240260280z

Aftermarket door switches but you get the idea: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?43775-Door-Switch-Photos&highlight=article+door+switch

Clubs have so many different members that you don't have to worry about that. Here is what I have noticed in clubs: 1. Core "buddies" who keep it going. 2. Folks you see once then never again 3. Ricers 4. Racers (Track, drag,circle) 5. Hawkers who have parts for sale (most are extremely generous with support and sharing knowledge but you get the occasional profit driven greedy person but hey,... they can get the goods so in the end it is bearable.) 6. Professionals who bring their (usually) free support to help club members (machinists, lawyers, heavy machinery, insurance,enginneers auto-industry (painting, repairs, shop owners, Nissan garage owners,Dyno owners). 7. Crazies 8. Lurkers 9. Average Joes/Josephines It is beneficial to join a club in a logical opportunistic way to tap into all of the above opportunities but it is more satisfying if you also have something to bring... it is a socialist, communist, symbiotic, parasitic thing with democracy thrown in for the executive stuff Can't beat that mix!

My Z had similar numbers when I got it and ran "ok". Adjusting the valves, and de-carboning the chambers may help bump up compression an additional ~10-15psi. If you are not losing rad fluid, if the plugs look ok, if the oil looks ok, and there are no unusual sounds then you should be good. FYI white smoke at start-up is usually 3 things: 1. overnight condensation in your exhaust system evaporating 2. water vapor from the combustion process condensing due to the cold exhaust system. 3. water vapor from the combustion process condensing due to the cold ambient air (more pronounced on cold mornings (especially in winter)). Once the exhaust system comes up to temperature, the white smoke decreases. Unless you see white smoke all the time and are losing radiator fluid, don't worry.

Join a local club. Lots of enthusiasts who can help you out or recommend good shops. The problem with these cool old cars is that most shops don't take the care required,or give a d@mn to properly diagnose and repair.Quite often they just butcher.

Read all 5 pages of this thread then Google DIY Zinc Plating http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/65465/1

Find one that says "Made in Japan".

CLICK

You can view the page at http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?160-1971-240z-License-Plate-Lamp-Photos

You can view the page at http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?161-Rain-Gutter-Drip-Rail-Removal-and-Installation

You can view the page at http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?157-Hatch-Vent-Trim-Installation

You can view the page at http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?158-Refreshing-Hatch-Vent-on-early-240z

You can view the page at http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?162-Lubricating-Refreshing-Cables

Yeah if it has an E31 head or brass seats then they may be pushed up into the head making it difficult to set the lash and seal. If this is the case,you will need to: 1. Do a valve job and use shorter lash pads 2. New seats and valve job

Key points to understand the functioning: 1. The Bleed-Back/Spill jet sits at the bottom of the fuel bowl. 2. When the throttle valve is closed (idle), fuel enters the bleed-back valve, flows past the ball bearing valve and fills the pump chamber as the rod is pushing the piston is up high in the pump chamber and the spring compressed. Weights atop the two other ball bearing valves keep them closed and prevents fuel from flowing out of the two jets. 3. When the throttle is opened quickly, the rod drops and the spring pushes the piston down. This forces fuel backwards. The ball bearing in the spill jet is forced upward and closes this valve preventing fuel from back flowing into the fuel bowl. The pressure also lifts the other two ball bearings and corresponding weights (opening these valves) and allows the squirt of fuel to shoot out each pump jet. 4. The diameter of the pump jet holes, the length of the piston's excursion, and the spring tension affect how much fuel is squirt and the time duration of the squirt. 5. When the throttle is opened slowly, the rod also drops but the fuel squirts slowly back into the fuel bowl as the ball bearing valve in the bleed-back/spill valve is designed to "bleed" on slow throttle transitions. In fact the progression circuit is designed to be the key supplier of fuel during slow throttle transitions...however some fuel will inevitably go through the pump jets. Size of the bleed back valves, accelerator ball bearing weights and piston spring pressure are the key factors in how "leaky" the pump jets are in slow to medium transitions and also can be customized for normal fast transition squirts. Accelerator pump rods and springs can come in different sizes. A notable Weber user on this site recommends 10mm rod throws for Datsuns. The pump jet. Note the a very very small washer/gasket accompanies this part and comes with most rebuild kits. Back-Bleed/Spill Jet that sits at the bottom of the fuel bowl

For bleeding the master hook a small hose to side of master and run it to the reservoir.The recycles the fluid and makes less mess.

Try Mothers or Meguiars products for car cleaning that are commonly available at Autozone,Pepboys,Walmart. Find one that states "for road tar"

Found These: Front: http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/product_info.php?productID=11222 Rear: http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/product_info.php?productID=3985

I read good reviews of these pads from "down under" 6 years ago and put a set on my Z. Had it on the track once and no fade but I was not pushing like you: PBR Metal Masters http://www.pbrperformance.com.au/performance.htm

Progression holes can be viewed from above by simply removing a threaded brass cap. This inspection is important for setting the throttle valve position at idle as it should be at or behind the first progression hole. In this photo,you can see that the throttle valve is blocking the first of the three progression holes. It is a wee bit too far forward as it should only block~ 1/2 or less.

Very nice.

Idle Circuit Drawings Idle Mix Screw Idle Mix Hole Note that it is on manifold vacuum side of the throttle valve and is subjected to a large pressure difference that pulls the air/fuel mixture from this hole. Some air also flows by the throttle valve at idle to dilute this mixture.

Thanks, I am in the same boat but now I am starting to put it all together in my head so I figured that I would make a tutorial thread. I am no where near the expert level that I want to be (yet) but I am presently getting hands-on experience and delving into the theory in parallel so that I am not "parroting" too much For the rest of this thread, I'll add similar details for each circuit, add some rebuilding details, then compile some tuning info specific to Z motors.

Now some drawings showing the Main Circuit and its components.

It came with the car. I believe it was an msa aero 2 kit w/o the side parts (here). I sold the parts and now have a gnose and open back. http://www.ridejudge.com/ride/38427/1977-nissan-datsun

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?43162-What-is-best-way-to-add-an-electric-fuel-pump-to-early-240z&highlight=fuel+pump+oil+switch