240260280z

I spend winters in Nova Scotia and NJ. The salt and winter salt-laiden-water on roads is ~ 3/10 (my estimate) in NJ compared to 10/10 here in Nova Scotia. Maine is in between I would guess. Here is my Rav on a good winter day with just a light coating of salt. I live ~10km from the ocean... the poor b@stards who live in the water can hear their cars rust. WHERE DID THE ATTACH PIC TOOL GO?

Ziebart is messy and traps water underneath here near the North Atlantic Ocean. The oily waxy stuff is the way to go. I checked the rustcheck site and it mentions Kmart in the USA. You may be able to buy the cans and spray yourself. ~$10/can here.

Is it possible that your jets are at different depths? Try removing choke cable connections and manually verify that each jet rises and drops without binding when you activate the choke attachment on the carb by hand. This mechanism should move freely. You can also pull the domes and measure the jet depth with a caliper's depth gauge attachment. Set both by tweaking the knurled knob to the same depth by measurement at your specified number of turns down (i.e. Set one to X number of turns, measure the depth then set the other jet to the same depth using the caliper. (I assume your needles are set correctly so that the needle's shoulder is flush with the bottom of the piston...not flush with the base of the channel it sits in).

There is some resistance. I can't recall exactly what it is but I will dig out an AFM in my basement and measure today...oh I just looked at my files and measured it long ago. I'll check again to verify.

I watch the oil flow on every used Z I refresh to ensure no clogs. At idle is more of a dribble/weak flow but at higher RPM I assume it is a fairly pressurized stream (As it has been mentioned that oil pressure varies from 10psi to 90psi from idle to high rpm). I would guess that for the street where idling occurs a lot, having the close oiling would be required to ensure oiling of the cam lobes when the car sits and idles for up to an hour, however for a race car which is usually at higher rpms and with higher pressure/volume oiling system, the distance from the oil bar may not be critical.

Exactly what Mr Obvious and I speculated. Colortune seems to be more of a novelty item or a crutch for someone who can't set jet depth to spec and tweak via plug reading. As you mentioned above; reading the timing empirically with the correct tool made a difference. Likewise tuning with a O2 or similar gas analyzer will also take the magic out of tuning and give you real and useful data. btw Someone should make a clip-on knock sensor and that would be fabulous to finish the tuning tool list...dang I wish I could patent my ideas.... can you imagine a knock-tune plug ™ from Blue Industries (also specializing in films from Europe)! It would be a plug with a built in knock sensor (or a clip on to a plug) and a lead to an led array where 4/6/8 plugs can be viewed while tuning.

prolly

Hmmm you might take it to Canada. It is ~ $100 here. I just called called a shop close to you in Manchester,NH and they quoted $375 http://maps.google.ca/maps?hl=en&rlz=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=undercoating+maine&fb=1&gl=ca&hq=undercoating&hnear=0x4cb01dde1d538ad5:0xd679cc6f6720a8d0,Maine,+USA&ei=KgHxTsaiFOX00gHDscm-Ag&sa=X&oi=local_group&ct=image&ved=0CB4QtgM

I think they are simply UNclear on NUclear.

Recommended for all the Canucks: $11 http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/PowerToolAccessories/DrillBitsSetsAccessories/PRD~0543650P/Mastercraft+100-piece+HSS+Drill+Bit+Set.jsp?locale=en

Biggest battery you can fit with highest cranking amp rating will help.

I am an optimist in that what we have is perfectly good...it just needs to be slightly re-formed and "optimized" and unified. The English language certainly can use an overhaul to become more efficient and compact. Contractions such as "you are" becoming "you're" becoming "u r" is somewhat evolutionary but the rules are still chaotic and need to be set and adhered to. I am also in favour of 1 global currency and a flat income tax based on the total of the previous years spending divided by the sum of all salaries and revenue....but hey I am from another time.

The test two measures between the wiper in the 0 rpm position and the start of the carbon trace. The circuit board has surface mount resistors that are in series AND in parallel with the carbon trace in a ladder pattern. From the FI manual, it appears there is a resistor between pins 7&8 so that would give you a resistance reading. For a visual inspection, just check to see if the wiper is tracking properly on the carbon trace and ensure that the wiper/flap assembly is returning all the the way "closed"

"Yet" There is always "down the road":) Merry Christmas

http://datsunzgarage.com/rebuild/index.htm

Dang you must thank yourself... you did the real work and succeeded! Congrats! Now from your theoretical 3 cyl. mule to an applied 3cyl. mule: Your next gas-compressor in your garage will be an L28/2. Just connect the rear 3 spark plug holes and rear three exhaust plenum out to feed a 1-way valve to your tank.

Yes, they have a reputation for this. There are modern products that help like Rustcheck and Krown... avoid Ziebart. I am presently restoring a 71 240z that was driven in the winters in NB & NS until~ '75 so it is not like all Z's will dissolve in the winter but they don't stand up like modern cars do.

Oh yeah... don't drive like the guys in the video... it is all about traction, momentum and intelligence... sort of missing all 3 in that one.

You should get the underside and rails sprayed with Krown or Rust Check. Just go to Walmart and get cheap General or Nexen tires with studs. Driving tips: Brake before entering corners. Accelerate slowly. When stuck try not to spin tires. Start in 2nd gear to move forward "gently" or rock the car in fwd/rev. On icy hills drive with passenger side in gravel for better traction Lots of wiper fluid for the salt coated glass (especially in the spring when it is ice at night then salt water in day) Carry candles,matches,food if you are driving into a storm...especially on rt 9 (airport road ) btw I drive through maine about once every few months, are you anywhere near I95?

Excellent! That is fast progress. Impressive. I guess you know an LD28 cranks gets ~$400 on the street here in North America... get a few of those and your project is fully funded if you can freight them across the pacific

Be careful with car fax. It showed the minor fender bender (front right) on my S2000 but not the running up on a curb to push the rad support back on the drivers side nor whatever caused a PO to replace the driver's door. Look the car over carefully.

I like white Z's like yours as it is the national racing colour of Japan. Watch the movie "Grand Prix" with James Garner and you will like white even more.

Looks great Dan!

Is the fuel rail hooked up correctly? They are usually 1 way. I found out through a very good friend Get NGK plugs.

All of the above Drain tank and see what comes out (there is a drain bolt usually on the bottom). Ensure pump and Fuel Pressure Regulator are working fine. Also check the ignition system. The ignition modules usually fail from heat. When they are dying, once cooled down (after the car sits for a while, they work fine untilhot again)