240260280z

check this:http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?17999-73-Z-door-latch-bushing-thickness

For your reference: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

NICE! Young Green Grasshopper: I would recommend trying to use clear vinyl tubing or layers of heat shrink on all of the push rods in the door mechanisms as they rattle. Don't forget to glue a rubber pad at the bottom inside of the door where the window will hit at full drop. Refreshing the grommet in the inner door lever is nice to do as well as installing a bumper for the tip. Finally, a rubber layer surrounding the first bump in the door's latching mechanism is supposed to help closing... search this one. I have not tried it yet.

Well add your green to the mix and we got the spectrum covered! I love your restoration! Perfection!

The window does not rattle as much. I can't comment on wind noise as I never drove the car before or after I will have that privilege in the spring.

Here is an ingenious method from: http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/index.htm Remove the dome and main piston from each carb so you can look down the tip of both fuel nozzles. Screw each mixture nut exactly 10 turns down from fully up. Each full turn drops the nozzle tip 1 mm, so 10 turns puts the tip of the fuel nozzle 10 mm (1cm) down....which happens to be the 23mm float bowl level. Then look down the tip of each fuel nozzle and adjust each float to set the gas level at the fuel nozzle tip.

Unfortunately replacing the fuzzy trim is not a quick job like the rest of the weather stripping. The fuzzy window trim is actually a metal strip with a ribbon of fuzzy material contained within it to make an assembly.This was then stapled to the door panel's top metal section using an industrial stapler. Here you can see most of the fuzz removed except at the rusty old staples. Close-up shot of a staple Details of the fastening. Fuzz removed and staple exposed. I used cutters to remove the staples... not a fun job but not too difficult. There are many ways to fasten the new fuzzy trim assembly: - industrial stapler - air powered nail gun/stapler - glue - paperclips through the old staple holes (requires aligning and drilling matching holes in new assembly) - rivets - 2 way tape I decided on rivets: 1 placed in the middle, one placed at each end and one placed between middle and each end (5 in total). I used 1/8" aluminum rivets. (The same that I used for the VIN boiler plates at the door frame and engine compartment). The first step was to align the new fuzzy trim assembly where the old was. The trim I purchased from Black Dragon had a chrome and black edge. I decided on the chrome to be up. Once aligned, hold the trim assembly in place and drill a 1/8" hole through it and through the metal door panel. Drill only one hole for now in the middle of the door. Insert the rivet. Fasten. Then repeat working from the centre out to the edges. Finished.... and you can't see the rivets. The cat got bored. Now that I am posting this tech tip, an idea has come to mind that is too late for me: You may wish to paint/sharpie marker the rivet heads black. Cross section detail and you can see the alternate black edge.

Found a better photo

Here is a photo of the Dollar store anti slip stuff. I guess it is used to line cutlery drawers from the label. It is just chucked into the car in this photo so please "ignore the mess".

Here are some photos of work I did in October to improve the cabin environment. There are many ways to tackle this, here is my first attempt: I used a product from the home insulation/HVAC insulation industry. It is simply a bubble wrap material with aluminum foil on each side. I measured the target area then cut it into basic shapes.I secured it together using a wide red vinyl tape that I found in a local hardware store for convenience. Since the vinyl interior trim will cover this material, you do not have to worry too much about aesthetics, however it should not be lumpy, lack symmetry and holes for seat belt anchors, storage doors, centre console etc. should be left uncovered. I decided to use the bubble foil as it will never stink like the old jute and also because it will not be in high loading areas (which could pop the bubbles).I do think some of the bubbles may degrade over time but the foil and plastic in between will still insulate and reduce noise. The same areas could also be covered with closed cell foam to accomplish the same effect however the bubble foil is easier and faster to work with. You can also see Peel and Seal on the floors and on the bulk head behind the seat area.I also applied it to the tunnel but I can find photos (sorry) Here is the driver floor area. The firewall insulator is custom made from closed cell foam (against metal) and a layer of a rubberized, fabric backed tough material (facing the cabin). There is a fair bit of Peel and Seal sealed under the floor foil. I used a thin layer of red (pinky-red in photo) closed cell crafting foam in the foot pedal area to retain the firmness of heels on the floor as well as to minimize the top layer of carpet bunching and to not-use bubbles that can burst in this high load area. Red vinyl tape holds it all together. I always found that the exhaust and transmission radiated a lot of heat into the cabin through the tunnel so hopefully the foil will help reduce this problem. All of the insulation is completed. Note the Peel and Seal on the door. Here is a shot of the riser and seat area. Note the holes for the belt anchors and storage doors as well as Peal and Seal on the wheel arches. Here you can see how the holes along the rocker panel and kick panel are tape-sealed with Tyvek tape. hmmm I am now thinking that I should seal the firewall insulation to the kick panel to keep any potential leaks from going under the bubbles. (Heater core, vent, blower intake, cowl drain) More sealing of the holes below the quarter window and also adding insulation over the wheel arch. Here is a shot of a little later on. The vinyl trim is glued in place and it finishes nicely against the "bubble floor" Note. to complete the finish (after this photo), I used aluminum foil tape to seal the black vinyl against the bubble foil. This will contain any spills/leaks. I also found that the carpet slid on the foil when adjusting the seat so I used a rubber material used as place mats on ships to stop dishes from sliding off tables. It was red and I got it at a local Dollar store. So there are many layers to the floor: - steel - nissan bitumen dampening - peel and seal dampening - bubble foil - rubber antislip - carpet Test fit of carpet... all black at seams. Not so great behind and under seats. The carpet does not cover very well. I ended up putting a layer of the black rubberized fabric (used in firewall insulator) under the seat and storage area.

Here are some details on how I attacked the fume leaks and noise: 1. For sealing obvious holes,I used a commonly available (tough as hell) tape from the housing industry that is used to fasten and seal vapor barrier membranes on the inside and outside of homes. It is designed to stick from -40C to +40C and is very tough to tear or stretch. In Canada we often refer to it as Tyvek tape however, it is manufactured by a company called Tuck and it can be used to secure an extrenal permeable membrane house wrap made by Dupont called Tyvek (I believe Dupont may also make the same tape but I have only seen the Tuck brand). I think by us calling it code-name Tyvek tape,it stays as "our little secret" (just like Robertson screws) thus making Canada a little more exciting place to be Be thankful that I am now a partial USA resident and sharing this with you. Digression: During the door sealing,I decided that sealing all of the holes with Tyvek tape was better than the conventional method of caulking and vapor barrier poly, so I just used the tape. Canadian Taxes Working Supplier: Tyvek Tape 2. For larger areas prone to fumes, (rear tail light areas and rear quarter panel areas, I used a heavy household vapor barrier and sealed the perimeter with tyvek tape. 3. For noise reduction, I strategically placed Peel and Seal patches, as well as used double foil sided bubble insulation and closed cell foam(not shown). In fact, I cut a large piece of 1/2" thick closed cell foam to cover the rear deck. I used the foil bubbles (as seen in the photo below) for the floors and wheel well arch. Important Tips: For reducing the smell of peel and seal in the cabin, I experimented and found that simply covering the perimeter of each piece with foil tape or tyvek tape did the trick. For sourcing closed cell foam at reasonable prices, look in the camping/sports sections of stores for yoga,exercise mats, sleeping bag underlay and also anti-fatigue floor mats. I found large grey rolls of the stuff at walmart and pepboys for $20. If you are still reading and want another Canadian secret: Fortunately I can now buy this in USA too. Sadly I have not found a local supplier of Tunnock's Caramel Logs...yet.

Not a great photo of the other side of the door; however, you can see where I placed small pieces of peel and seal to further dampen vibrations. I found that placing it in the middle of larger spots and also wrapping around the edge of long openings helped a lot when doing the "tap" tests. I sealed the door so the smell of this will not enter the cabin. FYI I only used 2 rolls of peel and seal on the whole car as I only brought 2 into Canada from the USA and because I could not source it locally as it was all just paper-backed... however (for us Canucks) my brother recently found it (foil backer) at a new hardware store in my region called Rona.

Not easily unless you get a spare wiring harness to throw in its place as key (pun) signals go through it

Glad you got it working! Lots of photos and drawings here to help you even understand it better now that you have come this far! Congratulations. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?41940-Quick-and-dirty-SU-Tuning

For the breather on the valve cover top. You can shave it an fill (like you did to the balance tube) and drill a hole in the side of the valve cover next to the fire wall and run a tube from there back to an air filter to draw the poison from the motor at high rpms.

You don't need horns under the filters, short radius-ed plates will do quite well.

Source: Col. Joe Hauser http://www.datsun.org/fairlady/JoeCarbs.htm CARBURETORS Under SCCA rules for G Production, the Datsun 1600 was required to run a pair of Hitachi carbs. These were very similar to British SUs. In fact the needle valve from one would fit in the other. The SCCA rules allowed substantial modifications to the carbs as long as the bore was not enlarged at the butterfly valve. So over the years we made the following modifications:- Rounded the front of the piston Removed the step at the jet Angled the rear of the jet to help draw fuel mixture Increased the diameter of the bore to a point just in front of the throttle plate (3/32") Thinned the throttle shaft and butterflies Used very light springs on top of the pistons, or no springs at all Tuned the intakes with velocity stacks to suit the RPM range of the engine Set carb float levels slightly higher than stock so no starvation at high RPM. I used brass floats. The most important and difficult part was finding the right needle end jet combination. My final solution was boring the stock jet larger to .095 and finding a needle that would provide a good fuel air mixture over the rev range I was using. My final solution was to customize the needle on the dyno and at the track by chucking the needle in an electric drill and dressing it down to suit. Not very scientific but it worked. I also matched the carburetor ports to the intake manifold ports. After some trial and error I found that by leaving the carb ports slightly smaller than the intake manifold that it was as good or better than matching and took less work. (This is the reversion factor). The intake manifold was matched to the head in the same way. The intake manifold was enlarged to properly match the carburetor and the head ports. The hole in the balance tube was enlarged to 9/16". This smoothed the power out put and improved the idle. HEADERS The opposite of intake is exhaust, if you get it in efficiently you must get it out efficiently. There were no good headers available for the 1600 when I started racing so I was forced to make one. Out came all the books I could find on building a good header. So I made two headers, both 4 in to one. One was made from 1½" exhaust tubing and one from 1 3/4" tubing. Both were made so that I could extend or shorten the tubes to find the best length of the pipes. Tubes were made as close as possible to the same length and after much dyno and track testing we found that the 1½" tubing about 29½" long, dumped into a 2½" pipe, gave us the best all around power output. The 2½" pipe was extended to the rear of the car with a megaphone on the end. However when SCCA decreed the 104db sound requirement the megaphone had to be removed. The power loss was minimal if any. I loved the sound of that megaphone. Col. Joe Hauser

Good observation.The owner never liked all the badges and had them removed in the mid 70's

A friend from Malaysia who sent me a photo of his cars in the 80's:

Pull off the filter enclosure. Reach into each carb with your finger. Lift an drop each piston. Do they move with the same resistance and drop the same (location at bottom of drop and "clunk" sound) Under each carb is a knurled knob. Turn it all the way up until it stops then turn it back down two and a half turns. Check that the mechanism which the chokes lift and drop (called the jet), can move freely. If not then remove each jet and clean it.

Looks great!

Going through a post on 127 and found this that may interest some: Re: reviving 127 « Reply #18 on: 2006-10-15, 11:46:14 » Thought I'd join in. While restoring #48, I actually met an ex Nissan (Datsun) plant worker who moved to Canada years ago and was living in Victoria at the time. He was on the floor in the early seventies and confirmed the stories on how cars that were noted to have a defect would get pushed aside for rectification at a later date. There were no sophisticated tracking system in place to later find out what happened to a certain car either. The late sixties/early seventies were extremely hectic as he recalled and said the priority was getting cars out the door to the waiting masses in NA. I believe mine was almost completely assembled when it was put aside for a few months as it has all the early features of a '69 car as well as a block number that puts it in line with the other cars produced in late Oct early Nov. Another club member from out West also had an anomaly model with VIN #300 and a production date of 02/70, go figure!

btw that vin number will most likely be dec 69 or Jan 70 according to the vin reg listings here: http://www.zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/classic.htm. The earliest I owned was VIN 2904 which was Jan 70. A friend in our club had 48 and another has 127.