240260280z

I am a "Canadian Idiot" as I tagged mine with the snow blower.

I want your garage My 71 resto has the same loose fitting. I though the powder coating process did it. I plan to hit the joint with seal-all then build up over it with jb-weld for strength. You can braze it yourself with a mapp tourch and lincoln rod from Lowes/homedepot (of course the tank will have to be flushed first to get rid of any vapor. For the evap hoses, just plumb everything in except the line to the front so that you have some expansion system and vapors won't push out of your gas cap relief on hot days.

My car felt "snakey" when I first got it. Rear right strut was shot. Felt like the rear wanted to come around all the time.

Yup... I am just modelling the motor for now... it will eventually expand to model carb piston height and needle taper at RPM along with real fuel flow measurements. One of the areas I want to explore is when should the carb piston hit the roof and go from CV to non-CV mode. This will in turn lead to spring exploration and piston mass exploration.

If you keep your car in a garage, the evap tank helps to keep fumes contained and not in your garage.

Checked and fixed. I had a typo in a metric conversion. At 5600 for 164hp I estimate a Ve of 1.08 (8% over filling of chamber) which seems reasonable. BIG THANKS!

Thanks Phred, It is great to get data! Unfortunately I must have an error in my calculator as I need a Ve of 1.5 to get 164hp at 5600rpm... I'll double check. I am amusing RPM 5600 Vol 2.4l Fuel Air Ratio 12.6:1 BSFC 0.56 Ve tweaked to match HP to real world Philip

The HD Foam seems to be the ticket. THANKS JIM! The rubber outer surface and the high density foam backing bonded very well (better than the foam board). IFor the record, I used Loctite Spray Adhesive 200. The flexibility of this combination seems to be very much like the original. I'll put a layer of foil on the back as per Jim's suggestion. Here is a detail of how well the outer rubber/fuzzy layer has bonded to the grey foam.

I will be doing in in a couple of weeks and will photo document then.

Thanks! I look forward to your data. Yes I mis-wrote max/min..... and in re-reading I also wrote "burning of exactly 2.4 litres of fuel" you know what I meant. I wish the edit time limit was extended to 1 month as 1 hr is not enough for my mistakes to be corrected.

BSFC is rate of fuel consumption divided by power made. It varies with rpm. The theory states it is supposed to be peak at maximum torque. For a 4 cycle motor, it is supposed to be ~ 0.37 to 0.45 pounds of "standardized" gasoline per hour per horse power (according to wiki). My problem is that for my HP calculation for an L24 @ 5600, I need to set Ve at 1 (complete filling and burning of exactly 2.4 litres of fuel) and a BSFC of 0.40. 0.40 seems to fit between the 0.37 to 0.45 but I have checked other peoples calculations on line and they typically use 0.50 to 0.55 for BSFC. As well if the L24 is 0.4 at 5,600rpm then it should be even better at max torque (4,400rpm).... which "feels" a little optimistic to me at this point in my model development. I am OK with the 0.40 as per the Wiki range, but I need a sanity check

First one off the line using foam board: Replicated: Notes: 1. Fasteners to be installed next week. 2. Smaller hole sizes in more accurate locations were used to improve insulating & sound proofing. Original:

I will do when ready. It is only 1/2 done. Should be a cool tool once finished.

Good idea! Thanks Steve!

Now that I have more accurate measurements, I am making two variants of the firewall insulation panel: 1. Foam board (as per Dan's excellent recommendation above; BIG THANKS DAN!) with the jute-backed oil-proof fabric glued to the front. 2. High density foam with the jute-backed oil-proof fabric glued to the front. I think both will work well. The foam board is firmer and fits well (when I tested the template), however the high density foam seems closer in thickness compared to the original and it will soundproof and insulate better. I also sourced correct size nickle snaps that I will secure with ss hardware to replicate the floor mat snaps on the original. Here is the freshly cut foam board being glued to the fabric that is very similar to the original. There is a small square of the high density foam being test glued on the upper right to see if the glue eats it. Here is the original template and the high density foam cut out along with scraps.

These posts should hold most of the info you need http://forums.ctzcc.com/viewtopic.php?p=21113&sid=15533ae7e45c3abb49a047c9104209de http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?10246-no-tach-with-crane-ign.

I tried the "peel and seal" aluminum tape with asphalt roofing product to reduce noise in my S2000 trunk. It was easy to install and worked great at reducing noise but the tar-like smell still persists. I regret doing it however I will not peel it off as it will exposed more stinky stuff. The smell has decreased but not as fast as some have claimed and not as much as some have claimed. I will give it a year and see what happens. However, as it dampens great, I want to use it to dampen the panels on my 71 240z resto. I am thinking that I may be able to paint some substance over (like Nissan did on the floor pan asphalt) it to effectively seal the smell in. Any recommendations for a paint-able sealant? Thanks

Made a pitot tube out of aluminum tubes. It will be a probe for flow tests. Also continued fabrication of firewall interior panels.

Thanks, I am beginning to think the gasket may be for the needle valve as the carb kit had two bags, one had nearly all the parts and a small second bag had a needle valve and a fibre gasket. I am guessing that the two bags were from different mfgr's and two gaskets were provided for the needle valve... but I never saw an aluminum needle valve gasket as it will change the fuel height. I got the kits at Weber Carb Direct so I'll take your advice and ring them. The main body gaskets fit fine but I had to remove the floats before installing. There were actually a few different gaskets in the kit for different body castings/machinings.

When the car dies, does the tach drop quickly ahead of the rpms? Try upgrading to a 280zx distributor/ignition if it turns out to be your ignition box.

Looking for BSFC to improve a calculation's accuracy. Any data or estimates is most welcome. Right now I am using 0.4 at 5600 but I feel it may be too low.

OR it could be a broken spring in the needle assembly Read this great write up: http://www.classictiger.com/techtips/motach.html

This is pretty much an educated guess: I think the 100uF cap in the circuit could be kaput and the diode/cap "tank circuit" is not working. Transients (back emf) on the tach's anemeter are not dampened correctly when going from higher rpm to lower rpm during a gear change.

Datsun 1200 tach Datsun 1200 tach Datsun 240z