240260280z

I used Fusion plastic paint on the centre console. The heater control panel was ok. For refreshing the heater control panel: Remove the wire control assembly in the back along with the knobs (screws underneath) then try cleaning yours with a scrub brush in the sink. Follow up with black marker to spot out the chrome flecks peeking through and use 3M or similar plastic polish on the chrome.

The electric PS bolted to the column on most econocars is junk... cars wander so much and very little dead zone. The only two cars I drove with electric ps (at the rack) were the NSX and S2000. I would like hydraulic systems to stay.

Thanks for clarifying. Unfortunately I have a terrible memory for details but I did read references to Mercedes motor design and Nissan in the past 8 years. In fact it stirred me in to searching for a few pictures of Merc motors from the 60's and I noted many similarities. (such as the valve train and timing chain and general motor layout in the photo above..even the spring clips on the rockers). I will keep my eye out for more substantial references and report back when I come across them.

Please correct me: I had read that Nissan had licenses from Mercedes for the initial design process they used and from SU for the initial carbs.

OK well the next step would be to check the joints at the steering knuckles, the rack tensioner, the ball joints and the bearings at the top of each front strut. Lift the front wheels off the ground and start checking. This is an easy first check: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/steering/racktension/

Brian, I think that if you do it and post some high quality vids on youtube, it could become a very popular reference for most car enthusiasts.... especially those with German I6's as the Z motor is a Merc descendant. Bring it to the 2013 ZCCA event too! I saw the old ford cutaway vid and wished the quality was better with more close-ups. but as mentioned above, hitting the crank with an electric motor and a cutaway would be easier (especially for shows inside).... heck cut away a manual transmission for greater observations and drive the whole thing from the drive shaft spline or crank nose. Just grease the parts that rub should be fine for room temp slow-mo demos... no need for fluids. Some of those fluorescent plug wire inserts to enhance the firing would also be nice.

Jon, For Norm it matters, for most of us non-racers we just have to push the pedal down an extra 1mm to get that 5HP when required

I used a precision rubber seal from the full weather kit that MSA sells. It was very nice. You may be able to register the distances from the cowl screw holes in this photo.

Common problems with these symptoms are: Battery weak from not charging. Check the battery voltage ~ 1 hr or more after your last attempt to start or drive.: - 12.0V is fully depleted - 12.8V is fully charged (Yes the battery range is only 0.8V) - If you get the car going then check the battery voltage (you are now measuring the voltage applied to the battery to charge itand it should range from 13.5V to 14.5V) Faulty Alternator and voltage regulator (last step above) If the above quick checks are ok then the problem may be the wiring to the starter and ignition key switch. To resolve the quick and dirty way: clean all electrical connections from battery to starter and ground as well as from starter solenoid as well as the ignition connections behind the key switch. Consulting a schematic and factory service manual will help with chasing the wires (both available on line). Sometimes the solenoid in the started simply wears out as well as the ignition switch behind the key. These would have to be refreshed or replaced.

All Z's I have seen in Europe via photos have been superb! I assume you will do the same. Welcome.

It is a 100% manual steering system with no power assist. Pumping tires to the proper or even higher pressure helps. You can also get a bigger steering wheel to give more mechanical advantage. Narrower front tires can also reduce the required strength. Finally you can buy new electrical power steering systems or cobble in a fluid based power steering rack from a Subaru.

Pull the hose off the fuel rail at the return line's connection. I believe the rails fitting has a cap/plug stopped down by a small hole drilled in it.

Could be fuel delivery problem. What is fuel pressure? You can try pinching off the return fuel line for a quick and dirty test to see if it makes a difference. I also had a points car that went weaker at high RPM's and this seemed like a fuel issue. After checking everything it turned out to be the distributor, however your checks above seem to have ruled that out.

You can rebuild the pump. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?33334-Rebuild-a-240Z-mechanical-fuel-pump Maybe get a used one and take the best parts from both. I took one apart years ago and I believe the spring and the check valve are part of the pressure regulation. Also check to ensure that your fuel system has a small orifice on the return.

K&N make some but they don't look right. Check dia too: EBAY in NJ http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-N-Stub-Stack-85-5039-/310221606530?hash=item483aa60e82&item=310221606530&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_2229wt_1140 It seems that UK is where to get the better shaped ones. (Or Brit Car Enthusiast / Vendor http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?42,544271) I would recommend taking a carb and photo to a machine shop and have them make two on lathes.

Usually it is the heat shield under the intake. Rev the motor by hand slowly until you hit the rpm where the part vibrates Use your ears to find where the noise is coming from Grab the noise part with your gloved hand if safe to do (nothing will burn or grab your hand/sleeve).

Now you tell me

If you are referring to the smaller hardware on the hanging plates and U clamps or the differential/control arm cross member that hold the control arms: Take another out then go to hardware store (in another car) or order from nissan Apart from the big beastie in the photo above, I think most are M8 and M10... not sure of thread... usually 1.25 but could be 1.5 so buy both threads if at a hardware store.

Do you have a bent needle in a carb that sticks as it rises? If idle is ok and WOT is OK then the only transitional factors are: 1. rate at which carb piston rises - too fast and you go lean for a bit - sticking and you go lean for a bit 2. fuel delivery - weak pump or low default level ... but this seems unlikely if you have power back at WOT 3. Funky timing - but you checked it ok

Cut away 4to6 and run on 1to3. You will have to weld up some baffles for water and oil.

I'm in Boca now planning to crash it but I may not make it due to business... I'll try. Brought a couple of AltanticZ hats too. I should be able to drop them off with someone before Thursday. PM Me.

Read this stuff: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?43229-SU-Mod-(lifted-from-the-net)