240260280z

Bead blast it. It looks bent but I never looked closely at one. This one looks straight:

On some versions with the spring retention clips, the seal is not so good due to weak spring. Also if the fuel is too high, it may slosh through the main circuit.

Some Webers leak where aux venturi couples to the body of the carb and fuel passes through to the main circuit.

about the bead blasting... weird. My throttle linkage was horrible until I took it all apart, cleaned and lubed. When I reassembled it, I made sure there was no play on the "pulling" direction when pressing the gas pedal. I figured, the slop in the return direction would be handled by the return springs. It made the car so much more drive-able.

I think they are important as they prolong the life of rings and valve seals by preventing high rpm vacuum condition that will suck oil past the seals and rings. Rebuild makes sense. You may be able to refresh tears in the diaphragms with improvised patches. 3m spray adhesive and paper can patch a ripped up speaker so there should be some way to revive a BCDD.

Some cleaners leave orange deposits on plugs that you may wish to clean.

In other parts of the world, the 260z moniker continued; but in North America, the 260z certainly seems like a transitional object and a way to use up 240z parts while transitioning to the 280z given the difference between early and late 260's and their respective similarities between 240z and 280z. I understand that safety and pollution regulations were the main drivers for the NA changes. I wonder if the early 260z's in other regions of the world also transitioned in a similar fashion and how regulations in those regions caused changes? (take wing/fender lights for example)

Ohh yeah.... get a big pail and fill it with this for soaking: http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoBodyRepair1/AutoBodyRustControl/PRD~0477902P/Evapo-Rust.jsp?locale=en

And only cut out and weld one side at a time. Ohhh we are all looking over your shoulder and envious...that is a fine car and project you have there sir! We'll get you through it!

Here is the assembly coming out of the dash on a 1971 Jan 240z. You can see the green and black leads taped back with blue tape. This is in front of the fuse panel.

Another good Weber parts vendor: http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/ Lowest price synchronizer tool too: http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Synchronizer_p/43-5712-0.htm And another: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/advcat.asp?CategoryID=WEBERCARBNPTS

beautiful blue colour!

When you install, ensure that your linkage from the pedal does not try to turn the throttle valve plates past 90 degrees or you can twist the DCOE's shaft. The setting for the linkage should be that the pedal hits the floor just before the throttle valve plate is fully opened. Welcome to Weber.

I believe it can be seen in the last 3 photos. It connects to the damper that directs fresh/recycled air. Use the fan that is also inside that assembly for orientation. You can follow the cable in this photo:

It will be.

Interesting.I did not know the dash fit in a 510?

You have a hawk eye sir Arne Mitsu-Colt actually.... but I bet you knew that! Hopefully they will drive the 1000mi from NJ to NS where some wider wheels wait.... weird reverse stagger to the wheels. Designed to go backwards.