240260280z

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kammback

Thanks Dan!

Not many desirable components on a 280z motor so sell it as 1. $200-$500 You may be able to sell the head on ebay $100-$300 but then you gotta find a local buyer for the block. If you wanted to get max $ then you gotta disassemble it, clean up the parts, take pretty photos and do the ebay thing... lot of work.

Ah ha, I dug deeper and found that you had the same problem in 2008 and fixed it with a distributor cap and rotor, and now you say a ZT carb fixed it: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?31577-Revving-problem-is-solved!!&highlight= A lot of folks are trying to help you out but you gotta give us ALL THE DATA ....well just don't cry Wolf. Think you got slop in the spindle linking the oil pump to the distributor or in the gear drive off the snout of the crank. Get your buddy's Z over, pull the distributors like you did and compare how the tang at the end of the spindle move when wiggled,lifted,turned. Use a dial gauge rigged up to an extension out of the mounting for emperical measurements. Quick and dirty test that just came to mind: For ease and consistent measurments, use the same distributor on both cars locked down with a dial gauge on the rotor. Any slope in the distributor will be nulled out by using the same distributor. Also repeat this many times throughout a whole revolution of the crank as the problem could be a broken or worn tooth in the drive helical gear. Also try cranking with a socket at the crank back and forth while holding the rotor in your fingers to see how the tang behaves/feels between the two cars.

I don't think it is carbs. I think it is related to any of these -slop in the drive spindle to distributor - slop at crank gear to distributor drive spindle - mechanical timing not correct by PO (crank timing chain and cam) I re-read your early posts and this stuck with me: "Seems I have had this issue since I owned the car in some form of severity or another. When I first bought the car, it would simply NOT rev past 4500 rpm at all. Now I can get it to rev to 6500 rpm thanks to the Z therapy carbs, but now it is popping pretty bad on the top end. " Looks like the ZT carbs may have masked a deeper issue.

hahaha I am curious to know the cause (who/what) inspired this post. btw do you know an easy way to get the smell of 12 dead and decayed mice out of a 280z that sat in Nevada heat for many months?

Open Pandora's box.... go ahead: CLICK IF YOU DARE

You can also still browse the article here.... thank goodness for the NSA.... nothing we write goes unnoticed, unchecked and un-stored .... including this:) I like Tero's statement "My opinion is that if you can't press a clutch pedal you should be sitting at the back. "

A1. My guess is due to your asking.... maybe the 2 cylinders are sprayed at a different time from the 4 for performance or for instantaneous current limiting/distributing the draw from the battery. But as you mentioned... there is no association between the any injection pulse and a specific spark pulse for a cylinder because there is no cam position sensor or plug1 signal to sync the injector to a cylinder. A2. I am there,,,, maybe Sunday or next week. I will ring tomorrow Now back to cooking Chicken Beausejour

You will be happy! Keep us posted on your progress.

IfI recall,the transistors drive 4/2 rather than 3/3. I remember something odd...I'll dig tonight. There are current limiting resistors between the transistor's output and the injector's input. It all becomes more interesting the more you dig. btw why is a carb guy like you stirring it up here with EFI questions?

need photos and more details

Glad to help out. You can read and see pics here:http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension.htm

That is the 260/280 kit. If you have a 240z most of it will work but some items need to be trimmed. I would recommend that you also buy the ball and socket tension-compression rod kit rather than use the poly parts in the kit.

The injector driver transistors can be seen near the top of the circuit board photo. They are thermally connected to the ECU frame for cooling.

You have to make sure the needle valves in the fuel bowls are functioning. You also have to make sure the return line to the tank from the fuel rail is connected. The stock fuel pressure is ~ 3.5 to4.5psi so if your pump is putting out 7psi, it may overwhelm the old needles...especially if the return line is blocked off. Did you see fuel squirting before the fire? Try disconnecting the low voltage to the coil/ballast (to stop spark) and crank the car and watch for fuel leaks.

The connecting rod is threaded at the end making it adjustable. You may have to loosen the lock nut and turn the rod in or out to correctly set up the system. Read the factory service manual for details of the floor to pedal distance and so-called "free play".

My dad told me this advice "There millions of cars out there and there are always great cars to buy at great prices, be patient and wait....it will happen over and over again". This is especially true for Calif!

More EFI docs from my HD BOSCH L-Jetronic Injection Manual.pdf 280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

Lots of EFI info in the PDF's below. 280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf h22.pdf BMW EFI PPT.pdf Porsche 912 EFI.pdf h21.pdf efi_injectorservparts.pdf

In theory, individually synchronized injector events seems to be the ideal but from what I recall reading online, it does not seem to matter much...especially at high rpms. Here is the most detailed circuit info I have (from 75 280z manual's EF section)....sorry no board artwork or detailed schematics seem to be in the public domain.

CHECK OUT THE PDF BELOW NTB94-097 (Nissan ECU Guide).pdf

I can't find a schematic but here is a crude diagram and some geeky probing here:http://www.205gti.com/bosch/mods.htm

Popping through the exhaust is usually rich and popping through the intake is usually lean (or very bad spark scatter or improper timing or plug wire mix up).

Here is a pressure differential switch to get you in the zone: