240260280z

Down to the wire (pun). So far I have figured out where all wires go from the wiring diagrams, colour coding, fsm drawings and support from this forum (thanks). I am down to 3 that I am not 100% positive about. The dash harness to the fuse box has 2 blue wires with in-line fuses and one black wire. All are heavier gauge: 1) One of the fuse holders is toasted looking. It also exits lower in the harness and it also has a black protective sheath around it. Am I correct to assume that it goes to the blower motor harness or defrost? 2) The other blue wire comes out ~ 3" higher in the harness (near the taped back fuel pump connector) but I am not sure what it does? 3) Finally, where does the hefty black wire (with protective sheath) go?

Just reading this thread now as I am seeking help with the connections in the area. I believe the orphan connector in the blower harness is for factory AC. My supposition is based on the drawing on page 26 of the 71 FSM document: "S30 Supplement Manual" . On page 27 it mentions that item 54 (L) is power for AC coming from the same harness so I assume that the 3 pin connector is also some sort of control leads for the AC unit or related louvers,etc.

this manual has excellent section on dash removal http://www.xenons30.com/files/1971%20FSM%20Supplement.pdf

Pallnet is first class and saves the headache and risk of errors when learning on your first rail. Plan to drill and cut two. If you want to improve on the design, source extruded aluminum with two internal passages for send and return and integrate an fpr in one end. You can also use the stock rail, cut it and bubble flare the ends or braze barbs on the ends: It will look like this:

Jan 71 240z with e31 and same problem... the piston is also peppered with holes and much lighter. New head and pistons....

I was inspired by Arne's photos so I lubed the mechanical clock. When trying to access the bushing on the back of the motor, I removed the wrong screw under the white loctite stuff and disconnected the two whisker contacts and the insulator that holds them. Long story short, I completely removed the motor, removed the pos and neg contacts, removed the insulator, carefully placed the insulator in place, placed the whiskers back into their sockets (the trick is to keep the whiskers out toward the outer perimeter of the casing as much as possible while inserting until you seat the screw that holds it. This screw and connection fit carefully into the plastic insulator so align carefully). It took me 3 tries to get it right.

This vid shows you how it works...and he hits a limit and inbalance: Here is my fav: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?41940-Quick-and-dirty-SU-Tuning

The rods to the door locks rattle when the door closes. I think I will run some plastic washer hose over the rods to absorb the banging. Any other suggestions?

Jan 9 71 is the on the dash and 01/71 is on the door plate and 01-71 is fuel pump date so it is the cusp.

I am doing a jan 71 now and will try to blueprint the wiring but i am now pressed for time and may not do as much as I would like. I'll post data next week.

http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/parts/72/nissan/240z/lift_struts/rear_hatch_damper.html?3593=122903 Mfgr: Stabilus Part Number SG 225005

Similar:

I am out numbered by good friends. I must concede. The resto is someone else's cars so I will ask the history (He was original owner so he should know). It was interesting to see the two holes in the yellow pic above. This car has no holes due to body work so I will have to re-drill. The fact that all pics I googled have only one bracket that goes deep to the wing nut; but the 73 yellow photo above seems like the correct drilling for the holes, I see how it should work but I am confused.

I bought a full kit from Motorsport Auto.Here is their page of products: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SWR01 You can also buy from BlackDragon Auto (be sure to request their papre catalogue.... it is great to have): http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/t.aspx?Page=12 (click "next" and previous to go through the catalogue on line).

Saw a Z1 in Paris in 94 or 95 Cool at the time but now looks like a TR-7

Could have been hung up. Also there is an adjustment screw on the back of the fuel gauge that (if remember correctly) controls the radial distance between the indicator needle and the bimetal strip for calibration. I think I will have to test bench (v) and photo doc(v) the system once and for all as this seems to be one of those "black magic"areas when in fact it is EZ PZ.

The voltage flickering is normal. It is actually heating a piece of bimetal in the dash gauge. When the metal heats, it moves and brakes the electrical contact thus the voltage is 13V when no contact and 0V when contacted. I believe when the resistance is low (10 ohms at full), every time the bimetal cools and makes the circuit, a bigger current flows thus heating it very quickly and moving it further. When the resistance is high 80 or 90 ohms, every time the bimetal cools and makes the circuit, a smaller current flows thus heating it very slowly and not as much and moving it less far. Very analogue and cooldesign. The common problem maybe that your wiper wiping on a warn out part. Bend it a little.

Stock units I have seen only have a thin bracket with one bolt hole. This has two. Here is a stock:

Nah, you are not special: we all were there too.

I found the best way to install was to pull the wheel off and play with box end wrenches and extensions while rotating the shaft so that I could get a wrench on the nuts. At certain places in the rotation, it is easier to turn some of the nuts. Actually I am about to install the same shafts and may find a better way than how I did it 8 years ago when I started wrenching. Click

Hmmm I just worked on a colleagues 2003 BMW 330. Internal fabric on A pillars and B pillars coming off, window seals falling off, water pump and belts failed, front caliper seized.... buy a BMW and I guarantee you will be wrenching I'd say get a Ferrari 250 GTO kit or a factory five kit. Good investment, prices are only going up: Here is a nice page: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/18-factory-five-cars-sale-wanted-sponsored-intercity-lines/

So what can replace a z? Z4?

It could be upside down too. I believe the yellow cabled +pos connection (with stand-off) should be on the top at 12 o-clock.

yup:

I think they used one in Mythbusters. We had a club car in a movie about a football player who becomes paralyzed: