240260280z

You can still purchase many from the nissan dealership.... or scavenge from a parts car.

If the above does not help: EZ 1: Does it feel like the stick is not swinging far enough to the right? Could be slop in the linkage. Difficult 1: Damaged internal mechanism... I had this with a 4 speed I rebuilt last year: check post #3 here http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42884-FS4W71A-Transmission-Assembly-Photos-(Jan-1971-240z)

Exciting Fights Tigers Seals Polar Bears Nudist Beach Trampoline Canoes Soccer Double Exposed dingy and datsuns racing on the water Datsuns Thanks!

10 degrees to 15 degrees at idle (850rpm) with no vac advance during the measurement is a good starting point.

Pull a spark plug one at a time to see if a cylinder is not working....your idle should drop the same for each plug you pull. You can also do this test with injector connectors. Did you adjust electrical timing with a timing light?

If your plugs are black then it is possible the connections to the water temp sensor need attention.

Actually all of the zeros look the same in the pics I inserted ... sort of like a teardrop... so they look to be stamped from an engraved stamp master. Likewise the soft curvy "L" with a hooked end looks the same.

Yup,I checked earlier Z's and they also have the strange sloppy-font stamps. It would be interesting to know when they changed over to cleaner stamps. The zero's look like tear drops.

Why revive this thread after more than a year? Content and archives baby. This is a big database.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/members/gabringuette/index.html

The VIN number on the firewall looks like the "HLS30-000" part is a very different font from the "22" font. The size of the rivets on the dash seem bigger than on vin 48 http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/members/gabringuette/index.html Take a good look if you plan to buy it.

Sir I dub thee an honorary Canadian.

Thanks, that was great... felt sorry for the tr8 in second.

Most Canadians I know pronounce DAT as "DAT" which is like "RAT" .Most Americans I know seem so pronounce DAT as "DOT". How do the rest of the English speaking regions pronounce it? FYI I also say Mazda with Ma like Macaroni but my friends in Upper Canada say Ma like "Maw" as in Mom.

I saw an orange 240z when in Regina and left a note but no response. I know a guy at SaskTel who has a Lotus Europa... that's as much as I can help. Welcome!

I now think it is a vacuum leak because at WOT the manifold and engine bay vacuum/pressure difference approaches 0. However, with the partial throttle opening under light acceleration, the manifold vacuum will increase with rpm and more air will flow into the manifold down stream from the throttle valve due to the increased vacuum with RPM . This plot of the data shows it:

Attached is a pdf detailing the strange beastie: flat top with side fuel bowl HJL38W.pdf

Hitachi Flat tops from ~ 1973-1974 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2388737/1974-datsun-260z#23887370010

A quick and dirty to make sure you get more than enough fuel: Do another WOT run and measure A/F Drop the jets two full turns then repeat the WOT run.... hopefully the A/F will go below 14. You can also idle and measure the A/F then pull the choke and see if the a/f drops

Perfect. That means you either have a manifold leak or carb issue. Did you try spraying a solvent at all margins and hoses/caps of the manifold to see if idle rpm's increase? This is a quick way to check for a leak.

Actually the WOT plot is very flat. Does the car have a smog pump or cat upstream from the O2 sensor?

The data shows that you are lean when applying light pedal and normal with heavy pedal (WOT). I assume there was no popping with the heavy pedal? If so then that rules out ignition. The carbs should roughly perform the same for light pedal and heavy pedal. Since there is more manifold vacuum with your light pedal the first thing that comes to mind is that the leanness may be due to a vacuum leak in the manifold which is neutralized at WOT. But if there is no vacuum leak then the problem is that your carbs are not metering fuel properly. I would recommend that you set the jets lower so that your light pedal A/F is lower. With both light pedal and heavy you go leaner A/F at higher RPMS. This can be the SU piston rising too quickly or the needle taper not metering properly . You can experiment by doubling the springs in the domes to slow the piston rise (for more venturi pullon the fuel) (or add weight inside the dome). Or conversly you can remove the springs forlesspressure so that the piston risesquicker and exposes more fuel. You can also try pushing the SM needles deeper into the SU piston to increase the fuel exposure with piston lift to try and get more fuel in the upper rpms (raising needleis similar to dropping the jets but the exit point of the fuel is higher) . Reference: