240260280z

I had some problems in the past but I would like to report that my last experience was excellent. I ordered a weather stripping kit 2 years ago and just installed it. The kit was missing one seal (outer hatch top seal) that I only noticed a few weeks ago. I called them up and they sent me one. FIRST CLASS.

Thanks! The green one is accounted for and is one of two that I have connected. The other is the door& Room which are two wires tied together that go to the door switch.

Excellent idea... the flashes (turn and 4way) on this Z work intermittently so they need to be replaced or refreshed..

Thanks Steve, The red wire on mine goes back to the body harness that feed the rear of the car so it seems to be a different wire.

Here is a layman's overview of the EFI system to help you get a foundation of what you are dealing with. It is not really that complicated when you break it apart: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/overview.html

3000 rpm "rev limit" is often caused by the throttle velocity switch on the side of the throttle body. Usually it has water in it that shorts connections OR the wiring to it has a short. A quick check to see if it is working is to simply unplug it and see if you get past 3000 rpm. Here is a reference. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html The bad clip mechanism on 280z's is the cause of many fuel injection problems. Usually soldering newer connections with better clips (from a junkyard acr) is a good upgrade. To test the injector signal, simply plug a 12V light into the pins and see if it lights when the car is running. You can also swap the connectors between adjacent injectors to see if the problem moves. You can also listen to each injector with a long screw driver on it and pressing the other end against your ear. All should sound the same and have a metal click. You can listen then unplug and plug in the connector to hear the click start and stop. Some info here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/connectors/index.html http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/index.html

I am wondering if anyone every refreshed a 4 way flasher or blinker "can" or if anyone can post as link to online photos of the "guts" of either. Thanks,

Cool thanks! I will get one. I always wanted one. I never knew the price dropped so much. I remember looking at one in the late 80's called the Fox and Hound. It was ~ 200 to 300 if I recall correctly... heck I spent $80 on a weidmeuller co-ax cable stripping termination tool now a similar is $10 at radio shack. In subsea telecom we put a 5Hz to 150Hz AC "tone" on the cable for ROV's and sometimes divers to detect under the ocean floor... good to about 750km at 10Hz then the capacitance has eaten the signal.

Thanks. I'll take a photo today. The harness is now in the car and difficult to trace.

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Yup that is it Thanks! What about the solo red wire? I thought it was a PO addition but I dug into the harness and it was dressed in at the factory.

I re-checked. One is red with blue stripe and the other is black.

Thanks Steve, It is a 71 240z. They are at the head of the harness that goes to the back of the car. This location is in the passenger kick panel area near the top door hinge. Here is all the FSM shows (I added the red and the black and red paired):

Looks mean... in a good way.

I seem to have all connections made to the body harness and all electrics seem to work in the back: - passenger door switch - room lamp - all tail lights/turn/rev/4way flashers (except brake light which I will chase down today) - license lamp - marker lights - speaker - power antenna - defrost - fuel sender So I am wondering what the 3 unused wires in the body harness do? One is red and seems to be a loner with a long-ago broken off connector The other two (which seem to be paired) have the bullet connectors (one is black and the other is red or red with a black stripe..I forget exactly). The only two single wire connectors that I connected to the body harness were a green (bullet) and also the one from the pass. door switch (blade).

Hi Jerry, Some useful info here: http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsd1.asp

got it http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/18257-what-was-originally-in-the-1970-240z-toolbins/#entry148779

Yeah it is a series 1 . There are fittings in the floor behind the passenger seat for the wire assembly and I think for the belt-thingy and maybe even the jack and chocks. I just would like to see how it is supposed to be tied down to these fittings correctly. This shows where the wire A frame part goes... but what about the belt and bag?

Jan 71 240z I am ready to put the tools back. Does anyone have a description or photo of what goes where and how? Here is a stock photo of the parts borrowed from this web site. It seems to be missing a bag and chock.... and what does the rubber belt device hold down. I ensured all of the welded fittings behind the passenger seat remained exposed.

Thanks again! Now that I am moving forward and throw the dash in.

Thanks...that will work. I am guessing the 30A fused sheathed blue is the blower and the 20A fused non-sheathed is the defrost. Now to throw that dash in. Philip