240260280z

To check your FPR,disconnect the vac. line to it then run the fuel pump. It should read ~36psi with the engine off.

The ECU controls how long an injector is open (time only). The fuel pressure affects how much fuel will flow during that "open time". You can adjust the AFM or temp sensor to increase the "on time" that an injector is open but if your FPR is not working, then your system may be out of the sweet spot where it is optimized to work. I am not sure how this will affect your cold start problem. The fact your car ran better with higher fuel pressure seems to indicate it needs more fuel.

Welcome!

That is the beauty!

They are great. Not too hard to change and you do not have to do it all at once. Start with easy ones first. Get the 240z kit for a 240z and 280z kit for a 280z.

Maybe adjust dash pot and/or bcdd to try and fix the off throttle bog before warm up.

ROFLMAO I forgot about that one and the commentary. I think I was too honest.... but Vulcans can not speak untruths. Maybe if he mounted the roof on the hood it would have counterbalanced the hood on the roof. "Creeps me out!" "I like it!"

You will need the distributor and the ignition module. The rest can go: AFM Injectors TVS FPR Fuel Rail ECU Electrical Harness Dropping resistors AAR You may also need a vacuum reservoir-type device for powering the brake booster.

Actually I think Arne should have gone for the middle one as it looks like the bastard child of his white Porsche and his Z. Hell why not throw in the Ferrari 250 GTOh air ducts too.

That is ugliest Z.... even uglier than this or this

Big Brake

- lower fuel pressure (change pump from high pressure to low pressure) -regulate fuel pressure to ~4 psi - Install fuel cut-off safety mechanism Remove -manifold - efi components

A back fire in the intake will slam the flap shut and could damage it. An escape path for the gases is through the AFM bypass passage for setting idle a/f mix.I guess that was not enough so the bypass valve is needed. It only comes into play when the plugs are wired wrong and fuel is ignited in the cylinder/runner when the intake valve is open. Sorry to read the AFM adjustment did not do it. It seemed promising. An intermittent bcdd problem or a wiring problem could be the issue.

Your plugs have interesting bands on the ground straps. It may have to do with timing. I found this on the net so I am not sure how accurate it is however do some searches on what 280z EFI plugs should look like and also double check your timing.

The plug wire order should be like this: Plug 1 is at the front of the motor near the fan, plug 6 is at the windshield. Your battery is probably weak/old and trying to start so many times with the cold most likely drained it. If the voltage is 12.0V it is dead,if the voltage is 12.8V it is fully charged. The car probably backfired because of wrong plug order. Check against the diagram above....however sometimes past owners mess up the distributor alignment by 180 degress so instead of 1-5-3-6-3-4 in the photo above, you need to go 6-3-4-1-5-3. [ Put the real wire to plug 6 where it shows plug 1 in the photo and so on]

yeah! You got it. I'll ring you now.

Racebird, I am so glad to read your post and to know the crazy calibration tests I did many years ago are helping others! Thanks for your data too above.... good stuff in it for the Z community!

My money is there too.

the CO may have nailed it. A quick way to check would be to "finger the AFM" upon cold start. If you rotate the AFM away from the stop, it will add more fuel but not air. If it is a lean condition then adding more fuel should bring your idle up. Unfortunately AFM's usually age and add too much fuel due to a weaker spring. To clarify the BCCD tests above, what I meant was to do the cold morning start then hit the brakes if you don't normally do this to see if there is a difference but alternatively if you did hold the brake on start, then don't do it and see what happens... sort of a probing... but I think I now recall the bccd may be controlled by vacuum and electricity.

Was this their web site: before: http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:0zHCmfQm2jsJ:www.designproductsracing.com/driveline.html+http://www.designproductsracing.com/driveline.html&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=ca now: http://www.designproductsracing.com/driveline.html

Wow Jim nailed it. The system does drone horribly and the common solution is a glass pack installed in the transmission tunnel.

Do you hit the brake pedal when you start the car? I am wondering if it is the BCCD? We seem to have ruled out the main items. Thought Review: The only way to change engine RPM that I know of is: timing and air (assume fuel would bog it out for now) If we rule out timing (for now) then the only devices/adjusters for getting more air into the manifold are: 1. Accelerator pedal and linkage to throttle valve 2. Throttle valve stop screw 3. Idle speed adjustment screw in throttle body 4. AAR 5. BCCD 6. leaks 7. Dash pot hysteresis 8. Drive line drag A sticking AFM flap could also limit air flow but it is not likely given your blip test which would kick it in the pants. So we are left with BCCD,drag and leaks since you checked everything else. If we rule out drag and leaks then BCCD is the one. Next time you start,do not hit brake, or hit brake or punch brake (you know what I mean). Se if it affects rpm. Aslo reach under BCCD and turn the adjustment to see if it makes a difference. I am grasping at straws. Philip

To check the linkage you could also blip-stab the throttle for 1/2 second when starting to see if the rpm's rise on release (as opposed to the 10-20 second pressing mentioned above).