240260280z

What's a garage?

It goes to any of the screws at the firewall. Try to connect it to one holding the coil bracket

I think you mean the evap. line? If so,you ran it that far why not finish the job and vent it to the intake via the flow switch?

Wish I had $20k then I would have a Porsche: http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/2702441036.html

I think that a fuel primer bulb between the tank and the pump would be a good thing.

Another fun day Bruce! FYI: We took apart a power valve and looked it over closely (Thanks SteveJ that carb is finally under the knife). The power valve it is just a valve that opens off throttle when the manifold vacuum drops. It allows additional fuel from the bowl to be drawn through a small jet by vacuum. The nozzle is low just after the bridge so it will most likely spray fuel when the throttle opens quickly just before the piston starts to rise and possibly after the piston rises (IF there is sufficient vaccumto draw the fuel).We will have to measure when the weather is good. We also noticed a circular step in the back of the throat of the flat top (but not in the round). It looks like a weber choke is in there:

Saw a 2CV leaving NYC last week. It sure leaned in the corners. Got a friend with a 912. I have yet to drive a Porsche. I'll have to pester him. The nicest driving car for me has been another friends 300zx TT with HICAS... it is like a lear jet going through corners... swooosh.

I built some bicycle wheels in the past. Not difficult at all.... I imagine this would be the same task so long as the spokes are not rusted into the spoke nipples. If you are going to strip and paint or strip and plate (Chrome,nickel or (zinc/cad base)) then pb blast the spokes for a week before disassembling.

I think it is a moot point. So long as the gears are lubed is the main thing.... filling to the spec and not reaching the drain hole, or over filling the spec. and reaching the drain hole depth seems to have little difference from reports here and from inspection of the drawings. As for oil at the base of the shifter.... was it poured in by past owner to lubricate or did it sling out? I think the first.

You will next buy an O2 unit ..... do not resist the force

Seems like your rear differential mount has failed.

Go to the kitchen department of any Target or dollar store and get the anti-slip placemat rubber stuff that comes in a roll. No need to glue, rivet, velcro, nail or other at all. It looks like this and comes in many colours

Diplomatic words spoken by someone who is torn between offending Porsche owners and Z owners.

Even beating the stig's namesake from top gear results:http://www.eastafricansafarirally.com/2011/Results%20EASCR%202011%20-%20%20Unofficial%20Provisional%20Classification%20Day%208.pdf

I have read that kyb's and lowering springs have problems but you will have to measure excursions to ensure that this is not internet wives tales. If you have issues, you can install 280z rear shock mounts to increase strut extension. Maybe double up bump stops too if and strut compressing too far is the problem.

~14.5" is norm in early 70's for unsprung front and rear. 8.5turns in front and 10.5 in the rear. The rear spring in the photo is 8 turns so 2.5 coils and ~3.5"(extrapolated as 2.5/10.5) seem to be missing......so they look like cut stock rear springs. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/springs/index.html

No need to mess with the AFM idle bypass (black cap) at this time. Its purpose is for emissions at idle. If you have a multimeter, you can measure the resistance of the temp sensor at the thermostat then measure it where it connects to the ECU at the driver kick panel. The resistance should be similar.

I read about a mechanic who hid foam in the air filter enclosure to "de-rate" the motor. After his son drove for half a year, his father took the car and "tuned" the car by removing the hidden foam and giving it an extra 50hp.His son was amazed at his father's abilities.

Read through these and you will find teh details you need,especially the diode Steve mentions1 (Happy Thanksgiving Steve) http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/260z_alternator_swap_706058.0.html http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/280zx_260z_alternator_swap_703972.0.html http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/260z_special_wiring_alternator_swap_701092.0.html

I did a 74 but never posted the details. Most of the info is here. I recall having to solder in a diode. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html

On 280z's, a common problem are the electrical connections in the EFI system. The main culprit for fuel fouled plugs is the pigtail to the temperature sensor at the thermostat housing. Read these two links and you will understand better. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/runningrich/index.html (read the stuff below the dyno graph) http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html You should also use NGK plugs.

Sometimes it is the ignition module that is the cause of this. Watch the tach the next time it chuggs to a stop.If the needle drops to 0 before the engine does then it is an electrical ignition problem.