240260280z

0.020 to 0.072 is mm. Is your 0.152 measurement in mm? If so then you have ~ twice the maximum clearance which means more oil will leak out than specified and the crank can move more than specified.

yes the clutch and brake systems use same fluid (dot3 brake fluid)

I'm hitting an old thread.. sorry: I loaned my R190 to ZCCNE for their club racer. (I actually have never seen the differential yet) However it needs new seals. Any of you on this thread know where to source them?

Wow that is beautiful.. Maybe its just the red and white getting to my Canadian heart.

I just saw flexible fans in a Jeg's catalogue. They seem to deform at higher RPMS's as a mechanical compensation. I was thinking that this would be a great solution to do away with the failure prone fan clutches ? Has anyone tried these beasties? http://www.jegs.com/c/Fans_Mechanical-Flex-Fans/10115/10002/-1

Why did Nissan fold the sequence of intake and exhaust ports in the centre of the head rather than doing a consistent pattern from cylinder 1 to 6: i.e: E1I1 I2E2 I3E3 | E4I4 E5I5 I6E6 rather than E1I1 E2I2 E3I3 | E4I4 E5I5 E6I6 Having E3&E4 side-by-side in the middle does not seem like a good thermal geometry. As well, consistent port and chamber geometry and intake runner and exhaust runner spacing has been sacrificed... I am curious as to why?

The outer black layer is a thick rubbery-paper-like material. Sort of like an asphalt roofing shingle. The back is that horse-hair/jute stuff.

Ideally a rubbery plastic material will be great. Something that is black or can be painted.

My good buddy and I buy Z's and ship to Canada. Put some pictures up and lets see what you have

http://www.racingsportscars.com/type/archive/Datsun/240Z.html

Nice supplier in the UK I just found online: [url=http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-334-chrome-strips.aspx]http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-334-chrome-strips.aspx

I have the moldy, torn, original Jan 71 240z firewall insulator that I wish to transcribe to a new material. Can anyone recommend a material to use? I plan to put peel-and-seal on the fire wall along with bubble foil for sound deadening and thermal insulation so the new material does not have to insulate. Maybe even just a semi-hard material to replicate the carboard/masonite part of the insulator will suffice. I need some ideas before I hit the material/fabric/building supply stores Thanks as always!

My S-2000 requires a high temperature urea-based grease.... but it revs to 9000rpm. Is there any special grease required for the Z throw-out bearing or will synth wheel bearing grease work fine?

I have read that hoses can age or clog and act as 1-way valves causing similar symptoms.

You can try redline mtl transmission fluid. That can help some problems however something could be worn or loose in the transmission.

As grantf mentioned, it looks as though the retaining clips were not installed by the shop or they were not installed properly? There is no reason for all caps to fly off otherwise. You are lucky they didn't change your propeller/drive shaft or wheels. This is unfortunately why it is best to roll up your sleeves, buy the tools, and do your own work. You can not trust most mechanics these days.

Rear differential installed. Fuel, evap, brake lines in tunnel finally fit and refreshed clips with ss hardware installed. E Brake and rear shoes adjusted and completed. - rod from handle to intermediary fixture was SAE rather than metric. Lots of old rusty hardware. Had to tap new metric ss captive nuts to fit. Gas tank hoses to fuel send/return installed Protective plate that blocks wheel debris from hitting fuel neck installed. Gas door hardware installed. Clutch fork boot installed. Getting ready for transmission and propeller shaft then engine then interior Flying to NJ with SU carbs for rebuild over next 3 weeks.

Note: The starter is grounded to the transmission and a large black wire connects the battery -neg terminal to the starter bolt at the transmission. A yellow wire from the starting circuit connects to the solenoid on top of the starter. A black wire from the battery +pos terminal connects to the contactor screw terminal on top of the starter. It would be wise to change this to a red cable (you can get them at the battery section of any auto parts store). A small fusible link wire is also connected to the +pos starter terminal. A ground wire from the -neg battery post also goes to the firewall near the battery. There should be a bolt on the firewall.

Check drum brakes and drive shafts (usually referred to as half-shafts). Also check strut housing and control arm hardware torques.

Hmm with past, current and upcoming defaults, everything will soon seem expensive as the economy flips.

John, got a 71 spook here on the Z I'm restoring... not mine though. If it was you could have it. I\ll finally be in Boston, Monday and Tuesday. Will you be around?

I just used dry ice on the thick floor dampening material in a 510 resto. It worked ok. The coincidence that the top video is of a 240z that is the same colour as the one I am restoring is only that. I wish I had that gear however Enjoy the Z picnic in NJ. I made the last meeting but am in Canada this weekend.

71 240z fuel tank with fitting sizes (not hose sizes) 71 240z evap tank with fitting sizes (not hose sizes) Rear left connection. I used 1/2" fuel hose and it worked very well. I obtained the hose from a truck supply shop. Finding fuel hose over 3/8" is difficult and as mentioned in a post above, only very low pressure (~400psi) hydraulic hose MAY work. Here is a view looking up at the vent line at the rear right top of the tank. As you can see the vent line points away from where the hose comes through the floor. This calls for a 180degree turn in very close quarters as the top of the tank is pressed up against the rear hatch's floor. There are many ways to make the 180degree turn. Here is mine: I used fuel resistant hose from the manifold vent hoses from a 280z EFI system. This one had a 90 degree bend and it fit on the 17mm / 5/8" fitting so I did not need 5/8" hose (which was a good thing as I could not source it). I used a PEX 90degree water hose brass fitting that I sourced from a hardware store to connect the EFI hose to a 1/2" fuel hose. Yes 1/2"! You can make it fit over the fittings on the gas tank and on the evap tank (heat from hairdryer or microwaves water helps as well as lithium grease). The EFI hose and the PEX gave me 180 degrees. For the tank straps, I used rubber that I sourced from a hardware store and automotive goop to secure it to the strap. This stuff was ~ 1/8" thick. The only other tip was to heat the filler pipe's bottom with a hair dryer to make tank installation easier. Soft rubber is important. I did not get a shot of the 3/4" hose that connects the evap tank to the filler pipe as my camera ran out of memory. I'll post it tomorrow. Again I used hose from an EFI manifold and it worked nicely.

No, I am not turning things around. You are very intelligent and experienced and knowledgeable. In fact, when I see that you post something, I eagerly read it and usually learn a lot. I also wish you would post more and share more of your knowledge. My comment was only because of your negative tone in your response. Both you and I and hopefully most know that absolute truth and accuracy is nearly an unattainable ideal so most articles and advice online can never stand the test of such high standards.