240260280z

The test two measures between the wiper in the 0 rpm position and the start of the carbon trace. The circuit board has surface mount resistors that are in series AND in parallel with the carbon trace in a ladder pattern. From the FI manual, it appears there is a resistor between pins 7&8 so that would give you a resistance reading. For a visual inspection, just check to see if the wiper is tracking properly on the carbon trace and ensure that the wiper/flap assembly is returning all the the way "closed"

"Yet" There is always "down the road":) Merry Christmas

http://datsunzgarage.com/rebuild/index.htm

Dang you must thank yourself... you did the real work and succeeded! Congrats! Now from your theoretical 3 cyl. mule to an applied 3cyl. mule: Your next gas-compressor in your garage will be an L28/2. Just connect the rear 3 spark plug holes and rear three exhaust plenum out to feed a 1-way valve to your tank.

Yes, they have a reputation for this. There are modern products that help like Rustcheck and Krown... avoid Ziebart. I am presently restoring a 71 240z that was driven in the winters in NB & NS until~ '75 so it is not like all Z's will dissolve in the winter but they don't stand up like modern cars do.

Oh yeah... don't drive like the guys in the video... it is all about traction, momentum and intelligence... sort of missing all 3 in that one.

You should get the underside and rails sprayed with Krown or Rust Check. Just go to Walmart and get cheap General or Nexen tires with studs. Driving tips: Brake before entering corners. Accelerate slowly. When stuck try not to spin tires. Start in 2nd gear to move forward "gently" or rock the car in fwd/rev. On icy hills drive with passenger side in gravel for better traction Lots of wiper fluid for the salt coated glass (especially in the spring when it is ice at night then salt water in day) Carry candles,matches,food if you are driving into a storm...especially on rt 9 (airport road ) btw I drive through maine about once every few months, are you anywhere near I95?

Excellent! That is fast progress. Impressive. I guess you know an LD28 cranks gets ~$400 on the street here in North America... get a few of those and your project is fully funded if you can freight them across the pacific

Be careful with car fax. It showed the minor fender bender (front right) on my S2000 but not the running up on a curb to push the rad support back on the drivers side nor whatever caused a PO to replace the driver's door. Look the car over carefully.

I like white Z's like yours as it is the national racing colour of Japan. Watch the movie "Grand Prix" with James Garner and you will like white even more.

Looks great Dan!

Is the fuel rail hooked up correctly? They are usually 1 way. I found out through a very good friend Get NGK plugs.

All of the above Drain tank and see what comes out (there is a drain bolt usually on the bottom). Ensure pump and Fuel Pressure Regulator are working fine. Also check the ignition system. The ignition modules usually fail from heat. When they are dying, once cooled down (after the car sits for a while, they work fine untilhot again)

Say hi to Kammy!

I found the quarters to be a 2 person job. 1 to push in and one to fix those wee screws. Some soapy water on the opening helps a lot. Sorry this info is late, but the next poor bloke doing the job may read this. Nice car!

Yeah use cutting oil or similar for sure and take your time. Try to drill from vertical if possible and do not put any side forces on the bit when drilling.

http://www.americanelements.com/nioxp.html

times r a chang'n

Some quick carb theory: There are two forces holding your SU's pistons down at any time: 1. Gravity (constant) 2. Spring pressure F~kx + delta x (where delta x is the excursion) There is one force lifting your piston up: 1. Venturi Vacuum The carb is supposed to be constant velocity air flow through the bridge/piston venturi from idle to WOT but I don't think it is (I plan to measure and model winter/spring time) IF's - if the piston is too heavy or the spring is too strong then the piston will rise less for each cfm flowing - if the piston seal is poor then the vaccum lift will be weaker and the piston will rise less for each cfm flowing - if the piston is lower than spec at a specific cfm then the venturi effect will be greater and pull more on the piston to self correct but it will always be lower than spec AND the greater venturi effect will also pull more fuel through the orifice. So if you want to lean out at higher rpms, you have to alter the needle and at the same time balance how high the piston is at a particular rpm. The two parameters are intertwined. I think the first step to understanding these beasties is to find at what rpm the piston maxes out and hits the roof. Should it be at max RPM or before? I hope to explore. If the piston maxes prior to max rpm then the venturi will draw more fuel between these points AND it is a restriction to airflow & power. If the piston maxes at max rpm then the venturi should be CV across the rpm range. Needles will have to be cut for each variation. In your case, the richness above 4000 may be addressed by shooting an in-engine compartment video of your piston height vs rpm (use a remote USB camera).Check to see where the piston height is.

You'll be over for dinner? http://youtu.be/m3N5l-URMJw

What month 77?(on driver door pillar plate) How many wires to oil pump sensor (next to oil filter). 1 or 2

to The "how to rebuild..." book references enlarging the oil passage to the head. Maybe that is what Reb. does to increase flow to both oilers.

What month is you 77? I think they switched from afm to fuel pump switch in May of 77 . After that it would be the oil pressure switch controlling fuel pump

Do you have spark? If you have an early77 then the vane switch in the AFM should be checked as it enable/disables the fuel pump.