240260280z

I got the vin over the phone. Moonpup, Can you email them, request more photos then send them to me via PM? Thanks!

I did this thankless job in August on rotten, rusty lines and fasteners. I replaces all lines with new and re-used the old rubber and brackets I wire brushed all of the brackets, ospho, etching primer then gloss black. I retapped some of the holes to larger (either m3to m4 or m4 to m5) where required. I used all new ss hardware to replace the rotten stuff and lotsof anti-seize for when the next guy does this again in 40 years. For the rubber; I just wire brushed with a brass brush and washed. I soaked the rubber with crusted rust in ospho then wire brushed and repeated.

I talked to them 2 weeks ago and requested more photos but no response. My buddy also called and asked for photos but none sent.... seems like you gotta be there.... I guess Arne would be da man.

you can always take it to a locksmith who gives a damn and can refresh your lock and cut new keys. In the interim, spray a lot of PB blaster into the lock to flush and turn it for a few min then spray some lithium grease in it.

http://jdm-car-parts.com/special-tip/ski-rack-on-240z-260z-280z/

One for the records: http://www.princessauto.com/all-seasons/farm/transfer-pumps/12vdc/8144354-12v-in-line-fuel-pump

I removed two when working on 2000Acura TL power steering hose.... so a junkyard may be best. To make look new: You can re-plate with caswell copy cad or eastwood zinc/tin kits

Do the carbs look like this: or like this:

Thanks Mike, will do, I just stuck them with out securing yet in so it should be easy to swap. I just matched the original config.... however the seat belt hooks were also on that side? No one noticed yet but I also have the control arm hangers and corresponding cross member on in reverse

I have two Z's with missing driver door springs and have seen a few others with the same problem. I discovered this $7 tool and hope to use it to insert a new spring with the hinge on the car.

His site mentions that he trained in Italy initially to gain the metal crafting skills then went on from there. A great number of bicycle master builders had been hammering out great works too... along with furniture makers...Italy seems like it was a great choice for apprenticing to become an such an artisan. His site even alludes to gaining Carroll Shelby's respect of his aluminum skills. His whole site is a fabulous read...especially with his photos and commentary.

Looks like I have to flip the sway bar... murphy!

http://www.evaporust.ca/photos/

http://www.studiotimecapsule.com/aluminum_datsun_240z

I read that putting flecks on the floor when installing some epoxy garage floor paints often makes it difficult when finding dropped nuts and bolts .

Good ending to this thread Way to go.

If you can get hoses on the ends of the core, then pressurize,seal and monitor pressure over time (like a leak down test),then you can do in situ. Other methods are to seal one end, coat core with soapy water, pressurize, then look for bubbles or to immerse core in water, seal one end, pressurize, and look for bubbles, or to fill tank with water and UV dye, pressurize, then use UZ light to look for leaks.

$300 for floors and $170 for the rails: http://datsunzparts.com/NewParts/summary.htm http://baddogparts.com/

Had to get z out of brother's garage for winter. Relocated to storage facility

Red wire goes into the harness. I wrapped the red tape (not factory or PO) around it to hold the old black tape that I unwound to check and see that the red wire was factory.

I will put a check mark by both of those options Jim.