield material if you choose not to replace it.